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Old 02-18-2005, 07:03 PM   #155
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New floor!

Well, we decided to cut the front piece down the middle, and it slid right into place with a little persuasion from a rubber mallet. It's great to have floor in there again! The cut goes right down the middle of the center beam, so both pieces are supported by metal on all sides. Once I have it screwed down I'll make a template for the next section.

I do appreciate all the advice everyone gave. We took it all into consideration before deciding which way to go. If we're wrong and it doesn't hold up, then maybe we'll do the full monty sometime down the road, but I'll bet this gets us a few more years of camping until then.
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Old 02-19-2005, 10:30 AM   #156
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I just realized I was so excited to fit the wood I forgot to fit the insulation first! I guess that's takes care of the insulation question, because the wood is definitly not coming back out!

Maybe someday if I drop the bellypan for something else I can put some in then.
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Old 02-28-2005, 10:43 PM   #157
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Well, the floor is finally in. I didn't anticipate that getting a nice tight fit would be a bit of a fight. Things were a little too tight. I ended up grinding and sanding away the high spots until it all fit nice and snug. I probably wouldn't have had this problem if I had cut it on a table saw, but because I cut it with a jigsaw by hand the line wasn't as perfectly straight as I would have liked.

So the floor is in, and the body is screwed to the floor. Now I just need to use the tek screws to screw the floor to the frame.

And most exciting, tomorrow I go pick up the new appliances.
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Old 03-01-2005, 01:39 AM   #158
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...lovely! Don't you love the smell of new plywood? Go see my post on my '67 progress. You totally motivated me.
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Old 03-01-2005, 07:32 AM   #159
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Nice job!

Stef, congrats! I can tell you from our recent experience (http://www.airstreamlife.com/vintage...underblog.html) that once the floor work is done, things move along a bit more quickly. Now the fun begins!

But remember to look for the spots that made this floor rot possible in the first place! It's much easier to check for leaks now -- and fix them -- while everything is out.
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Old 03-02-2005, 08:18 PM   #160
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The skin is in!

Today I fastened down the new floor, and am now re-installing the interior skins. Riveting the skins back in is turning out to be the hardest part of the project, mostly due to my small, weak, girly hands, which are having trouble squeezing the rivet tool over and over again, so I have to take frequent breaks. Still, everything is fitting right back where it belongs, but some of the holes are reamed out from removing the previous rivets, so I've moved up to a slightly fatter rivet.

I also dropped a little over a grand on a new fridge, heater, and intellipower. They are waiting for installation as soon as I get the skins back in, so I can start re-installing the furniture. I think reconnecting the wiring is going to be challenging. I'll have some questions about that as soon as I get to it.
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Old 03-02-2005, 08:24 PM   #161
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You sure are on fire. If you did not replace the aluminum wire make sure the swithces and outlets you use are rated for aluminum wire. Did you remember the trailer connection under the floor?
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Old 03-02-2005, 08:44 PM   #162
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Stef, what fridge did you get? What modification is expected to make it fit? My Caravel's fridge is good for now, but considering its age, I want to be ready if it croaks.
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Old 03-02-2005, 10:21 PM   #163
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Before you finish installing the skins is the time to run the 12 volt power for the new fridge. That is if it requires 12 volt

The intellipower is easy to install, it will not be hard at all.
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Old 03-02-2005, 11:05 PM   #164
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I haven't even gotten the fridge out of the box yet. I'll let you know more when I get a better look at it. It's a Dometic, and Darol said it's the smallest one they make, the next size up is too tall. I think it will come pretty close to fitting in the old hole.

The heater requires some modifications to the wheelwell cover to fit it so the exhaust goes out through the stock hole. Of course the stock hole is circular, so it will have to be patched, as the new heater exhaust is square.

