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Old 01-15-2017, 06:21 AM   #15
1 Rivet Member
1971 25' Tradewind
Leicester , North Carolina
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 8
Spent about 4 hours yesterday and finally go the rear flooring out. Same combination of bolts, screw and rivets with lots of grinder and drill work. Actually looks like the rear roadside corner was repaired at some time in the past.

Others have mentioned putting in three pieces of flooring when you don't remove the shell: one piece along the sides into the corners, and one rectangular piece in the middle. That way they can all slide in. I took a different approach. I cut out an 18-inch wide strip from wall to wall at the battery compartment across to the water heater. Then I was able to remove the whole rear piece as a single unit by sliding it toward the front into that 18-inch wide gap. Replacement will be the opposite, and I have minimal additional bracing to do. Here's a couple photos.

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Strip from battery compartment to water heater removed.

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Whole rear floor removed. I have some frame work to do, as the rear cross brace is about gone. A foot or so of the main frame is also pretty rusty.

I don't understand how Airstream thought the bumper details would make a water-tight joint. I don't see a good way to do it, so I will have to ponder this a bit. The corner skins are about 3/4 inch above the bumper, but the center rear skin is in contact with the bumper. Is this normal, or part of the prior repairs? Can I cut some off the bottom to help make a water-proof junction? Photo below.

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My son is stopping by today to talk about adding a gray water tank, and how to rebuild the interior. Maybe he's also checking on the quality of my work.

Lumatic, a closer look at my furnace shows an NT32C.

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Old 08-29-2017, 06:25 PM   #16
1 Rivet Member
1971 25' Tradewind
Leicester , North Carolina
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 8
Took a long break to go west in our new non-AS toy hauler. Did a big loop from NC to NM, up to Idaho and back stopping at several national parks. Had so much fun, we'll do it again next summer.

Now its back to working on my son's AS. Had a welding shop fix the back end of frame. Put POR paint on all exposed framing. Put new gaskets on the windows, then upon re-installation I found out that some rivets in the hinge strip at the top of the windows were loose. So I have to pull off the new gaskets and fix the rivets. I have also added some sealant around roof vents and other openings trying to get leaks stopped. All new LED marker lights to address potential leaks and damaged lights.

Got the new bathroom floor in today. It looks like the rear, road-side corner of this AS has been extensively repaired at some time. The tail light didn't fit right and took some reworking. I think the rear hold down angle iron was not even in the right place. It was at an angle, so I think the corner was repaired with existing floor damage, and the hold down metal was just stuffed in.

I wrapped the rear, curved edge of the new flooring with foil-faced window flashing, and coated the entire top and bottom of the floor from front to back with two coats of Bora-Care. Now I need to work on flashing and waterproofing the rear-wall/frame intersection.

I went to buy a roll of A/C duct wrap insulation today to use in the walls and floor, but it was $212 for a 4 ft by 75 ft roll. So I skipped it to think about alternatives. Then we stopped by a Habitat Restore on the way home and lucked into two pieces of flex duct with R-8 insulation for $30. The insulation is higher density and thinner that that used in house walls, and should fit nicely in the AS walls and under the floor. The insulation in piece of duct is about 36 inches by 25 feet, so I should have enough to do what I need.

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Old 03-08-2019, 01:45 PM   #17
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Seneca , South Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 4
thanks for offering to answer questions, in the process of restoring 72 Trade Winds Twin, not going back to original, got everything out but interior skins, electrical was working when I got it, questions I have
1. what suppliers for possible interior skin replacement, I can paint whats there now and probably will but wanted to know what other options, have spent lots of time on line looking for options but not seeing it, I've seen some pictures of aluminum skins but not sure where to get pricing and what would work best.
2. I tore out bathroom and have drawn up new layout in rear, I hear people mention moving bath to middle of trailer but haven't really seen designs, there are windows and the wheel wells to contend with, I'm going to go with Composting toilet, and not sure if I should figure out placement for gray water tank or just use portable tank, don't plan on making lots of grey water but if I could figure out how to do a tank may concider. VTS has the 4" tank that could fit in frame below floor but not sure if it is worth doing. I got it now so that all the water drains down drivers side to rear thats with kitchen sink shower and bath sink, also the fresh water tank had some holes and I removed it and am debating putting it back as well. I am also trying to not get trailer too heavy because Im not going back with the cabinetry that was in there, ie. 1/4" panelling with Aluminum trim.
3. How can I tell if the axles are ok, I have pulled the trailer a few times short distances.

4. I hear people talk about rear sag, not sure how to tell if this is a problem for me or not, yes the floor was rotten on the very back a few inches back from back wall, I ve cut out and was planing on re installing subflooring under wall, it seems the only solution Ive seen for preventing the water infillation is caulk the heck out of it, I got some ideas for this but looking for any ideas from others,
I have other questions but don't want to overload you, thanks for your time if you can advise me, sincerely,Ed
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Old 03-12-2019, 03:28 PM   #18
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1972 25' Tradewind
Chattanooga , Tennessee
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 162
Images: 21
Good, hard, long, and expensive work, but I really enjoyed doing mine a few years ago. Check out my story in this area. Chatthayer in Chattanooga Tennessee

Steve and Tobie Thayer
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