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Old 03-03-2005, 11:49 AM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
I am just getting to where I am buttoning up the wall around the 110v fusebox. I haven't figured out how to run the 110v over to the fridge. I can't run it in the walls anyway, because I would need to run it through the bathroom and I didn't remove those walls.
We ran the 12v and a new 110 line under the floor for the fridge, but I guess I'm getting that advice to you a BIT late.

See the pic. We mounted an Intellipower to the wall to gain some storage space, and added a 12v fuse panel from West Marine. I was also considering the Optima. The Caravel has a vent screen already built in to the access panel if you want to run a vent hose to it.
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Old 03-04-2005, 01:50 PM   #170
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Ok, I think I'm starting to figure this out. There's a 110v line coming out of the wall that used to go into the Univolt. I want to put an outlet there. Of course I can't find outlets rated for aluminum wire, so I'm thinking of stealing the outlet from the bathroom, which we never use. I could cap off the bathroom wires and hide them behind a cover. Then I could put the outlet where I need it next to where the Univolt used to be, and plug the Intellipower in there. Then I was going to run an extension cord under the floor and bring it up through a hole under the fridge, and plug the fridge in there.

I got a 12v fusebox, it has 14 circuits - the smallest they had at the parts store. I only need four. I guess that leaves room to expand.
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Old 03-04-2005, 04:15 PM   #171
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And now we eat crow ...

Well, right after I posted the pic, I realized something funny was up. How could the gaucho be converted to a bed with the Intellipower and 12v fuse box in that position?

Sure enough, we're going to have to move them. So don't do what we did! But there's still room enough in there to get the Intellipower off the floor for additional storage space. I'll post a pic of the revised layout when it's done.
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Old 03-04-2005, 04:48 PM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
Yes, I still have the hole in the floor for the fridge airflow. I also have a 12v fan setup I made for the old fridge, so I'll be reinstalling that.

If I can add a plug next to the 110v breaker box, maybe I can just get a heavy duty extension cord to run around to the fridge. It's not all that far, and it can run through the tunnel in front of the shower.
Stef,
The electric element in the refrigerator is less than 200W, in a very small fridge it is likely around 100W, so it's power consumption is very low, and there is no need for heavy wiring going to it.
A standard outlet is just fine. It's no more than a 150W light bulb.
You are making good progress. I need to catch up!
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Old 03-04-2005, 04:51 PM   #173
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I thought that looked a little high. I think I might put the Intellipower on the wall right next to where the Univolt was. The 12v fuse panel will be there too. I'm just trying to keep everything close to where it was so I don't have to drag new wires around. Once I get the water pipes back in there, there's not a lot of usefull space in that area anyway.

Are you making any changes to the plumbing, or just putting the copper pipes back in - assuming you still had copper pipes?

I have a question. There is a wire that goes from the 110v fuse box to the U channel below the access door where it is held down by a junction block (which was held down by one of the original floor bolts). Then another wire goes from there to the 12v ground wires. It looks like inside the 110v fuse box it is attached to the green wire that comes out of the cable (you know, the big cable that plugs into the camp power). I assume this is a ground wire, but I'm wondering why it attaches to the U channel and then to the 12v ground block. Is this to ground the whole system when plugged in? Anyone know?
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Old 03-04-2005, 04:59 PM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
Are you making any changes to the plumbing, or just putting the copper pipes back in - assuming you still had copper pipes?
The prior owner had already removed all the copper plumbing and replaced with flexible plastic lines. These are a lot easier to work with, in terms of snaking them around obstacles under the gaucho. But if you have copper now and it is in decent shape, I wouldn't mess with it.
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Old 03-04-2005, 09:03 PM   #175
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I have good copper pipe, so I think I'll be putting it back in without any changes.

Well, this morning I didn't have a clue what I was going to do, but here it is at the end of the day and it looks pretty good. I returned the big fuse block and got one with six circuits, which is a more appropriate size since I only have three. I removed the outlet from the bathroom and moved it out to where the Univolt was, and that's where the intellipower will plug in. Now I just need a short lead from the intellipower to the fuse block, and then I need to figure out how long the battery cables will be, and get the battery back in there. Things are coming right along.
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Old 03-05-2005, 11:33 AM   #176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rluhr
Well, right after I posted the pic, I realized something funny was up. How could the gaucho be converted to a bed with the Intellipower and 12v fuse box in that position?