I am just getting to where I am buttoning up the wall around the 110v fusebox. I haven't figured out how to run the 110v over to the fridge. I can't run it in the walls anyway, because I would need to run it through the bathroom and I didn't remove those walls. Of course, there is one 110v set of plugs in the kitchen. It's above the counter behind the sink. I don't know if I can tap into that somehow.

Otherwise I am not modifying the 110v system. It is aluminum, and I'm going to just not mess with it, because it works now. Basically there are three 110v outlets - one in the kitchen, one in the bathroom midway up the wall behind the toilet, and one above and to the left of the table. None are conveniently placed for powering my new appliances.

The 12v system however used the Univolt as the fusebox, so there are no 12v fuses in the system now. So Darol was explaining to me how to build a 12v fusebox, and wire them up to the battery. Then the Intelipower will keep the battery charged. Oh yeah, it needs to plug in somewhere too, and there's no 110v plugs anywhere near where I would put the Intellipower...

I'm trying to get this done by April, and I need to have it finished enough to camp in by May. Having a deadline certainly has spurred me along!
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Old 03-02-2005, 11:40 PM   #165
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I have the same trailer. The fuses are inside the univolt. Buy an inexpensive DC fuse box for blade type fuses. Five slots should be fine but 10 will be lots of extras and cost a dollar more. My setup is under the curbside dinette seat and coach area. There is room for two batteries. There is a hole going outside just above this area to vent the batteries. I ran the AC to my new fridge under the floor. Had to build out the counter for the fridge as it is deeper than the old ones. I'll post some pics for you. Yes you can use the outlet on the sink side to get a wire down. Do it before attaching the interior skin on that side. The converter should be an easy connect to the AC breaker box next to the batteries. Bring a new outlet off the panel to plug in the convert. Also gives you an AC outlet to plug in outside with the access door open a little. This area must have some venting if you are using lead acid batteries. Did you allow a hole in the floor to feed fresh air to the fridge? These things work by air flow over the colling coils. They don't get cold if there isn't air "moving" over them like a flue draft. I put a small computer fan above the coils into the exhaust stack with a switch I can reach through the access door.
If you have a Voc Tech school near you they may help with the wiring just to show the kids the AC/DC system and vintage aluminum wiring.
You've done the hard part and are rounding the bend. I never would have though you could work outside in Wa in the winter.
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Old 03-03-2005, 09:26 AM   #166
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Yes, I still have the hole in the floor for the fridge airflow. I also have a 12v fan setup I made for the old fridge, so I'll be reinstalling that.

If I can add a plug next to the 110v breaker box, maybe I can just get a heavy duty extension cord to run around to the fridge. It's not all that far, and it can run through the tunnel in front of the shower.

I'm planning to use the kind of batteries that don't need to be vented to the outside.

We have wonderfully mild weather here in the NW most of the time, though this winter has been exceptionally nice. You know, we just complain about our weather to keep the riff-raff out
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Old 03-03-2005, 10:27 AM   #167
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No Vent Batteries?

Steph:

If you are referring to Optima Batteries (or other Gel Cell), be advised that they do, indeed, offgas. Even though they advertise as being "an almost any position battery", HSOx (and possibly HCl) gas is a by product of charging (look at the vents on the tops of their batteries).

The Optima website advises that they be installed in a "well ventilated" area.
http://www.optimabatteries.com/publi..._handling.html

I seriously considered installing them behind the Gaucho inside the Sovereign, but after looking into the Gel Cell Batteries operational characteristics a bit further, I surmised that ALL rechargeable lead based batteries off gas. Therefore I plan to mount the battery on the tongue of the trailer.

If you "have" to mount a lead based battery in the interior, I strongly urge you to find or fabricate a "bubble tight" box enclosure that is properly vented to the exterior of the trailer.

Hydro Sulphuric/Chloric gas will cause bad things to happen in the enclosed confines of an Airstream.
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Old 03-03-2005, 10:54 AM   #168
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Thanks, Dennis, I'll take it under advisement. Whatever I get is going under the gaucho, so I'll have to figure out the best solution.
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