Axle condition affects value?

[AlbertF]

I'm looking at a '73 Tradewind; the axles clearly need replacement as the hubs are above the axle centre line even with the trailer unloaded. I'd guess that most trailers of this age have questionable axles. How much off of a typical selling price should this be worth?

The trailer is in very nice shape otherwise; interior fabrics have been updated, new water heater heater, everything important works, tambour doors are immaculate, and the trailer seems to have been used fairly lightly by careful owners, e.g just a few weeks per year.

Any input would be appreciated.

[JimGolden]

I could be dead wrong here, but good luck convincing the owner that there's anything wrong with them, much less getting him to come down in price.

I know you're right, and you know you're right, but most people don't understand about the duratorque axles and their sag.

My grandfather has had several old airstreams and they all had the sagging axles. He said POOH on replacing them, too expensive. He just used them as-is, then sold them to the next fellow.

His current one, a '58, has leaf springs. He's using it as a storage shed. I want it as my second one to compliment the long one (his '58 is a 17 footer I think). I've got first dibs anyway

Good luck!

[uwe]

I depends on the asking price as well. If the trailer is nice and reasonably prices, and it's "just" a mattter of the axles, then I'd snap it up. You know that someone else will, likely sooner than later.
TradeWinds are the biggest short trailer, and the shortest long trailer Airstream has made...a nice size that travels well and has immense user value. Don't let the axle dilemma stop you if everything else is really nice.

[wahoonc]

Albert,
I have to agree with Jim, most owner's could care less about the axles when it comes to selling at a discount. The problem being that there are too many people that look at a shiny Airstream and jump. If you are looking at more than one trailer you can use it as a criteria to choose between two or more similar units. If you are looking at only one, it is up to you to decide. I looked at a '68 where the axles were toast, the floor was rotten in several spots, the plumbing was bad (freeze damage). I pointed all of this out to the person selling it, and made my offer. He basically said I was trying to screw him But the person that got burnt was the one that paid his asking price for it...It is worth what you are willing to pay and what work you want to put into it.

Aaron

[AlbertF]

Thanks for the comments; they are very helpful. The seller is a reasonable gentleman, is proud of his trailer but can't use it anymore due to the frailties of age. He got underneath the trailer and I showed him the problem. He didn't argue the point, and I said I needed to figure out what it would cost to put it right.

Yes, someone will buy this trailer because the interior is marvelously clean(even the plumbing has been wiped down!) and the skin is intact and nearly ding free.

Now I just need to satisfy my wife and myself that the 48" wide sofa beds are wide enough, or that a 54" replacement can be installed without irreversibly altering an intact near-original trailer!

[john hd]

there are a number of members who have changed the axles on their trailers.

they may chime in here shortly and give you a rough estimate of the costs involved.

if it is a nice clean trailer you may want to go ahead and get it because one owner clean trailers are somewhat of a find!

john

[Smokin Camel]

I am just starting the process of replacing the axels. I looked at Dexters but there is a shock issue and the modifications would run the cost right into OEM prices.

The most expedient method for me was to order a pair of Henschlens from Inland RV. Andy was very helpful. I will post my progress once the axels arrive and I get the work started. At this time it is about a grand an axel (with brakes) after shipping.

I oversized to 3000 lb, though in hind site I think 2800 may have been more practical. Traveling a bit heavy will be a necessity. I will be towing with a full water tank (keeps the center of gravity low) and putting a goodly amount of weight in the trailer and a lot less in the truck.

Even being disabled I figure on doing the job myself. About twenty years ago I helped replace some axels on tandem cargo trailer and it was not that hard of a job. Otherwise figure on about $200/axel for mounting. If I have trouble a friend of mine that also has some back problems will help, we figure between the two of us we equal on whole man for lifting and pushing. It really is not an intimidating job once you research it. There are some excellent tips and one of the posts has photos of the ramps for tandems so you will not have to jack the trailer. I am building full ramps that can accomodate one or both axels, one axel up when I am replacing the axels, two when I need to elevate everything so I can get under it.

Since I am also going to do the plumbing this summer (I hope!) The ramps will come in hand for dropping the tank. This summer is probably lost for camping but it should be on the road next year .

Getting back to the axels, it was something I did not think about nor did the PO know anything about them. I checked them after reading some of the posts and what I saw I did not like. With all of the work going into the old camel I want to keep it shinny side up. I will try to keep some sort of photo record of the job, other than dealing with a gravel floor it won't be bad, the Henchlens will bolt right in. Before I forget----shocks -- about $40 ea for Gabriels. I read there is a Monroe shock that is cheaper. If you are pulling axels that is the time to do shocks, need em or not. Shock repalcement is a b!^@H on most Airstreams.

[PizzaChop]

I replaced my axles with Dexters two weeks ago by myself without too much trouble.

A floor jack can be used to move the axles into/out of position. The most important and time consuming portion for me was getting the unit level set up properly so that I could safely work underneath it. Adding 6" inches makes a big difference in working underneath.

Here's a link to my pics...you can pm me if you have any questions as my memory is very fresh at this point.

[Smokin Camel]

Originally Posted by PizzaChop

I replaced my axles with Dexters two weeks ago by myself without too much trouble.

