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11-27-2004, 06:22 PM
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#21
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,253
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I can see a good cross section of it, and that's what it looks like on mine too.
__________________
Stephanie
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11-27-2004, 10:25 PM
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#22
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Just a member
1978 28' Argosy 28
Lutz
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
So I'm thinking we have two problems still. Now that I know there's a big hole, I need to remove the univolt and fuse box out of the way (at least the univolt), and put in a patch, or a section. How do I determine how much I need to replace? I know I need to get back to good wood, but do I need to put in a piece big enough to span from the edge to the frame for support?
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Since this is all easily accessible it rally is not that hard. You need to get back to solid (non rotted) wood. Place a strip of plywood under the existing floor, that will be screwed thru the existing floor to hold it on the bottom making a ledge for the new ply to sit on. Then cut a new section to fit and install it. You may need belly pan access to get the bolts tightened. This would mean dropping a wrap, but not necessarily the center section. Of course if welding is needed this is the time. Also time to wear some more POR-15
This is the recommended method I have read in the Airstream shop manuals.
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
-------------------------
1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
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11-28-2004, 12:25 AM
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#23
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,253
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Well then, after much discussion, I think my plan of action will be to finish sealing the rear window in my project mustang, so it can sit out in the rain, freeing up the garage. Then I will be able to move the furniture from the Caravel into the garage where it will be safe and dry. I can then pull up the rest of the honeycomb vinyl and see if there's any other damage to repair, and figure out how to drop enough of the bellypan to see what needs to be welded.
My husband actually didn't freak out about the hole. He thought it didn't look like too big a job! Maybe he was just trying to keep me calm...
Anyway, I'll see if I can get the mustang finished this weekend so I can continue on with the Caravel.
Looks like the side benefit of all this work, aside from having a roadworthy trailer, will be getting new flooring in there I might upgrade the old univolt to a modern charging system at the same time. I always look for the bright side in these things!
__________________
Stephanie
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11-28-2004, 10:02 AM
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#24
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4 Rivet Member
1977 23' Safari
Hillsboro
, Oregon
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 348
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Well, at least it is what is considered the "off season" for camping. You will have plenty of time to get it fixed and will be happy with the repair.
__________________
Van
2009 F-350 FX4 Crewcab 4x4 6.4l
former '78 Argosy 20' Minuet owner
former '77 23' Safari owner
former 25' Fun Finder X-250BHS SOB owner
current 26' Komfort Trailblazer 262BSLE SOB owner
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11-29-2004, 05:33 PM
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#25
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,253
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Ok, I have gutted the interior. I removed the gaucho, the dinette, and the water lines from the front half of the trailer. I still need to remove the fuse box and the univolt. They are unplugged. Anything I should know about before I remove the wires from them so I can remove them as well?
I will need to get a tool to take up the old vinyl floor, it is glued down, and is very brittle. I have not been able to peel up any significant areas of the vinyl, except where the floor is damaged.
This is getting really scary...
__________________
Stephanie
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11-29-2004, 05:48 PM
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#26
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,491
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Yes, dont' forget to mark the wires.
Ken J
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
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11-29-2004, 05:49 PM
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#27
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
Ok, I have gutted the interior. I removed the gaucho, the dinette, and the water lines from the front half of the trailer. I still need to remove the fuse box and the univolt. They are unplugged. Anything I should know about before I remove the wires from them so I can remove them as well?
I will need to get a tool to take up the old vinyl floor, it is glued down, and is very brittle. I have not been able to peel up any significant areas of the vinyl, except where the floor is damaged.
This is getting really scary...
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Stef,
sounds like you are on your way. Take some clear dig pics of the wiring, just in case, and label everything before you take it apart. Much like a car-resto
A broad putty knife and rubber mallet might let you do fine vinyl removal.
If your flooring is asbestos tile, then be very careful. The stuff makes you very sick if you get it in you somehow. The Uni-Volt is quite heavy, don't be surprised. It feels llke it's made of solid lead.
Good Luck!
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11-29-2004, 06:31 PM
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#28
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,253
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Thanks for the warning, Uwe. I will wear a dust mask. It is old vinyl sheet flooring, installed after manufacture. I have only seen original tiles left in the bottom of the closets. But I will wear a dust mask anyway just because it is very dusty/dirty in there now. It's like I let all the dirt out!
The wide putty knife sounds like a good idea.
__________________
Stephanie
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11-29-2004, 07:24 PM
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#29
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Rivet Master
1959 26' Overlander
Putnam
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
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Of course you know this is going to turn into a Full Monty?
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11-29-2004, 07:37 PM
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#30
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,253
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Full Monty? No, I'm still in denial about that. But I'm thinking that maybe I should continue back and remove the fiberglass bathroom shell to see if there's any rot under there needs fixin'. Might as well get it all at once.
Ok, I got the Univolt out ok, but the fusebox is a nightmare! There's three wide white 110v wires coming in the back, and inside the white wires all go to a bar on the side, the grounds all get tied together on the other side, and the power cable comes in from the bottom and gets mixed in there. Gives me a headache to look at it. I mostly wanted to get the big power cable out of the way so I don't have to work around it, but maybe I'd better just leave that mess alone?
__________________
Stephanie
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11-30-2004, 06:50 AM
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#31
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Rivet Master
1959 26' Overlander
Putnam
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
Full Monty? No, I'm still in denial about that. But I'm thinking that maybe I should continue back and remove the fiberglass bathroom shell to see if there's any rot under there needs fixin'. Might as well get it all at once.
