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Old 03-13-2014, 11:11 PM   #15
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Just for you, Cliff.
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These aren't the latest. They are just what I am using to help put things back together when that time comes.
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Old 03-14-2014, 04:42 AM   #16
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I love it looks good but the clearance, stop lights are run from under the floor on ours and the univolt was located near the front street side where the utility access is. I would put the pictures up but not on the iPad. Just got the iPad with the camera. Thank you for sharing.
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Old 03-15-2014, 10:29 PM   #17
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Yeah. The green clearance wires are under the floor here too. That black wire is a mystery wire going to ???? Those wires aren't going to remain under the floor when I rewire except for the brake wires. I also found the clearance wire coiled in the center of the front and rear caps, enough wire to run a whole string of lights. Only wire like that. All the rest was pretty much cut to fit.
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Old 03-16-2014, 04:42 AM   #18
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Same thing with the coil of spare wire and we figured it was done that way for the installation of front and rear clearance markers which our does not and will not have. I thought about running the tow or trailer wires inside vice outside but opted for running flex conduit under the floor to make the tow wires easier access. I am however not reinstalling the bottom port for the shore power and water connect and instead we are going with a shell port for both. I have reached the breaking point with the weather and will be doing something this coming weekend. Pictures will be added.
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Old 03-16-2014, 04:54 AM   #19
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I noticed by your wheel wells that it looks like the street side was damaged by a blowout or something. I had damage from an axle break so I had the hvac fab shop make some new ones which they did with out rivets and they came out nice. I wanted to replace the fresh water tank because mine and yours look the same but Jeannie wants to try cleaning it. I did replace the fresh water port because the plastic cap was in such bad shape and the corrosion inside the port made me feel better to replace it.
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Old 03-16-2014, 09:49 AM   #20
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I had new wheel wells made as the old ones were rusted beyond repair as well as damaged from blow outs. I am going to replace the side panels as they are torn on the street side and the curb side has small tears and the exit for the old furnace.

I did a weld repair on the water tank as there was some kind of gouging on the bottom that actually got through the plastic. I am still not sure I will use it as it is pretty dirty inside from what I can see. The (metal) filler is in pretty good shape but the hole through the shell for it is torn up and needs a patch.

I will order a new black tank from VTS as the old one is really butchered up. The bath will need a fiberglass repair under the toilet as that is torn.

We are now officially in the windy season so gusts to 45 - 50 mph are common. I have been working on the interior of the trailer when one of those gusts hit and I thought it might go air born. I've bolted the shell to the frame for the windy season. No floor install for a while yet.

As for the wiring, are you splitting off the brake/light harness and running it under the floor but running the 12v to the vehicle above the floor? I didn't like the leads crossing the frame to get from the pigtail on the curb side to the polarity checker on the street side. I still am far away from physically getting to that problem. I also didn't care for the clearance lights wires coming into the shell at two different points. It may make sense to keep it the way Airstream did it, I am likely to use the idea of the port for water/electrical entry, but the idea of putting the water and 120V entries in the shell is interesting.
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Old 03-16-2014, 03:04 PM   #21
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To my understanding the 120 and water are now run through the shell and as for the recharge line there are holes in the frame for this line and I will be using the flex plastic sleeve and grommets I picked up at harbor freight. I have been toying with the idea of recessing a panel behind the access door that way I can add a layer of protection and maintain the original look of the caravel. Only replacing the curb side panel (hardest of the two because of the door and awning) but will be done.
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Old 03-16-2014, 11:06 PM   #22
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I found there was a channel for the floor board at the back, but no where else. The majority of the channel for the floor is a simple C channel that sits on the floor, no channel that the floor slides into until you get to the back. To make it interesting, the channel doesn't quite measure 3/4" high. Fun.

The water and 120V run through the shell on the Argosy. It is convenient to have all that at the rear. The layout of the Caravel black tank would make running the water and 120 lines a PITA but it makes storage of the land line out of the trailer easy. The access panel with its through the floor port is workable, but not the best solution IMHO.
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:25 AM   #23
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I am adding a Furrion 30A inlet in the same hole under the Caravel as the plastic tube was. It will be a water tight connection with no additional holes drilled in the side. It will allow the cable to be stored anywhere I choose, inside or outside the trailer. I am also going to drill a smaller hole just behind the electrical for the plumbing and install a stainless fresh water inlet. Both will be under the trailer, so no connections showing on the side. I need to upload pictures when I get a chance.
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:32 AM   #24
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Pictures would be much appreciated.
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:57 PM   #25
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I only have 2 issues with installing things under the belly pan 1. Night time hookups in wet conditions and 2. Snags where on rare occasions the belly pan will rub a high dirt mound with rocks. By removing the through port on the bottom I am hoping to block one more entrance for unwanted guest and the panel behind the door will make for easy access. Just my thoughts.
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Old 03-21-2014, 08:22 PM   #26
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Points well taken. Gotta think about it a bit.
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Old 06-21-2014, 09:46 AM   #27
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I have been looking for the picture that I know that I took to the piece I had bent to replace that piece in the back but have not located it yet it is 4.5 feet long angle aluminum .032 bent 1 3/4 inch high 4 inch wide which goes between the floor and frame then I coated the 4inch wide area with undercoat on the side that is on the frame. Hope that this helps a little.
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Old 06-21-2014, 09:49 AM   #28
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Fridge scoop is going to be wood with a coat of resin on the inside. The lueon will hold the curve when wet and when it drys I will have the sides on to make it permanent . Hope it works out better than it sounds I have a friend that is a master carpenter and he wants to make it.
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