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Old 08-07-2017, 06:23 PM   #15
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1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
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I'll umpteenth the door. Gasket sucks. Rain runs down collects dirt and washes it into the FW tank. My FW tank was full of black sludge from years of the door leaking. It was also brittle and starting to crack. Had to replace the inlet and tank. They don't make the inlet doors anymore.

Duct uninsulated.
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Old 08-07-2017, 09:26 PM   #16
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1972 25' Tradewind
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Originally Posted by jballauer View Post
I concur...both cases are typical. I will be addressing the water inlet issue in my rebuild, as that bothers me like crazy...even so, I'd never want to drink the tank water.

No need for insulation on the furnace duct since loss heat will end up in the trailer anyway. This is also why ducted ACs in an RV do not require insulation in certain circumstances. But when you have ducting running through your home attic, then your lost heat (or cold) will be truly lost; hence, the insulated ducts.
Interesting thought on the insulation.
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:07 PM   #17
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1964 26' Overlander
1974 31' Sovereign
Milton , ON
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Sub floor is still looking good, but we haven't made it to the infamous rear "wet" bathroom.

Any thoughts from the "resto veterans" would be appreciated.
Be sure to check the subfloor where it goes under the wall. Poke something sharp in there to make sure it's sound. When an Airstream leaks the water often pools at the bottom of the wall between the interior and exterior skins. From there it can soak through the bolt and screw holes into the plywood. The plywood is part of the connection of the shell to the frame, so it's important that it's in good condition.
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1946 Spartan Manor
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Old 09-18-2017, 07:38 PM   #18
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1969 23' Safari
Blenheim , Ontario
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For the door to stop leaking I used the gasket for a out door outlet. Cut the gasket into strips and stick them on. Be sure to prepared your surface with methnolhydrate or something to get rid of any moisture before sticking it on. Cheers!
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