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Old 10-13-2014, 02:36 PM   #41
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I finished putting the clips on the windows today. In theory, they are held on by spring pressure and can be removed by just working them down and off the window. Mine were rusted on to the point I thought I would break the window before the clip/catch came off. A few also had been siliconed in place. Enter the trusty Dremel tool. I scored the bottom of each clip being careful not to hit the glass. It weakened the spring action of the clip enough that the clip came off the window with little effort.

Unfortunately, the effort I saved is being spent drilling a few screws so I can remove the latch mechanisms for replacing or rebuilding. Only two or three of the latches are so far gone with rust that I will have to replace them. Rust remover cleans the others to the point of being presentable. Rust remover also cleaned off the rust stains that were in the shower pan.

Sorry no pics.
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Old 10-13-2014, 02:56 PM   #42
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That's not cool where is the fun of no pictures? But good job anyway and thanks for the tip mine are soon!
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Old 10-13-2014, 03:37 PM   #43
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I was pleased to find that in the $20 VTS reproduction, every piece of the mechanism is an exact replica of the original Philips. The nob of the crank has a slightly different profile than 1968, so I used my old cranks.
The stainless steel cover has a VTS logo, so I used my originals, which better matched the patina and logo of the others.
Last year, I saw original, used, winder/closure mechanisms battled for on eBay, selling for $75 each. $20 to get all new guts is a great deal... And they work like new.
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Old 10-13-2014, 06:29 PM   #44
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Thanks, Aluminuminum. That's great info.
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Old 10-13-2014, 09:26 PM   #45
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The covers on several of the winders/latches on mine are so rusty they aren't recoverable. Deep pits when the rust remover gets through with them. Strangely, the interiors are in pretty good shape with one or two exceptions.
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Old 10-24-2014, 09:11 PM   #46
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I just got the Vulkem 116 to use in the side panel replacement along with gaskets and window catches to cinch down the new window I put in back. I'll be posting pics soon, I hope.
I was surprised to find the channels on the side panels that the interior walls rivet into are anything but parallel to the floor. The neat line of rivets on the side that looks parallel to the window frames - aren't parallel at all. Who knew? It shows the Caravel was built by hand.
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Old 10-25-2014, 03:53 AM   #47
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After lunch a few beers and a shot or two! Like the aluminum and the thought but the quality or craftsmanship is just not there! Before you say it and I know you will! Yes these trailers have held up for decades but most of them sat still or under a cover of some sort for those decades! Still love them and will fix what I find and make my own screw ups!
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Old 10-25-2014, 10:32 AM   #48
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I think you have the right of it: a happy lunch, then put the channels in. On the other hand, it is hard to find a trailer as stout as the Airstream. Years ago, I pulled a Globetrotter on many a forest 'road' with nary a problem except for having to put everything back on the shelves when some of the cabinet doors opened on particularly rough roads.
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Old 10-25-2014, 11:04 AM   #49
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Design awesome assembly some have minor problems and some are more what the hell? Think that QC had a fun supervisor!
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Old 11-06-2014, 09:13 PM   #50
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Progress

Real glass in the rear window and new catches. Drilling the screws out to get the old catches out was not fun.
A shot of the open side of the Caravel after the old side was removed, followed by a shot of the new side tacked into place. The sealant used on the panel was a black tape that reminds me of the 3M caulk used on auto bodies. Still sticky after 40+ years.
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Old 11-07-2014, 02:45 AM   #51
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For me it is the panel on the curb side! You did an awesome job I am hoping that the son in law comes down this weekend to help buck!
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Old 11-07-2014, 07:01 AM   #52
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My wife and I are hoping to rivet the side in this weekend. I haven't figured out how to form the trim around the edge of the wheel cut out yet. I also learned that it helps to have someone inside the trailer with a piece of wood handy to buck the holes as you drill in the areas where there are unsupported panels that over lap. Lessons every day!

How are you handling the door on the curb side? I have to do that side next.
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Old 11-07-2014, 01:46 PM   #53
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I removed the retaining pin that holds the hinge pin in and sprayed like a can of WD 40 on the hinge pin bought a piece of steel rod smaller than the pin and it has started to move. Have to remove the hinge any way so apart I can replace the pop rivets they used on the hinge also have to fix the door and replace the bolt lock also. Son in law is helping and he is starting to enjoy it! Will post some pictures soon!
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:53 PM   #54
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Bummer

Got the panel up, checked to see that it hung well on the frame, drilled the rivet holes and used clecos and screws to check the fit. Did the riveting today and wound up with a bulge in the lower part of the panel. There had been a bulge in the old skin forward of the replacement panel with rivets that did not extend to the rib. I don't know if that contributed to the bulge in the replacement, but we did make sure that the rivets all went into the frame. I will see if I can make this work. If not, I guess a re-replacement is in order.
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:01 PM   #55
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Got the panel on the cutting went well but the door rivets are longer then I had so ordered some from granger! If you need some I have plenty just want postage! Needed 20 smallest qty 250!!!!
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Old 11-11-2014, 07:19 AM   #56
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Glad the panel went well. Save some rivets for me as I will be doing that side sooner or later. I'll PM you in a day or so to get addresses done.
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Old 11-11-2014, 05:30 PM   #57
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They are scheduled to arrive here on the 13th so I will sent you some as soon as they arrive I had to use the back or blunt end of a chisel as a bucking bar in the groove of the door frame.
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Old 11-17-2014, 10:17 AM   #58
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Street Side

Here's the shot of the street side riveted into place. Now to rivet it into the belly pan. Wheel well opening still to go.
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Old 11-17-2014, 01:47 PM   #59
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Looks real good! I did order the 3/16th rivets and will be sending you some rivets tomorrow. I have to trim the wheel well on the street side and finish the wheel well on the curb side.
Cliff
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Old 11-17-2014, 05:46 PM   #60
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How are you doing the trim on the wheel well? I haven't come up with a good method yet. I am going to try heating the (possible) trim as I try to form it, hoping to keep it from breaking. I made relief cuts on the back side but the J part wants to split.
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