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Old 03-06-2005, 11:04 AM   #181
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I have searched online for sometime and have not found a battery box that will hold that battery.I have come to the conclusion that I will have to make one myself.
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Old 03-06-2005, 11:41 AM   #182
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Ok, I cannot make a new thread so I hope Steph won't mind my cutting into hers. I finally feel as if I belong. I've been repainting the rubrail of my 1978 Argosy and have found a hole in the front bellyband. It's just the outer thin metal piece and the metal behind it seems sound. When I take a screwdriver and clean out the hole this white powder like stuff comes out. How far should I go with this? The thin metal piece just extends over to the tongue and then another metal piece starts and goes around to the door. There are no holes in this piece, just some rock pitting of the paint that I am sanding out. I've also noticed some light surface rust on the frame in one place way under the trailer. Should I sand that off and paint it or leave it alone? Just how far do I go with this inspection. I see so many on the forum taking out the floors and taking off the belly pan. When do I know I need to do this? I've check the floors and I can't see any sign of rot. I looked in that back bumper storage area and I see no rust. Any help would be appreciated. Also which caulk do I use above that big front window. I have vulkem, can I use that? Judy
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Old 03-06-2005, 03:17 PM   #183
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Aluminim Wire to Copper only Duplex Outlet

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
There's a 110v line coming out of the wall that used to go into the Univolt. I want to put an outlet there. Of course I can't find outlets rated for aluminum wire,
Hello Stefrobrts

You can connect copper wire pigtails to the duplex outlet and then connect the pigtails to the aluminum with wire nuts, using some no-ox compound to control oxidation in the aluminum, copper connection. The wire nuts are spring loaded so they expand and contract to any heat changes. This was the official fix for homes with aluminum wiring several years ago.

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Old 03-09-2005, 11:08 PM   #184
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I couldn't find a battery box I liked that wasn't huge, so I bought a dry cell Odyssey battery. It's smaller and doesn't need to be vented. The RV shop we use for repairs have been using them in their own rigs and customer rigs for a couple years and are happy with them, so I splurged.

So here's the trailer tonight. The water system is reinstalled, and some of the furniture has gone back in so I can figure out the best place to mount the new battery and get the 12v hooked up.
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Old 03-10-2005, 08:09 AM   #185
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I'm afraid this is going to be expensive

Way to go Stephanie. You are doing a great job. I can only imagine the satisfaction you will have when through.

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Old 03-10-2005, 01:08 PM   #186
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I need a square of exterior aluminum, 12 inches square, to cover the old heater exhaust vent so I can install the new one. Does anyone have a scrap piece that big? I hate to go buy a sheet when I only need a little bit.
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Old 03-10-2005, 01:33 PM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
I need a square of exterior aluminum, 12 inches square, to cover the old heater exhaust vent so I can install the new one. Does anyone have a scrap piece that big? I hate to go buy a sheet when I only need a little bit.
Hey Steph!

I have been authorized to gift you some of the extra sheet aluminum from the Vintage Thunder project thanks to Airstream Life. I will send you out a piece early next week. Please get me your exact minimum dimensions.


I still have your address.
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Old 03-10-2005, 02:00 PM   #188
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Thanks Brett (and Rich)! I PM'd you.
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Old 03-11-2005, 08:28 PM   #189
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Well, the bad news is my water tank neck is broken. It is cracked about 3/4 of the way around, right where the neck meets the body of the tank. It had been repaired by a PO, but the repair fell apart when I went to connect it back up to the filler tube.

On the bright side (ha ha) all the 12v wiring is installed and working. The intellipower is plugged into the trailer's 110v system, and it's charging the new battery, and the interior lights and radio work. Yippee!
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Old 03-11-2005, 09:25 PM   #190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
Well, the bad news is my water tank neck is broken. It is cracked about 3/4 of the way around, right where the neck meets the body of the tank. It had been repaired by a PO, but the repair fell apart when I went to connect it back up to the filler tube.
Stef,
Is your tank metal or is it a plastic or poly tank?
either way should be repairable. You can either glue it back together if it's plastic or poly, or weld it if it's metal.
If all else fails, I can get a custom tank made for you by the same people that made my 3 tanks for the Overlander. All you have to do is measure and draw a picture with the inlets and outlets, and they can make a tank exactly to your specs, and ship it straight to you.
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Old 03-11-2005, 10:01 PM   #191
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Thanks, Uwe, I'll keep it in mind. Darol (Landyachtdoc) is coming over tomorrow, and has some stuff he thinks will fix it. It's a plastic tank, BTW.

