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Old 08-04-2017, 08:58 AM   #1
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1972 25' Tradewind
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'72 Demo Related Questions

During our demo we've discovered a couple of things:

1. After a recent a rainshower, the fresh water access door was leaking into the trailer. This answered our question as to why the fresh water tank was always full. Does the door need to be replaced?

2. The furnace duct is uninsulated and run on the floor. Is this common?

Sub floor is still looking good, but we haven't made it to the infamous rear "wet" bathroom.

Any thoughts from the "resto veterans" would be appreciated.
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Old 08-04-2017, 09:06 AM   #2
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Ductwork

The duct on my 67 Overlander is the same. It is long and only serves a single outlet under the tub. I think only a very small amount of warm air actually makes it that far but the long uninsulated run acts kind of like a radiant heater under the cabinets, bed and tub:-)
Mine is currently disconnected to make room for gray water plumbing...
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Old 08-04-2017, 09:14 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by hbf442 View Post
1. After a recent a rainshower, the fresh water access door was leaking into the trailer. This answered our question as to why the fresh water tank was always full. Does the door need to be replaced?
No, they all do that. Makes you not want to drink out of your tanks. If you open the water door, you'll probably see a thin rubber gasket around the top and sides of the door. I think that was designed to avoid having water leak in, but I can't imagine it ever worked very well. You can try to replace it with a new very thin gasket, but I don't know that it's worth it.

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2. The furnace duct is uninsulated and run on the floor. Is this common?
Yes that's normal.

Wear a mask when you start tearing into insulation and other mousy stuff. Hanta virus is a thing. Keep taking pictures and posting. Looking good so far.
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Old 08-04-2017, 12:12 PM   #4
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Ok, thanks y'all! At least the always full fresh water tank mystery is solved.
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Old 08-05-2017, 04:33 PM   #5
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The fresh water access door on our 1971 Sovereign does not leak. The furnace ducting was not insulated.
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Old 08-05-2017, 05:10 PM   #6
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Might want to think of replacing the water access door and water inlet with a locking one.
That heat venting is typical, I'll be replacing that same set up with 3" or 4" insulated flex ducting.
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Old 08-06-2017, 02:41 PM   #7
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I threw all of my un-insulated ducting away, along with the 45 year old heater. Replaced it with a second AC. That's Florida living for you!
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Old 08-06-2017, 03:21 PM   #8
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As long as the heat from the furnace leaks into the trailer you are ok. They run uninsulated tubes usually under the kitchen and other areas where there is plumbing to help keep it from freezing. There is also a small tube that goes under the floor to keep the tanks from freezing.

Perry
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Old 08-06-2017, 03:48 PM   #9
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Hi

If you plan on drinking "trailer water", the inlet door needs to be replaced. Many people simply bring along bottled water and solve the problem that way. Water for personal consumption is pretty far down on the usage hit list.

Bob
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Old 08-07-2017, 07:49 AM   #10
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I threw all of my un-insulated ducting away, along with the 45 year old heater. Replaced it with a second AC. That's Florida living for you!
Lol, in our first "Vintage" trailer (Argosy Minuet) we never used the heater. We always carried a small space heater just in case. The winters in S.E. Texas can be brutal, especially when we have to break out the long sleeved shirts. We'll be replacing all of the appliances in this one though.
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Old 08-07-2017, 07:55 AM   #11
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Hi

If you plan on drinking "trailer water", the inlet door needs to be replaced. Many people simply bring along bottled water and solve the problem that way. Water for personal consumption is pretty far down on the usage hit list.

Bob
Don't drink the water!! Personal experience from many years of camping. I always warn every guest...that's just me though.
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Old 08-07-2017, 03:15 PM   #12
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The door inlet is not designed to be sealed. There is the inlet tube and a vent above that. If it were totally sealed the tank would air lock. You still need an air vent.
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Old 08-07-2017, 03:35 PM   #13
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The door inlet is not designed to be sealed. There is the inlet tube and a vent above that. If it were totally sealed the tank would air lock. You still need an air vent.
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Old 08-07-2017, 05:31 PM   #14
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I concur...both cases are typical. I will be addressing the water inlet issue in my rebuild, as that bothers me like crazy...even so, I'd never want to drink the tank water.

No need for insulation on the furnace duct since loss heat will end up in the trailer anyway. This is also why ducted ACs in an RV do not require insulation in certain circumstances. But when you have ducting running through your home attic, then your lost heat (or cold) will be truly lost; hence, the insulated ducts.
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Old 08-07-2017, 06:23 PM   #15
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I'll umpteenth the door. Gasket sucks. Rain runs down collects dirt and washes it into the FW tank. My FW tank was full of black sludge from years of the door leaking. It was also brittle and starting to crack. Had to replace the inlet and tank. They don't make the inlet doors anymore.

Duct uninsulated.
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Old 08-07-2017, 09:26 PM   #16
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I concur...both cases are typical. I will be addressing the water inlet issue in my rebuild, as that bothers me like crazy...even so, I'd never want to drink the tank water.

No need for insulation on the furnace duct since loss heat will end up in the trailer anyway. This is also why ducted ACs in an RV do not require insulation in certain circumstances. But when you have ducting running through your home attic, then your lost heat (or cold) will be truly lost; hence, the insulated ducts.
Interesting thought on the insulation.
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:07 PM   #17
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Sub floor is still looking good, but we haven't made it to the infamous rear "wet" bathroom.

Any thoughts from the "resto veterans" would be appreciated.
Be sure to check the subfloor where it goes under the wall. Poke something sharp in there to make sure it's sound. When an Airstream leaks the water often pools at the bottom of the wall between the interior and exterior skins. From there it can soak through the bolt and screw holes into the plywood. The plywood is part of the connection of the shell to the frame, so it's important that it's in good condition.
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Old 09-18-2017, 07:38 PM   #18
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For the door to stop leaking I used the gasket for a out door outlet. Cut the gasket into strips and stick them on. Be sure to prepared your surface with methnolhydrate or something to get rid of any moisture before sticking it on. Cheers!
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