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Old 11-11-2014, 06:30 PM   #57
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They are scheduled to arrive here on the 13th so I will sent you some as soon as they arrive I had to use the back or blunt end of a chisel as a bucking bar in the groove of the door frame.
Cliff
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Old 11-17-2014, 11:17 AM   #58
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Street Side

Here's the shot of the street side riveted into place. Now to rivet it into the belly pan. Wheel well opening still to go.
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Old 11-17-2014, 02:47 PM   #59
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Looks real good! I did order the 3/16th rivets and will be sending you some rivets tomorrow. I have to trim the wheel well on the street side and finish the wheel well on the curb side.
Cliff
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Old 11-17-2014, 06:46 PM   #60
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How are you doing the trim on the wheel well? I haven't come up with a good method yet. I am going to try heating the (possible) trim as I try to form it, hoping to keep it from breaking. I made relief cuts on the back side but the J part wants to split.
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Old 11-18-2014, 12:05 AM   #61
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I am using a wood relief or template and a torch as recommended by the pros. Since I can possibly screw up peanut butter and jelly I bought more than I would need for errors! They (the pros) said to use the torch only to heat it up enough to bend but not so much that it changes colors so I will let you know how it works.
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Old 11-18-2014, 04:27 PM   #62
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The 1 inch 3/16 rivets arrived today so will be reinstalling the door hinge with then after adjustment.
Cliff
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Old 11-18-2014, 11:07 PM   #63
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I am trying the heat and bend technique, too. An old soldering iron seems to put out enough heat to get the aluminum to move, but we will see about fit when it comes to bending and riveting into place.
Patched the water fill area today and I think I will use a marine type water fill rather than the aluminum neck and cap. I think the original fill and cap corroded together sometime in the past and people trying to get the cap off tore the mounting area up pretty badly.
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Old 11-19-2014, 10:50 PM   #64
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Have you guys read Franks Trailer works description on how he did his moulding install? He puts out a bunch of really helpful entertaining info on his blog. Check it out if you haven't already.
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Old 11-20-2014, 04:34 PM   #65
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Do you have a link for that molding install?
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Old 11-20-2014, 09:52 PM   #66
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Do you have a link for that molding install?
Here's the link to Franks blog,http://frankstrailerworksblog.blogspot.com
I'm reading thru it for the specific trim install. I recommend you all read thru it, lots of great info.
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Old 11-26-2014, 12:06 PM   #67
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Here's a little something I found, I think he goes in more depth in another post.
http://frankstrailerworksblog.blogsp...-straight.html
It's at the bottom of the post.
Mike
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Old 11-27-2014, 09:42 AM   #68
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Thanks for looking for the posts.

The material Frank uses is much like the factory edge. The idea is to cut relief cuts and heat to form using a template. Then, it is a lot of trial and error until it works as per one of Frank's earlier posts. The fun part is getting the curve at the top of the fender done and then bending to fit the curve below.
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:01 AM   #69
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Got the door off and curb side panel off. I laid the old panel over the new and trimmed to fit. I found that 90 degree angles were not in the Airstream panel playbook. That may explain problems I had with the street side panel - I assumed the panel would be a rectangle and it likely wasn't. We will see if the new panel fits right up today. Photos later...
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Old 01-20-2015, 09:25 AM   #70
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Got the door off and curb side panel off. I laid the old panel over the new and trimmed to fit. I found that 90 degree angles were not in the Airstream panel playbook. That may explain problems I had with the street side panel - I assumed the panel would be a rectangle and it likely wasn't. We will see if the new panel fits right up today. Photos later...
Good luck with your panel install. How did the fender trim install go?
Mike in El Paso
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