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Old 08-08-2015, 05:21 PM   #15
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Well, if that black plastic tube is about 1/2" or 5/8" and terminates in the vicinity of where an AC unit would be, then yes, it is probably a condensate tube. I wouldn't remove it. If you don't need it, just ignore it, you nevver know when you or the next owner might want to install an AC.

good luck!
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Old 08-08-2015, 11:51 PM   #16
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So glad I checked! Thanks Belegedhel!
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Old 08-09-2015, 09:27 AM   #17
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Just to be clear, I do have a working AC, but the hose was not attached to it. Dose it need to be? Or just in the vicinity? Thanks.
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Old 08-09-2015, 01:28 PM   #18
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The original AC units (I'm talking vintage trailers) were built so that they had a pan to catch condensate and funnel it down the internal condensate drain tube rather than just letting it drip out onto the roof and running down the side. If the original has been replaced, then there are certain AC units and certain "catch pans" available. For example, for a while (apparently) the only AC unit you could get that would fit into the "factory" plastic drain pan was the Dometic Penguins. So you would need the right AC installed in a pan (and the pan connects to the drain tube). Now, a kit is available that looks like a couple of cups that install under the condensate drop holes under most AC units, and it has hoses that connect the cups to the condesnate drain tube internally.

So if you want your AC unit to drain down the condensate tube, and not just drip onto the outside of your trailer, there needs to be some mechanism for catching the condensate and funneling it into the condensate drain.

good luck!
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Old 08-14-2015, 01:11 PM   #19
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how to replace skin underneath

I have a 1976 tw and i am replacing the floors. I have pulled the skins off underneath. The aluminum from the outer skin meets what looks like to be steal metal sheeting which was used for the underneath of the trailer as far as skins go. Am i right ? Well the edges of this skn are corroded and i am wondering if i should just replace these underneath skins with new sheet metal skins.....any ideas
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Old 08-14-2015, 05:27 PM   #20
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Underside of the trailer is normally made of aluminum sheet. It is referred to as the belly pan. They do get corroded, especially where they are in contact with steel. If your underside is made of steel sheet metal, then it might be the work of a previous owner. Replacement is no big deal, just part of the fun.

Good luck!
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:56 AM   #21
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......

should the belly skins be replaced with aluminum or sheet metal....also can i wait to replace my axel after the floors are done...i am not sure how bad of shape they are in ....they dont look bowed or anything
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:54 PM   #22
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should the belly skins be replaced with aluminum or sheet metal....also can i wait to replace my axel after the floors are done...i am not sure how bad of shape they are in ....they dont look bowed or anything
Aluminum for the belly pan and wraps. Recommend 5052-h32, .025" thick for the belly, it's more than enough as the h32 temper really stiffens it up and the 5052 alloy is pretty corrosion resist and for road environment. I used .032" and it made wrapping the sides pretty tough especially on the long piece. Pretty sure .025" is what AS uses anyway.
Axles can be replaced any time, do it when it's most convenient for you.
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Old 08-16-2015, 11:08 PM   #23
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Thanks guys. Looks like the PO removed the black and grey tanks.As long as you are talking about vents, quick question: I have a plastic hose coming out of the street side just behind the tires. It goes up to the ceiling and just stops. Maybe it fed into an old AC unit??? Before I remove it I wanted to double check and make sure that it wasn't necessary for removing condensation or something like that in the inner walls. Thanks.
Mine wasn't connected either, and it's a good thing. When AS routed it they bent it when it had to run from where it came down to run aft to get behind the wheel wells. They didn't kink it, but ran it so it was rubbing the metal edge of one of the horizontal supports in the wall that run between the walls. This rubbed a big hole through the plastic, would have been filling the walls with condensate. Ran new line along same route but put an elbow in where the bend was to get rid of possible rubbing. Pressure tested to 80psi no leaks.
Check yours while you can.
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Old 08-17-2015, 05:15 PM   #24
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thanks for the INFO

So i have just finished gutting the trailer.....I am thinking about drilling the rivets out which hold the walls in place....i dont really want to have to do this but i am worried about dead mice nests in walls being that i have found two while gutting the trailer....the ceiling pieces that are used in the bathroom are cracked in some places....had anyone been able to reconstruct this area in such a way after removing the plastic type ceiling material used in the bathroom area?......thanks
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Old 08-17-2015, 11:06 PM   #25
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How big are the cracks in the end cap and where are they located.
Couple options depending on that. Be gentle taking it down so you don't crack it more. Depending on where how big the cracks are drill holes at the end of the crack it may help stop it from getting longer.
Almost all the cracks in mine were at the top edge where the end cap gets riveted to the ceiling. I cut a 1.5" wide strip of aluminum total of about 10' long but in several pieces. I cleaned the back of that area with solvent and sand paper and gorilla epoxied the aluminum strip along the whole length behind where the rivet holes went through. If you do this put some masking tape the other side of the rivet holes so the epoxy doesn't flow through. If the hole fills with epoxy you can just drill it through. It took a few days because I could only get a few feet done at a time before getting to the set time for the epoxy. To hold it in place I used clothes pins covered with masking tape every few inches.
For long cracks I did the same thing epoxied a strip of aluminum behind the crack. On the visible side I cleaned and sanded and put some plastic epoxy on the crack and sanded it smooth.
Same reinforcement could be done with some fiberglass mesh and epoxy on the back side. It would probably be easier.
They are ABS plastic so they can be solvent welded as well using methyl ethyl ketone, but you have to be careful because the mek dissolves and softens the plastic and too much can cause more damage.
When I put it back up, If a rivet hole was the beginning point of a crack I didn't use that hole again but put rivets to either side about 1" away to stabilize it.
Regret now it's back up, not reinforcing the rivet holes where the f channel attaches for the partition/shower wall, the top last rivet is starting to crack. Will probably take that rivet out. Same with not having reinforced where the shower rod bracket and shower head, light, mirror cabinet attaches. Some pieces of metal behind them would help spread the stress on the plastic and reduce chance of tearing out or cracking. The original mirror is not going back in, it weighs a ton, I plan on replacing with plexiglass mirror.
Another option replace the plastic by building a segmented aluminum end cap, lots of work though.
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Old 08-19-2015, 12:48 PM   #26
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Since axles were mentioned a couple posts ago, what does it mean when they are bowed outward? Not like the axles are sagging, but in the opposite direction.
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Old 08-20-2015, 04:57 PM   #27
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Since axles were mentioned a couple posts ago, what does it mean when they are bowed outward? Not like the axles are sagging, but in the opposite direction.
Assuming that by outward you mean that the axle tube bends upward toward the trailers bottom and not toward the ground. That's normal and how they get the wheel camber.
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