A floor jack can be used to move the axles into/out of position. The most important and time consuming portion for me was getting the unit level set up properly so that I could safely work underneath it. Adding 6" inches makes a big difference in working underneath.

Here's a link to my pics...you can pm me if you have any questions as my memory is very fresh at this point.

Nice pic's. I hope my project goes as good. I know one part won't---I am on gravel! Hearing of these give those of us that have yet to start hope that it won't take all day!

[AlbertF]

Smokin',

Shock absorber replacement shouldn't be a big job, unless you are fighting rust on the nuts. A good penetrating oil (PB Blaster seems a lot better than anything else I've tried) or a torch will do the trick.

Having towed without them, I can vouch for the improvement they make. I noticed an expensive tri-axle fifth wheel rocking side to side after stopping for a traffic light last week. I fully expect that it had leaf springs and no shock absorbers.

[Smokin Camel]

Originally Posted by AlbertF

Smokin',

Shock absorber replacement shouldn't be a big job, unless you are fighting rust on the nuts. A good penetrating oil (PB Blaster seems a lot better than anything else I've tried) or a torch will do the trick.

Having towed without them, I can vouch for the improvement they make. I noticed an expensive tri-axle fifth wheel rocking side to side after stopping for a traffic light last week. I fully expect that it had leaf springs and no shock absorbers.

I am going to put the axels on in a few weeks. After I read your post and a few other axel comments I started hittin the nuts with a couple of penetrant oils two weeks ago. I will hit them agin when I go down there next week. I am hoping the nuts break easily but I do have breaker bars for added persuasion. I'll take few photos and post them. Fortunately I have some freinds that thought the job would go easier in the shop. They will move one of the race cars out of one of the bays so I can work on the AS.

They even suggested doing the front axel first, then checking the alignment. It is evidently easier to check alignment to the rear axel from the front one. Though they did mention these (Henschlen) should be pretty much self aligned by the way they install.

Alignment is just a matter of measuring from the tow point to each side of the axel. The rear is then measured from the front axel. Everything other aspect of alignment such as the toe is already built into the axel and should be alright, but it will get checked anyway. I never realized that alignment was realatively simple for a trailer. But then again my helpers run various types of race cars at places like Road America. (I have a secret desire to try the red vette one seater that has about four inches of ground clearance)

Thanks for mentioning the rust, it may seem minor to some but leaning on a breaker bar is not the most fun thing to do, you made me think about a detail that will save some %&^*&%^ and a bit of time.

[Melody Ranch]

They DO affect the value. If they need replacement be fair to yourself and the seller. Seller should have same attitude. I'd suggest go the axel provider and installer. Get an estimate. Give that to the seller and say you will split the cost. Deduct that half from the selling price (previously negotiated) and press on. That way you get the axel you would need (new too) and they would sell the trailer that needs an axel regardless. Get Inlands, Dexter and Southwest axel estimates...pick the best. As mentiond earlier, self installation will save you more but don't offer that into the negotiation.

[Smokin Camel]

The axels are on and what a difference. The Trade wind sits several inches higher. I bought Henschlens from Andy. Read the post I made in the Axel forum. Cost was about $2000 for the axels, about $80 for the shocks. I don't recall shipping but there was a $71 fuel surcharge. I was able to have a company nearby recieve them for me (they had a loading dock and fork lift). The axels weighed in a bit short of 450 Lbs and came strapped together. they were drop shipped from Ohio so that saved a lot of freight.

With a good AS it was worth it. It is expensive, but look at the cost of a new one. With a part here and there I have an RV that I could not afford otherwise. Even if you need to save for a year, do it. Mine is going to be roadable at the end of summer (plumbing is left) and I still have another year to finish everything. ThenI will be two years ahead of my schedule.

The size is great and there is better interior room in the Tradewind than some larger models. The light build means you can travel heavy (fill the water tank) for a lower center of gravity...you are still lighter than the new models.

By the way...the comment about the PB Blaster...get a can and use it. Even with it we still had to beat on the axle mount and mount plate with an air hammer to lossen the layer of rust. A wire brush & some primer and back in business!

[ticki2]

You are looking at a 34 year old trailer , no reason to expect it would have new axles . If it did you can bet the owner would have included it in the price . I have no idea what the asking price is but if the unit is as nice as you say , except for the axles , and the price is average for the year , I'd go for it. Another way to look at it is , what would you sell your present trailer for . Good luck

[bilby05]

Originally Posted by PizzaChop

I replaced my axles with Dexters two weeks ago by myself without too much trouble.

A floor jack can be used to move the axles into/out of position. The most important and time consuming portion for me was getting the unit level set up properly so that I could safely work underneath it. Adding 6" inches makes a big difference in working underneath.

Here's a link to my pics...you can pm me if you have any questions as my memory is very fresh at this point.

Great pictures. Wish I had seen them before I had my Dexters installed by a local shop. Would have helped me visualize the process a bit better and made it easier to avoid some of the pitfalls. The big thing I learned is check the specs, talk to the manufacturer and check the job as it goes along. Sit down with the installer to be sure he knows why you have specific parameters for him to follow. Studying your pics should be required by the Dexter people before allowing anyone to order axles:-)

cheers, bill b.