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Old 11-17-2014, 11:05 PM   #61
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I am using a wood relief or template and a torch as recommended by the pros. Since I can possibly screw up peanut butter and jelly I bought more than I would need for errors! They (the pros) said to use the torch only to heat it up enough to bend but not so much that it changes colors so I will let you know how it works.
Cliff
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Old 11-18-2014, 03:27 PM   #62
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The 1 inch 3/16 rivets arrived today so will be reinstalling the door hinge with then after adjustment.
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Old 11-18-2014, 10:07 PM   #63
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I am trying the heat and bend technique, too. An old soldering iron seems to put out enough heat to get the aluminum to move, but we will see about fit when it comes to bending and riveting into place.
Patched the water fill area today and I think I will use a marine type water fill rather than the aluminum neck and cap. I think the original fill and cap corroded together sometime in the past and people trying to get the cap off tore the mounting area up pretty badly.
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:50 PM   #64
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Have you guys read Franks Trailer works description on how he did his moulding install? He puts out a bunch of really helpful entertaining info on his blog. Check it out if you haven't already.
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Old 11-20-2014, 03:34 PM   #65
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Do you have a link for that molding install?
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Old 11-20-2014, 08:52 PM   #66
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Do you have a link for that molding install?
Here's the link to Franks blog,http://frankstrailerworksblog.blogspot.com
I'm reading thru it for the specific trim install. I recommend you all read thru it, lots of great info.
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Old 11-26-2014, 11:06 AM   #67
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Here's a little something I found, I think he goes in more depth in another post.
http://frankstrailerworksblog.blogsp...-straight.html
It's at the bottom of the post.
Mike
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Old 11-27-2014, 08:42 AM   #68
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Thanks for looking for the posts.

The material Frank uses is much like the factory edge. The idea is to cut relief cuts and heat to form using a template. Then, it is a lot of trial and error until it works as per one of Frank's earlier posts. The fun part is getting the curve at the top of the fender done and then bending to fit the curve below.
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:01 AM   #69
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Got the door off and curb side panel off. I laid the old panel over the new and trimmed to fit. I found that 90 degree angles were not in the Airstream panel playbook. That may explain problems I had with the street side panel - I assumed the panel would be a rectangle and it likely wasn't. We will see if the new panel fits right up today. Photos later...
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:25 AM   #70
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Got the door off and curb side panel off. I laid the old panel over the new and trimmed to fit. I found that 90 degree angles were not in the Airstream panel playbook. That may explain problems I had with the street side panel - I assumed the panel would be a rectangle and it likely wasn't. We will see if the new panel fits right up today. Photos later...
Good luck with your panel install. How did the fender trim install go?
Mike in El Paso
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Old 01-20-2015, 07:19 PM   #71
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Panel is in. Using the old panel as a pattern was a good idea as the rivet holes lined right up. I still have to finish fit the door for fridge access, but with a little work, the rivet holes will line up there as well.
We are going to fight the door a bit as the rod has to go in just so, washers have to be in the right place, stars have to align, etc. The 1" long, 3/16" rivets have to be trimmed to about 7/8" and the heads have to be turned down for the top and bottom rivets on the hinge mount. The set for the other rivets works on the larger ones, but it leaves an odd pattern on the head of the rivet. Matches what was there, however.
I'll try to post pictures when I get the door hung and the access panel mounted. Maybe some pics of the insulation, too.
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:07 PM   #72
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Curb Side

As promised, here are some photos. First is the new curb side, then a hinge shot, then insulation (just for fun). The side went well and is obviously not finished as the bottom still needs to be wrapped underneath.
Why the hinge? Just to underline the fact that it needs to be put back together EXACTLY as it was. A little time was spent finding out that the essential roll pin hole was drilled on a slight angle and didn't go through the center of the hinge pin. It doesn't go back together until the original configuration is duplicated. Other than that, the door removal/reinstall was easy.
Just thought I would show a little progress on the insulation front.
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Old 01-23-2015, 04:45 PM   #73
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Looks real good! Weather still has me on hold rain rain and more rain!
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Old 01-23-2015, 10:15 PM   #74
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We got this put together just before the snow hit us. I was lucky to have a couple of days without wind or freezing weather. As the snow melted today, I was happy to see everything melted except those areas I had already insulated. Made me think the reflectix isn't a bad choice.
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Old 01-28-2015, 02:23 PM   #75
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Fender Edge

Curb side fender edge turned out well. Here is a pic of the result. I am holding the edge on with screws until I get around to riveting it.
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:37 PM   #76
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The Joy of Taping

Here are couple of pics of the insulation, now about done except for some more taping onto the framework.
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Last is a shot of the street side where I want to put the water, electrical, and cable ports. The electrical panel is to be in this area. I bought one of the Intellipower 12V & 120V distribution panels so all the electrical comes from one point rather than the original three separate points.
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I found there is only room enough between the wheel house and the ABS cover to put a layer of reflectix or a compressed layer of fiberglass. Next step is the wiring and the floor covering.
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Old 02-12-2015, 11:26 AM   #77
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Looks great! This may be a rudimentary question, but what type of tape are you using to attach the Reflectix to the skin?
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Old 02-12-2015, 04:37 PM   #78
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Reflectix makes an aluminum tape that has an acrylic glue that sticks well to the Reflectix and to aluminum in the frame.
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Old 02-12-2015, 08:36 PM   #79
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Was Reflectix chosen for ease of install, or?
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Old 02-13-2015, 09:15 AM   #80
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Reflectix is available locally and, viewing the size of the task, subject to buying what is needed with little excess. As for ease of application, compared to putting in batts of fiberglass, it is a PITA. All seams have to be taped and the Reflectix has to be taped to the frame as well to minimize air flow between the wall and the Reflectix. Pieces of 3/4" foam have to be glued onto the wall to serve as spacers to form that dead air space, and odd shape pieces have to be cut on the caps front and rear. In addition, there are few, if any, right angles in the framework of the trailer. Fiberglass would have been easier and quicker, but this was worth a try.

I decided to try it because it seems to insulate at least as well as fiberglass, doesn't hold water, and (probably) won't keep the smell of varmints should they come visit. I was heartened to see snow stay on the parts I had finished while the sun melted the snow on the other side.
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