Here's a couple pictures. One is the battery in it's new location behind the streetside wheel. The second picture is the charger at the front end of the trailer. The only thing I'm not happy with yet is the way I had to fasten together all the wires that were attached to posts in the Univolt. I ended up just tying them all together by screwing them down to a block of wood, hot wires on one side, grounds on the other. I'd like to get something a little less 'Bubba', but had no luck at the auto parts store, hardware store, or radio shack.
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Old 03-12-2005, 01:42 AM   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
The only thing I'm not happy with yet is the way I had to fasten together all the wires that were attached to posts in the Univolt. I ended up just tying them all together by screwing them down to a block of wood, hot wires on one side, grounds on the other. I'd like to get something a little less 'Bubba', but had no luck at the auto parts store, hardware store, or radio shack.
Stef,

Try West Marine's website, or a car stereo outfit.
they have massive connector bars for just this purpose.
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Old 03-12-2005, 03:53 PM   #193
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Still no luck finding one, but I made one out of a bolt through a block of wood that seems to be working out. I looked over my pictures of the univolt, and realized that the blue wire from the car battery needed to be on a fuse, so I had to move the fusebox so it would be close enough for that wire to reach. That's the third time I've moved the fuse box! But I think it's good now.

Darol (Landyachtdoc) came over and helped me make sure the floor was fastened down good. My little drill couldn't get the screws down tight enough, so he brought a big drill that put them right down tight into the wood. He also added a lot of screws, so now things are nice and tight in there.

He also welded the filler neck of the water tank. I'll have to be careful when I hook it back up, we'll see if it holds. It was a pretty big crack.

Then I went over to his shop where he's working on a Caravel for a customer, installing a fridge like the one I'm going to put in. The Caravel he's working on already has the new furnace, so I wanted to see how he installed it. He does really fine cabinet work. So now I know how things fit together.

So that's my next project - tackling the new appliances.
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Old 03-12-2005, 10:40 PM   #194
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What kind of heater are you going to get? I'm needing the same and the space is not very friendly. I want to avoid putting a radiant heater in the same place as the old heater.

Nice wiring. Great place for the battery.
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Old 03-12-2005, 11:18 PM   #195
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The battery placement was Darol's idea. He'd done it to another Caravel. He also helped me pick out this heater, which he'd installed in a Caravel. It's an Atwood hydro flame #7912-II. The owner had such raves about it, I decided that was the way to go. It's even going to have a thermostat, so when you come home and it's cold you just turn on the heat at the wall - like a real house! No more kneeling in the showerpan trying to hold down the pilot light while lighting the furnace with a BBQ lighter! It just comes on!

I should be fitting the furnace tomorrow so I'll post pictures. I got the kitchen cabinet reinstalled this afternoon and test fitted the fridge. It will fit perfectly, but it's short! More details on it when I get to installation.
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Old 03-13-2005, 07:45 AM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
Still no luck finding one, but I made one out of a bolt through a block of wood that seems to be working out. I looked over my pictures of the univolt, and realized that the blue wire from the car battery needed to be on a fuse, so I had to move the fusebox so it would be close enough for that wire to reach. That's the third time I've moved the fuse box! But I think it's good now.
Stef,

Here ya go. These are the ones I will be ordering for the Overlander.
http://www.bluesea.com/product.asp?P...65&l1=7465&l2=
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Old 03-15-2005, 10:09 AM   #197
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Did you get the heater put in. Here's a soure for those busbars
http://www.pkys.com/Blue_Sea/index.htm
You can look up the price on the pricelist link.

You will want some connectors to go with those and not just wrap the wire around. Can also be had at most napa auto stores, ect

http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/...A45892+M37+ENG
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Old 03-15-2005, 11:16 AM   #198
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I haven't got the heater in yet, but I worked on it yesterday. Of course, since every AS is different, it's not fitting into my Caravel as easily as it fit into the other one Darol did. My wheel well is in the way of putting it where I can use the exisiting vent hole. I can't cut a new hole above the existing hole because a crossbeam in the wall is there. I can't move it towards the rear because a rib is there. But it's close, so I think it will work. I might just need a little extention to get the exhaust to come out where I want it. Time to go wander the aisles at HD. I'll try to get a picture up tonight.
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Old 03-15-2005, 01:52 PM   #199
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Here's a picture of the heater. It's sitting on a 7 1/2 inch platform, which lifts it up enough to clear the wheelwell liner and still be in line with the hole in the wall. It looks like there will be enough room above the hole to cut a new exhaust hole without hitting the crossbeam. I'm going to have to move the copper pipes out of the way though. I think I can move them up a little bit without too much trouble.
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Old 03-15-2005, 02:37 PM   #200
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I'll order one and hope to get it in. If not I'll use it in "The Bat Cave Express". I wonder of that wheel well liner is really necessary?
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