Sure enough, we're going to have to move them. So don't do what we did! But there's still room enough in there to get the Intellipower off the floor for additional storage space. I'll post a pic of the revised layout when it's done.
\


Move them forward up into that curved space before the water tank.
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Old 03-05-2005, 11:53 AM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
I have good copper pipe, so I think I'll be putting it back in without any changes.

Well, this morning I didn't have a clue what I was going to do, but here it is at the end of the day and it looks pretty good. I returned the big fuse block and got one with six circuits, which is a more appropriate size since I only have three. I removed the outlet from the bathroom and moved it out to where the Univolt was, and that's where the intellipower will plug in. Now I just need a short lead from the intellipower to the fuse block, and then I need to figure out how long the battery cables will be, and get the battery back in there. Things are coming right along.
Not to cause concern but that's where my water pump is so I can reach it from the outside access panel. The order I have is AC Panel, two Batteries, Water Pump, fuse block, and then Intell with smart box on the wall.

You can get outlets that are rated for aluminum and copper. Stop by a local electrical supply and tell them what you need or ask the old guy at your local mega do it yourself store.

Put one of these 100 amp fuses in to protect your batteries. http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/...BC4121+M37+ENG or if doesn't work

http://www.waytekwire.com/
products, fuses, high amp

get a holder also.
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Old 03-05-2005, 09:22 PM   #178
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I tested the new 110v outlet and it works fine. I won't miss the outlet in the bathroom, it was in a really inconvenient spot, unless you like to shave over the toilet. I put a blank plate over it.

I wasted most of today trying to find a sealed/vented battery box for my group 27 battery. I could find them for group 24 size, but not 27. Unfortunately I just replaced this battery last year, and I hate to go buy another new battery. So Monday I'll try a couple more places that weren't open today.

I got really annoyed at the RV/auto parts places I called. They either didn't know what I meant, despite me trying to explain it, or just insisted they had it without going and checking. The guy at Shucks even told me "I don't know what the hell you're talking about". Well, at least he was honest. Idiot. Two places that insisted they had one caused me to drive 45 minutes into town just to discover they had plain old unvented battery boxes, like everyone else had. There was one more place in Portland that said they had one, but it was another half-hour further away, and I was afraid I'd get there and find out they didn't have it either, so I gave up and went home.

Tonight I'll be working on re-installing the water system. But I can't really test it until I get a battery set up in there because the 12v still isn't hooked up.
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Old 03-06-2005, 07:45 AM   #179
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I've had good experience with these people. Battery Box
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?...16468&id=52383
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Old 03-06-2005, 10:42 AM   #180
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I think this would be a more appropriate solution.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...w=sku&N=302082

At one time "Pelican" made a suitable enclosure. You could even make one yourself using a good sealing compound at the joints with a thick soft gasket for the lid....it only needs to seal - not contain any pressure.
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Old 03-06-2005, 12:04 PM   #181
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I have searched online for sometime and have not found a battery box that will hold that battery.I have come to the conclusion that I will have to make one myself.
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Old 03-06-2005, 12:41 PM   #182
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Ok, I cannot make a new thread so I hope Steph won't mind my cutting into hers. I finally feel as if I belong. I've been repainting the rubrail of my 1978 Argosy and have found a hole in the front bellyband. It's just the outer thin metal piece and the metal behind it seems sound. When I take a screwdriver and clean out the hole this white powder like stuff comes out. How far should I go with this? The thin metal piece just extends over to the tongue and then another metal piece starts and goes around to the door. There are no holes in this piece, just some rock pitting of the paint that I am sanding out. I've also noticed some light surface rust on the frame in one place way under the trailer. Should I sand that off and paint it or leave it alone? Just how far do I go with this inspection. I see so many on the forum taking out the floors and taking off the belly pan. When do I know I need to do this? I've check the floors and I can't see any sign of rot. I looked in that back bumper storage area and I see no rust. Any help would be appreciated. Also which caulk do I use above that big front window. I have vulkem, can I use that? Judy
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