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tamvalleyman · 07-22-2015, 08:30 PM

Hello all....i just bought a 1976 25ft TW......i have been cutting everything and treating the frame with por15.......i am having problems getting some of the wood out of the c-channel.....the bolts are rusted and I ground down the rusted bolts that hold wood to c channel but i am still having problems pulling the wood from the c channel.

J. Morgan · 07-22-2015, 08:52 PM

If you are not pulling the shell off, you will probably want to replace the plywood one sheet at a time so the shell wont "drop" into the area where the wood is.

Likely the shell wants to fall and it is clamping the wood keeping you from being able to pull it out.

HiJoeSilver · 07-22-2015, 11:43 PM

Yep, if the channel still has the weight of the shell on it it'll put pressure on the channel pinching the wood in. Cut the wood as close as you can to the channel then you'll have to pry/dig out the stuff in the channel. Section at a time otherwise the channel won't have anything from collapsing on itself. Once out put some small pieces in the channel under the ribs for support until you're ready to get new plywood in there.

tamvalleyman · 07-31-2015, 12:08 PM

I am replacing the flooring in my airstream without taking off the shell.....I have removed the 2 front sub flooring boards to trailer....treated frame with por 15 and ready to put in new freshwater holding tank and new floors.....treated plywood for the sub floor should do fine for replacement correct..any ideas

Belegedhel · 07-31-2015, 02:00 PM

What do you mean by "treated" plywood? If you mean that it is pressure treated or "wolmanized", then you want to avoid it, as not only is it loaded with arsenic that you might not want in close proximity to living areas, but the chemicals in it are very corrosive when put next to aluminum.

Most people just take construction grade plywood and load the outer edges, and at least the ~8" or so along the edge with polyurethane to help it be less absorbant. I did mine from edge to edge top and bottom.

good luck!

nrgtrakr · 07-31-2015, 02:14 PM

No green wood. Exterior, marine grade or for signs - yes.

Not Done · 07-31-2015, 02:23 PM

You asked for ideas... here's what I did.

I "treated" the plywood myself with an outdoor rated sealer.

You'll encounter a problem when you install your new floor. The top lip of the channel will prevent a properly sized single sheet of plywood form fitting INTO the channel.

I cut my plywood such that I used three pieces to span the width of the floor.

brief explanation: my "side" pieces were cut to the fit the distance from the main frame to the inside of the channel. I installed both of these pieces first which was essentially laying them on the floor and shoving them into the channel. Then the "middle" piece was sized to fit snuggly between the side pieces and was simply dropped into place. It solved the problem of fitting a board through an opening a couple inches smaller than the board.

FYI, I also sistered some channel material along the frame so I didn't have screws so close to the edge of my plywood.

That was 7 years ago. No problems.

While I was at it I tucked the belly pan INSIDE the sidewalls so water would run on the outside rather than onto the wood flooring, imagine that. I did this on the front and rear as it was not practical for me to do it on the sides. For the sides I removed the exterior trim and put a piece of aluminum tape over the seam. Then reinstalled the trim. I considered writing a letter to the Mother ship explaining the basic effect of gravity on water but I decided not to.

John

Danny Z · 08-05-2015, 07:14 AM

tamvalleyman, I have the same year and make as you. When you tore out the flooring did you happen to find a grey or auxiliary tank anywhere? I have heard conflicting opinions about weather this year had one and where it was located and figured I'd ask before I started tearing up the floor looking.
Thanks.

tamvalleyman · 08-05-2015, 09:34 AM

thank you guys for the input.....alot of Good information.....
Danny i have pulled the floor back to 1st axel......i pulled all the kitchen out and appliances.....1 fresh water tank was located under the section right as you walk in the trailer to the oven/stove .....i have not come across an grey water tank yet....