Ok, I got the Univolt out ok, but the fusebox is a nightmare! There's three wide white 110v wires coming in the back, and inside the white wires all go to a bar on the side, the grounds all get tied together on the other side, and the power cable comes in from the bottom and gets mixed in there. Gives me a headache to look at it. I mostly wanted to get the big power cable out of the way so I don't have to work around it, but maybe I'd better just leave that mess alone?
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The three white wires attached to the bar are the neutrals. The bar is isolated from the trailer (not connected to it) and isolated from the grounds ( not connected to them either). This is a floating ground system. You have or have three black or red wires which attach to the breakers. These are the hot wires. If you have AC then one of these may be thicker and go to a breaker with a 20 or 30 on it. Mark the blackwires with a little tape with the size braker they were attached to, 10, 20, 30 ect.
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11-30-2004, 07:24 AM
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#32
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Rivet Master
1968 24' Tradewind
Rural, blink and you'll miss it
, Missouri
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 692
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I gotta say it: I admire you for tackling all of this stuff. I also admire the forum members who are jumping in to give you guidance. Gotta love this place.
And meanwhile in MIssouri, it's 32 degrees, the snow is steadily falling...
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11-30-2004, 08:03 AM
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#33
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Rivet Master
1959 26' Overlander
Putnam
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
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Looking under the toilet and shower is a sure sign of a deep desire to do the Full Monty. I found it easy to remove the lounge and dinnette from my 68 Caravel. Fortunately the OP did the floor. I will suggest that you inspect around the fresh fill and under that end of the holding tank as they are prone to leaking at the connection. At least retighten it. I had to redo the floor there because the connection leaked during filling and if over filled.
Think the whole project out or it will take over and you know what that means. I think battery boil over is a problem with the battery floor area once the vinyl is cracked. The PO put a piece of aluminum sheet down (about 1/4") to protect the floor in mine. I think one of those trays for boots would work just as well.
If you don't have to remove the main AC panel then work around it. You have aluminum wire and it's best to not fool around with it too much if you don't have to.
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11-30-2004, 08:46 AM
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#34
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Durango
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: 1975 25' Tradewind
Posts: 3,491
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I would loosen the belly pan if possible in the rear to get a look at whats underneath the fiberglass - think that would be easier than pulling out the bathroom.
-7 (thats minus) here this morning
Ken
__________________
1956 Flying Cloud
Founder :
Four Corners Unit
Albuquerque National Balloon Fiesta
Rally
Vintage Trailer Academy - Formerly the original
restoration rally
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11-30-2004, 12:17 PM
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#35
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,253
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Thanks, good ideas. I'll see if I can work around the fusebox, but there is rotted floor right under it, and I think I might have to remove the interior panel it is mounted on to access bolts in that area.
For the battery box I am going to get a sealed box, like you use for trunk mounting a battery in a car. That way I can vent it out the vent hole. In mine the vent rubber was rotted away and the battery was not vented at all.
Good idea about peeking under the bellypan in back. There's a little modification I would like to do to the sewage outlet before next camping season, and the bellypan will probably have to come off for that anyway. But that's another thread...
One thing at a time, and I think I will get through this.
__________________
Stephanie
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11-30-2004, 07:44 PM
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#36
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Rivet Master
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,255
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Sealed batteries?
Stephanie,
What you said about battery venting brings up a question I have been wondering about.
Is it or is it not true that the new style fully sealed RV batteries would not need to be vented?
I hope you find a good stopping place before your rig starts looking like mine.
Malcolm
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11-30-2004, 07:59 PM
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#37
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,280
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Steph -- I knew Shari has addressed the asbestos issue in several posts. I found this. I'm not one to say how to handle it. Maybe ask her in that thread what she'd suggest if you really have it.
There is more to asbestos cleanup than this but I know one thing -- from daily work with blue masks I know that they are miserable as respiratory filters in spite of what might seem like a good fit with you. I've got a paint spray respirator and use it all the time. I can breathe as hard as I want and never smell solvents (caution is due in oxygen excluding environments!). It's also reasonably comfortable in warm weather.
Be careful out there!
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11-30-2004, 08:25 PM
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#38
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Rivet Master
1977 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
1964 26' Overlander
1977 25' Tradewind
Eastern
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 865
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Get Smart
Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
Stephanie,
What you said about battery venting brings up a question I have been wondering about.
Is it or is it not true that the new style fully sealed RV batteries would not need to be vented?
I hope you find a good stopping place before your rig starts looking like mine.
Malcolm
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Sealed batteries or 'Recombinate' will still out gas. Venting the battery box is the best solution for out gasing.
As I have said many times before "get rid of the Univolt" They are bad news on batteries, less than optimum poorly vented battery boxes also.
They will cause batteries to boil dry (Out gas) excessivley.
Purchase a smart charger and save money on batteries because they will last longer and you will not beat up your battery box as much either.
Controlled charging is the only way to go.
__________________
Peace
Gary
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11-30-2004, 11:17 PM
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#39
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 26
1963 24' Tradewind
Seattle
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,341
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New winter rally idea
Ok Gary - here's an idea for a winter rally. Stephanie and I will bring our trailers to your neighborhood - then you can talk us through replacing our univolts (something I've been thinking of doing too with an intellipower). I'll bring bacon!
What do ya think?
Marc
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11-30-2004, 11:24 PM
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#40
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,253
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The next NW Forum rally will be held in my front yard! I've got work enough for everyone
I'll bet we could have the little Caravel fixed and back on the road in one long weekend!
__________________
Stephanie
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