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Old 09-24-2011, 06:10 AM   #43
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1964 17' Bambi II
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I bought some rods & tried them out on a scrap of aluminum. Way too scary to try on the side of my Bambi II that has a corrosion hole. We made an even bigger mess of the scrap than what we started with. You can very easily burn a larger hole in your skin than what was there. Also, you'll be dealing with a vertical plane (unless you can tip your trailer on the side) I would just use the rivets where rivets came out. Simple, simple solution. Larger holes are another story.
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Old 09-24-2011, 06:39 AM   #44
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1959 26' Overlander
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Bruce-

Really quick reply -- on my way to our first grandchild's first birthday party!

In you list of things, don't forget a grey tank. You may also want to consider moving the angle iron in the frame, just above the axle. It will let you put two equal size tanks there.

Also like the idea of rivets to repair the small holes. Olympics with vulkem, not o-rings.

John
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:13 PM   #45
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1966 17' Caravel
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Curbside inner panel removal

Finally had a little time and was really curious to see what was hidden underneath the inner skin.

First pic - the little 5k btu LG a/c to keep thing cool.

Second - decided to get some light weight Bosch cordless drills. Plenty powerful enough, good battery life and pretty quick recharge. The small size proved to be a real asset for getting in tight spaces and the light weight was great for overhead work.

Third - curbside panels removed and placed in front of trailer.

Fourth - refer vent - notice the light flooding in around the outside. No wonder things got a little damp inside when it rained. I'll be replacing all those screws with Olympic rivets.

Bruce
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Old 09-26-2011, 08:21 AM   #46
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Looks like you're getting a serious case of Aluminitis!

Interesting that your wiring is Romex. The '65 was shielded BX cable.

The wiring isn't aluminum, is it?
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:06 AM   #47
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
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1955 22' Safari
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Stay with it!

I just picked up on your thread here...interesting. My guess on the floor situation is that the original rotted flooring was to big a problem for the original owner. The "C" channel/ elevator bolt/ plywood replacement was to much for him. He elected to put the overlay plywood on as a "repair" and then had to fasten it down....and because the original was so rotted at all sides where it attaches the frame/"C" channel/ shell....the water tank, the door and water heater, the toilet and the electrical/plumbing access, ....the two by fours were added to provided a base to screw down the overlay to thru the old floor to the frame. It does not make sense but that is what I am seeing in the pics. Next,, a suggestion...after putting in insulation and laying out the wiring don't just put up the interior with a few screws or rivets. There will be no need to get in the walls again. Do it right...do it once. Replace all the wiring...period. And.....keep the shell away from that tree in the driveway. The first storm will brush it against the shell and ruin that great skin you have there.
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Old 09-27-2011, 01:55 AM   #48
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1966 17' Caravel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65CV View Post
The wiring isn't aluminum, is it?
Yep, everything exposed so far seems to be aluminum.

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Replace all the wiring...period.
'Agree, copper it is! I vaguely recalled some issues with aluminum wiring, but until I did a quick google search I had no idea of the severity of the problems. Thanks for the tips 65CV and Melody Ranch!


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..after putting in insulation and laying out the wiring don't just put up the interior with a few screws or rivets. There will be no need to get in the walls again. Do it right...do it once.
That is the most efficient way. I've just got to make absolutely sure everything is run correctly.

I haven't looked very closely yet but there doesn't seem to be any wiring for the 12VDC system between the walls in my Caravel. Does anyone have photos or diagrams of their 12 volt wiring? 65CV provided some great schematics and it would be really helpful in my attempt to keep this rebuild pretty true to stock to see the actual routing of the wires.

Bruce
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Old 09-27-2011, 05:58 AM   #49
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brusby

On my 66TW the 12v wiring is aluminum. You will find it in the ceiling cavity to power the lights and the vent fan.

Dan
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:06 AM   #50
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'65 Electrical Schematic

Bruce,

Somewhere on the web is a pdf of the 1965 Airstream Caravel manual. The attached scan is from that manual. TouringDan is right -- not much 12 volt wiring. Just fans and a few lights.

I'll zip it up and email it if it is helpful.

I am SO glad that aluminum wiring is going. It's really bad stuff!

John
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:14 AM   #51
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'Agree, copper it is! I vaguely recalled some issues with aluminum wiring, but until I did a quick google search I had no idea of the severity of the problems.

Bruce
Issues with aluminum wiring is not with the product but with the improper use of copper rated fixtures with aluminum wires (mixing apples and oranges). If there was a real hazard (way above normal) then every older AS would have burned to the ground.

For your project, since you are doing a complete referb, then it makes sense to replace all the aluminum wiring with copper since the copper rated outlets, breakers, fixtures are what you will be buying. It's the partial referbs that this can be an issue for.

Don't mix copper and aluminum wires and parts.
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:35 AM   #52
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Forget looking for an original wiring diagram. Your wide open now...just run your wiring where you want it to be....from the fixture/outlets to the converter position....
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:16 PM   #53
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1966 17' Caravel
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I have original specs of mine. I will scan and upload tonight.
We have ours in shop for about a year, new axles, taking out some gas lines?
The shop owner thinks we paid too much, and we shouldn't put much more into it. He thinks we should get a 21 ft.
Well, I think the Caravel is an perfect size for 2.5 folks, less gas to pull...
I'm anxious to get it back. However husband crashed TV and we just have a Nissan Frontier, and RAV 4.
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Old 04-10-2012, 01:43 AM   #54
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Why go from 17 to 21ft - that's a lot of trouble for only 4 more feet! I've gotten the same questions from folks, they seem to think the little trailer is just a 'starter' home. We still love ours after 9 years, and the money we invested was completely worthwhile. Sometimes I think a fullsize bed would be a nice upgrade, but there's something so cozy and homey about it just the way it is, I hate the thought of giving it up for something bigger. The original owner kept it 28 years, so apparently he felt the same way
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:34 PM   #55
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Why go from 17 to 21ft - that's a lot of trouble for only 4 more feet! I've gotten the same questions from folks, they seem to think the little trailer is just a 'starter' home. We still love ours after 9 years, and the money we invested was completely worthwhile. Sometimes I think a fullsize bed would be a nice upgrade, but there's something so cozy and homey about it just the way it is, I hate the thought of giving it up for something bigger. The original owner kept it 28 years, so apparently he felt the same way
I agree, I think he didn't realize I really shopped around a long time and had an idea of prices and what's available in my area, and the sizes we wanted. Hubby originally wanted a 14 ft.! I think it is just right for us. Granted, we will put more money into it, but if we can do much of it ourselves, maybe we can keep it under 10 grand altogether. It came with original but damaged everything. Yes, the wood has been patched, there's slight water damage to cabinets and bathroom abs is slightly cracked...the upholstery rubber foam disintegrated and fabric rotted on parts, stove doesn't work. Sigh* I'm determined to go camping this year now that the axle has been replaced.

Jerri
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:49 AM   #56
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It looks to me that some previous owner had frame problems and made a new one that is not even remotely close to the original. It looks like a lot of solid steel and angle iron with the 2X4's attached in order to give an attachment point for the belly pan.
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