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Old 07-02-2014, 02:36 PM   #1
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1967 17' Caravel
Oakland , California
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Caravel rebuild

Without the help and inspiration of the Vintage Trailer Academy, I am don't want to imagine where we would be at this point.
Our goal is to finish it this year and take it to the next VTA in '15

When we bought the Caravel it was in very good condition and we used it for a number of adventures. Few issues like mold in the water tank, leaks and a rotten floor...could be worse as we were so stoked to own a Caravel

Here were are
Todate:
Shell off
Frame sandblasted and painted with POR 15
Two 30 gal tanks mounted under the floor on either side of the axle
( no black water tank as we are going to use a compostable toilet )
3/4 marine ply with epoxy both sides
Stainless wheel wells
Axle is near new
New tail light lenses
All new weather stripping and hardware on the windows
Shell is back on and bolted down
Fantastic Fan in place

Now the electrical which to me is a very daunting task
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Old 07-02-2014, 03:49 PM   #2
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1965 17' Caravel
San Antonio , Texas
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Keep up the picture posting! At the very least -I- will be following it closely! I bring home my new-to-us '65 Caravel in three weeks.
Where did the two tanks come from?
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Old 07-02-2014, 03:52 PM   #3
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1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground , Washington
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Looks fabulous!
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:05 PM   #4
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1967 17' Caravel
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The tanks came from Plastic Mart and they buy them from Ronco in Tustin CA. If you buy tanks directly from Ronco they are more expensive. I considered custom tanks but the cost 4 x as much. So it became a work around. The tanks are 8" deep and we put galvanized removable box under them. I bought the tanks w/o holes until we finalized the interior design. I took the tanks to Ronco and they spun the new fittings on ( no charge)
We are trying to stay away from as much RV equipment as possible just because of the overall quality and lean more towards marine products. We built a spare tire rack up forward under the frame as well.

On our list, when we make new belly pans they will be removable. Zeus fittings or something similar.
Pic of the old belly pan, hopefully it will help as a template. We are going to use 20-24 for pan stock rather than the thinner original stock
Pic of the frame before the tanks
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:06 PM   #5
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I like your wheels and hubcaps, where did you get them? They look classic.
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Old 07-03-2014, 10:28 AM   #6
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1967 17' Caravel
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The wheels are stock AS wheels only powder coated in a metallic grey and the hubcaps are the pointed ones that VTS sells. Personally I think the color of the wheels is really important to the overall appearance. I'm always amazed of all the work that goes into the restoration of an AS the wheels are ignored. At first I thought of red or an aqua color but then I realized it's just a bit to cliche for my taste
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:45 PM   #7
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Nice wheels really set it off. Mine are just primer grey, even the hubcaps Time to upgrade.
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Old 07-03-2014, 01:44 PM   #8
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Newport , North Carolina
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Looks awesome please keep us posted! So you have a fresh water tank and a grey tank?
Cliff
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Old 07-04-2014, 10:34 AM   #9
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Yes, both fresh and grey tanks are the same size. The compostable toilet will solve the issue not having a black tank. This is not the cheapest way to go but we are only going to build this Caravel once. I suppose if the compostable toilet is a disaster we can put a standard toilet in with a black tank.
Also we are putting an external removable shower head on the side.
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Old 07-04-2014, 12:46 PM   #10
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I am planning to replace the floor and repair the frame on my 67 Caravel. I have a couple of questions. You say you sandblasted and painted the frame. No mention of any repairs or additions. Is the picture of the frame shown in post #4 the original unmodified (except for paint) frame and if so do you have any more picture of the frame that include the rear and front sections. If you do would you post a few. Thanks.

I am also considering going with a compostable toilet. I have looked at two marine versions (the brand names escape me at the moment) but am not sure whether either would fit. Have you made a selection and if so what model. Are you planning to install it at the same location, i.e. on the toilet riser, or are you planning to modify the fiberglass rear bathroom pan.

The tank installations and frame look great and I like the idea of making the belly pan easier to remove. Going to google Zeus fittings to see what that's all about. Hope you'll continue to keep us updated on your restoration efforts
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:29 PM   #11
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Try this: DZUS® FASTENER SALE! from Aircraft Spruce

Kind of expensive to use in any great numbers IMHO.
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Old 07-04-2014, 08:45 PM   #12
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Yep pretty pricey. I'm thinking stainless sheet metal screws and silicone to seal along aluminum to aluminum seams and rivenuts (sp) and stainless machine screws on frame members --- or frankly just go original with rivets. I am hoping to do a good enough job on replacing the floor and sealing everything that I won't ever need to touch the belly pan again. That of course would be my preference.
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Old 07-04-2014, 11:11 PM   #13
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Make sure the belly pan is secure but don't seal it so tight that it can't breathe. If water gets in, you want it to be able to get out. Tight enough to keep mice and varmints at bay, loose enough to breathe.
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Old 07-04-2014, 11:30 PM   #14
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One more thought: the rivets are likely the way to go. When you consider that the belly pans usually stay intact for 25+ years barring accidents, rivets work well. I plan to use the large headed rivets from VTS with access panels planned in for those areas where there is the most possibility you will need to do some work (primarily the back plumbing area). It is quick and easy to drill out a few rivets to drop the access panel, then rivet it back up when you are through.

As for the frame. you will only know what you need to do when the belly pan is off and the floor is out. The most likely repairs are the cross members and outriggers where the floor bolts go through, especially in the rear. The main frame is heavy enough gauge that it is less likely to be needing welding repair.
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