HiJoeSilver · 08-05-2015, 10:13 PM

Gray water tank will be under the floor above a belly pan that supports it. The pan will be galvanized steel vs aluminum and sit below the overall belly pan bottom, should be easy to spot. I think that in 72'ish they became mandatory by the EPA so a 76 should have grey tank. Not 100% sure but pretty close. It'll be aft of wheels.

Not Done · 08-06-2015, 09:17 AM

You can locate the gray water tank by looking for the vent pipe on the roof. The tank should be directly below that. No vent means no tank, I assume.

Belegedhel · 08-06-2015, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Not Done

You can locate the gray water tank by looking for the vent pipe on the roof. The tank should be directly below that. No vent means no tank, I assume.

Not a sure way to tell... My '73 has two vents, one for black tank, and one for the grey water system, but there is no grey tank--didn't put them in my model in '73.

The story is that Airstream put the first grey tanks only in the Excella models in 1973, but started putting grey tanks in all the models in 1974. So if you have a '76, then you should have a grey tank, though it may be small, assuming the previous owner hasn't made any mods. The grey tank will have to be below the floor, and will in the aft part of the trailer, behind the axles.

nrgtrakr · 08-08-2015, 09:55 AM

My 75 has three vents ...
• one midship curb side for the kitchen sink
• one rear curb side for shower and bath sink (not above the gray tank but close)
• one rear street side for the black tank (also not really directly above the tank)

Danny Z · 08-08-2015, 04:28 PM

Thanks guys. Looks like the PO removed the black and grey tanks.As long as you are talking about vents, quick question: I have a plastic hose coming out of the street side just behind the tires. It goes up to the ceiling and just stops. Maybe it fed into an old AC unit??? Before I remove it I wanted to double check and make sure that it wasn't necessary for removing condensation or something like that in the inner walls. Thanks.

Belegedhel · 08-08-2015, 05:21 PM

Well, if that black plastic tube is about 1/2" or 5/8" and terminates in the vicinity of where an AC unit would be, then yes, it is probably a condensate tube. I wouldn't remove it. If you don't need it, just ignore it, you nevver know when you or the next owner might want to install an AC.

good luck!

Danny Z · 08-08-2015, 11:51 PM

So glad I checked! Thanks Belegedhel!

Danny Z · 08-09-2015, 09:27 AM

Just to be clear, I do have a working AC, but the hose was not attached to it. Dose it need to be? Or just in the vicinity? Thanks.

Belegedhel · 08-09-2015, 01:28 PM

The original AC units (I'm talking vintage trailers) were built so that they had a pan to catch condensate and funnel it down the internal condensate drain tube rather than just letting it drip out onto the roof and running down the side. If the original has been replaced, then there are certain AC units and certain "catch pans" available. For example, for a while (apparently) the only AC unit you could get that would fit into the "factory" plastic drain pan was the Dometic Penguins. So you would need the right AC installed in a pan (and the pan connects to the drain tube). Now, a kit is available that looks like a couple of cups that install under the condensate drop holes under most AC units, and it has hoses that connect the cups to the condesnate drain tube internally.

So if you want your AC unit to drain down the condensate tube, and not just drip onto the outside of your trailer, there needs to be some mechanism for catching the condensate and funneling it into the condensate drain.

good luck!

tamvalleyman · 08-14-2015, 01:11 PM

I have a 1976 tw and i am replacing the floors. I have pulled the skins off underneath. The aluminum from the outer skin meets what looks like to be steal metal sheeting which was used for the underneath of the trailer as far as skins go. Am i right ? Well the edges of this skn are corroded and i am wondering if i should just replace these underneath skins with new sheet metal skins.....any ideas

Belegedhel · 08-14-2015, 05:27 PM

Underside of the trailer is normally made of aluminum sheet. It is referred to as the belly pan. They do get corroded, especially where they are in contact with steel. If your underside is made of steel sheet metal, then it might be the work of a previous owner. Replacement is no big deal, just part of the fun.

Good luck!