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Old 06-30-2014, 09:06 PM   #29
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Floor and mysteries

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ID:	215301I got the floor in with some finish work to do like finishing the bolting up and replacing some of the channel.

Along the way I came up with some mysterious 'rivets' in the front. They don't oxidize like the regular rivets do. There are also some odd little patches of aluminum riveted in the front. All on the same side, all between the cap and the body panel. Anyone got ideas? Pictures below.
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Old 06-30-2014, 09:09 PM   #30
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The mysteries

Should have uploaded all at once!
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Old 07-01-2014, 05:37 AM   #31
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Looks to be a not so well planned leak repair using pop rivets the tabs are weird but it must have worked for them. I do not think that airstream would use pop rivets on the shell. Damn it looks good! My bucking buddy is just not schedule friendly so shell on not bucked yet. Keep it going you are helping my motivation! I am just wondering if I can teach my 7 year old granddaughter how to hold a bucking bar?
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:47 AM   #32
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The tabs look original with all the seam sealer still on them. We are not to the rivet bucking stage but my wife says she is willing to give it a try. I think I will drill out all those weird rivets and replace with bucked in rivets. That will be a good training ground for the really serious stuff. I don't mind Olympic rivets in non-stress areas, but I want the bucked in rivets where strength is important.
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:53 AM   #33
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I had the same problem on my 65 Caravel. I noticed a dent on the street side front curve that joins the lower and upper compound cured panels together. After removing the interior panels I noticed the same little tabs that you described on the seam with the dent.

The factory cut one of the panels short, not allowing the upper and lower panels to overlap enough for a rivet to join them both together so they just riveted a little tab to hold one panel against the other. It's a lazy, cheap fix by the factory and I was really disappointed to see it.

My fix was to drill out all of the rivets from one rib to the next rib and re-rivet a 1/16th inch thick bar over the seam and then seal it up. No more dent, very stiff and solid seam.
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:07 PM   #34
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Thanks, Sheridan. It does look like the panels are a bit shy of a good overlap. I like your fix idea.
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Old 09-25-2014, 10:27 PM   #35
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Okay, most of the belly pan is in and my wife and I started bucking rivets on the ends. The two sides are going to need replacement so I am getting the ends done before starting the side removal. I also patched the shower - wash stand - toilet porch where the toilet had broken the fiberglass. It looks like I can put a 3/4" board between the black tank and the fiberglass so the closet flange has something to attach to and the weight of the toilet (and occupant) don't go directly onto the black tank. Trial fits are in the future for that one.

One last question for now: does anyone have a lead on a bucking bar narrow enough to fit into the door frame so the rivets there can be bucked? The curbside panel needs replacement which means the door is part of the riveting job. I definitely do not want olympic rivets into the door frame if I can figure out a way to use bucked rivets.
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Old 09-26-2014, 04:54 AM   #36
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Sounds unusual but the back end of a chisel (blunt) or flat stock will work with aluminum buck rivets had the same issue with a different project and yes I have to replace that panel also but gonna buy the help of a teen in the subdivision. Will be using a large Allen wrench I found for a bucking bar in the tight spots already size tested it and fits perfectly.
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Old 09-26-2014, 04:23 PM   #37
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Cool idea that Allen wrench. I'll have to sift through the tools and scrap for likely bucking bars.
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:18 PM   #38
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That is how I discovered the Allen wrench I was desperate and the chisel was there! The Allen wrench fit in the channel so it is for use with the door! Thanks
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Old 09-26-2014, 07:10 PM   #39
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Now I am trying to figure out how to bend the new sides so they fit but don't put so much stress on the rivets in the belly pan. There is an addition to the side panel on each side and the removal of the rivets in the belly pan had them literally spring open. It seems to me that a little bending of those 'wings' would be a good thing.
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Old 09-26-2014, 07:16 PM   #40
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I also did a trial fit on the 6 gallon Atwood water heater today. There really wasn't much tinkering necessary to get it in so I could mark where the hole for the gas line should go. A little progress is a good thing.
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Old 10-13-2014, 03:36 PM   #41
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I finished putting the clips on the windows today. In theory, they are held on by spring pressure and can be removed by just working them down and off the window. Mine were rusted on to the point I thought I would break the window before the clip/catch came off. A few also had been siliconed in place. Enter the trusty Dremel tool. I scored the bottom of each clip being careful not to hit the glass. It weakened the spring action of the clip enough that the clip came off the window with little effort.

Unfortunately, the effort I saved is being spent drilling a few screws so I can remove the latch mechanisms for replacing or rebuilding. Only two or three of the latches are so far gone with rust that I will have to replace them. Rust remover cleans the others to the point of being presentable. Rust remover also cleaned off the rust stains that were in the shower pan.

Sorry no pics.
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Old 10-13-2014, 03:56 PM   #42
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That's not cool where is the fun of no pictures? But good job anyway and thanks for the tip mine are soon!
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