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Old 05-15-2013, 05:14 PM   #15
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1965 17' Caravel
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You do have some frame damage! I would leave it where it sits and call the welder out. If the main I beam is still in good shape you can weld to it, but I would just replace those cross members. They are thin anyway and you can go back with a thicker beam. I had similar problems with my '65, but yours looks worse. Clean the metal, weld those new beam in. Clean again, then POR 15 it.

BTW, that black tank looks like it was put in upside down!
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:09 PM   #16
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Good call on the black tank. Upon farther inspection I'm pretty sure it was put in upside down.
I towed the trailer over to a shop and going to wield new cross members in.

I also ordered a new Axis axel and the place is going to install it for a grand total of 540 bucks.

Pretty sure I got a break on that one but that said its about the only break I have gotten since tearing into the thing.
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Old 06-08-2013, 05:21 PM   #17
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I pulled out the water heater and I'm guessing the sealant around the opening is the famous vulkem everyone is talking about?
My question is white the color everyone uses or do I have choices?
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Old 06-08-2013, 08:46 PM   #18
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I used gray butyl on the water heater install. I use gray Vulkem but not on the water heater. Lowes in Sioux Falls stocked it last year. Not sure about now.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:56 AM   #19
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I don't know if it is upside down or just an aftermarket or special model because it does not look like the standard Caravel black tank. I have the shell off and have set a goal to have the belley pan and the old floor out by Friday if the weather holds. Glad that I did a shell off because the U or some call it C channel sits on top of the floor and I have to replace it. good luck on the project.
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:34 AM   #20
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1965 17' Caravel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanlessrm View Post
I pulled out the water heater and I'm guessing the sealant around the opening is the famous vulkem everyone is talking about?
My question is white the color everyone uses or do I have choices?
Vulkem used to come in gray. Vintage Trailer Supply had on their website a few months back that Vulkem has been discontinued. The new replacement that is suppose to be even better is TremPro 635. It comes in gray also and is available at VTS. I have used it and it has worked great for my needs.

That said, I still used the gray butyl for the water heater also. It works better for some situations where a uniform wide seal is appropriate.
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:56 AM   #21
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Vulkem 116 Gray



Tremco 10.1-oz. Gray Vulkem 116 Polyurethane Sealant-7103006 at The Home Depot



`
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:59 AM   #22
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That must be a different formula. Here is the link on the subject from VTS...

Vulkem Discontinued
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Old 06-16-2013, 07:04 PM   #23
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Well I finally got a wielder out to add some support and touch up a few spots.
New floor starts tomorrow.
Wish I could of used the old floor as a template but it fell apart.
Any good ideas on what to use for a pattern in the corners?
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:28 PM   #24
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I have attached photos of the floor I slipped in under the c channel and it looks like the back in is propped up higher. Should that gap be there and what do I do to cover it all up?

Thanks Ryan
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:48 PM   #25
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It looks like a PO has customized that back hatch. The hinge is suppose to have a piece of metal that extends under the plywood floor. Probably the reason it has been altered is because it is an inherent design flaw with all airstreams this vintage. Water traps under the back, so somebody tried to separate the pieces to allow water to drain back there. Not such a bad idea, but the wood should not be exposed. This does not look to be well done. Several things here... I would paint or epoxy at least the edges of the plywood to keep the water from wicking into the wood. Next, I would fabricate a sort of flashing with aluminum that will keep water from entering that area. It could be wrapped around the end of the wood before it is shoved under the U cannel. Your photos show the banana wraps still attached. These will have to come off to access the bolts at the U Channel for replacement. That means the molding has to come off too. Once all this is removed, you can access the area better in that area. It will be best to replace the banana wrap with new aluminum, making patterns from the old banana wrap. Use plenty of Trempro in the area back there when all is put back together. One thing to note is that the gap back there will lessen when the floor is bolted down. However I would not start that process until some of the other issues are addressed.
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:52 PM   #26
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Mine had an "L" shaped piece that went under the box hinge and under the rub rail. It was only as long as the box and looked factory.
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