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Old 02-28-2011, 11:56 PM   #61
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1969 31' Sovereign
1975 25' Tradewind
Walnut Creek , California
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Maybe a Toastie copy?!

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Old 03-01-2011, 08:17 AM   #62
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That is similar to what my plan is except I have to use a wet bath due to mine being 21ft. I am also going with a rear sideways queen. My biggest problem was with gray tanks and plumbing. The potable water tank is staying in it's stock location. The black is a 16 gallon tank that will set above the floor. As it will be next to the wheel well the bulk of the tank will be under the raised 6 cubic foot fridge. Plumbing for the black dictated the size of the gray. As I wanted zero protrusion from the belly skin and taking away 3/4 of an inch for the floorboard splices this left me with only 4 inches to work with. as the black tank plumbing will run down the right side frame rail I lost more space for the gray. I ended up with 3 11 gal gray water tanks that will be manifolded together. The manifold takes up space also. The tanks I ended up with are 20"X36"X4". These are water tanks with no built in slope, so to drain them, the trailer will have to be sloped to the streetside. When was the last time you saw a level dump station? At the least I will have to pull the trailer up on LEGO blocks to dump. This is a small price to pay to achieve what I want without having to pay a arm and leg for custom tanks. Gravity dictates that the tanks will drain at a level site, just not all the way, but if I'm at a campground with full hookups, I just want them to drain, I could care less if a gallon is still in them, as the gray water passes through to the dump valve. I'll just completely drain them when I leave.

As for the water heater, Fridge, battery box, etc I can put them anywhere I want, because after re skinning the lower half, I have a blank canvas. I just have to be aware of the balance for the tongue weight.

Anything is possible as long as you plan well ahead and don't box yourself in

Just make sure you know where the frame rails and cross members are in relationship to to plumbing drains. I drew mine on the floor. I am still using the same exit point on the dump valves. I will be using 3 dump vales. One on the black tank (remote cable release) one on the gray manifold (remote) and a master at the exit point for redundancy.
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Old 03-01-2011, 01:22 PM   #63
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1969 31' Sovereign
1975 25' Tradewind
Walnut Creek , California
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Pics for Toastie help.

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Old 03-01-2011, 11:52 PM   #64
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Yea! I figured it out!! I Just had to get away from the design for a bit. Bammo! I know!! I made some changes to the bathroom according to two different jobs done by some other members.

With that switch I can now do a quasi copy of toastie's design. Yea! It looks like it will be perfect for my family.

With this design I'm planning on 2 more grey tanks and an above the floor and belly black tank. Plus I'm thinking about adding in a 35 gallon above floor fresh water up front for long trips and to use as ballast if needed? Too much?

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Old 03-01-2011, 11:57 PM   #65
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Oops!

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Old 03-02-2011, 04:07 PM   #66
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1975 25' Tradewind
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So now that I have my design perfected I am choosing tanks to go with it.

What's the scoop on fittings? Any opinions out there as to which fittings are best? Spin weld? Abs glued? Pressure?

There are so many tanks available and I'm sure I'll find the right combo. I like the idea of doing the fittings as I build but I'm wondering? Most secure?

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Old 03-03-2011, 01:47 PM   #67
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1975 25' Tradewind
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Step from a '69 fit a '75?

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Old 03-04-2011, 09:51 AM   #68
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I let tank size determine the type of tank used. Black tank is ABS so it will be easy to glue on fitting. Gray is poly and it only cost me 20 bucks to get fittings spun on locally.

The screw on pressure type would be OK but you cannot get them to set flush with the bottom or side etc. Plus how do you get the compression nut inside?

Check and see if you have someone in your area that can spin weld. Bay Area is a big place, someone there should be able to do it. Or you could send them to me I and I can take to my local fabricator. Shipping would cost more then the fitting install though.
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Old 03-04-2011, 10:24 AM   #69
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1969 31' Sovereign
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
I let tank size determine the type of tank used. Black tank is ABS so it will be easy to glue on fitting. Gray is poly and it only cost me 20 bucks to get fittings spun on locally.

The screw on pressure type would be OK but you cannot get them to set flush with the bottom or side etc. Plus how do you get the compression nut inside?

Check and see if you have someone in your area that can spin weld. Bay Area is a big place, someone there should be able to do it. Or you could send them to me I and I can take to my local fabricator. Shipping would cost more then the fitting install though.
Good info! The abs joints seem to be the best versatility. My only worry with the abs is it's rigidity. It seems to me that longevity might be compromised by vibration? Has anyone ever regretted using abs?

You're right about the resources in the Bay Area. I will scope out the spin weld options.

Once again, this site is the best! Gotta love the connections and info available!

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Old 03-04-2011, 11:29 AM   #70
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Ed a couple of questions for you about your intended location of the water heater.
1) How do you intend to install the water heater at the rear when the rear C channel and rear holddown plate are there? I can see a problem getting it to sit on a solid base like the floor without cutting the rear holddown plate, which is not advisable. If you mount the heater on some sort of platform to get it on top of the holddown plate will there be enough height clearance below the rear window.
2) Are you intending to relocate the license plate lamp and bracket?
3) have you given any thought to the exhaust from the water heater right below the window and possibly venying back into the trailer?
4) What about draining the water heater for winterizing? The drain would empty the water right on to the rear bumper storage cover. Also when the heater works occasionally the pressure relief valve will drain out some water again right on to the storage door. This area is already prone to leaking into the trailer and doesn't need any help with a constant supply of water.
5) Have you thought about the fact that you are placing 75 lbs weight right at the rear of the trailer?
Just some food for thought. Is it possible to keep the stock location in your new plan? It would readily solve a lot of issues.
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:49 PM   #71
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1969 31' Sovereign
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris
Ed a couple of questions for you about your intended location of the water heater.
1) How do you intend to install the water heater at the rear when the rear C channel and rear holddown plate are there? I can see a problem getting it to sit on a solid base like the floor without cutting the rear holddown plate, which is not advisable. If you mount the heater on some sort of platform to get it on top of the holddown plate will there be enough height clearance below the rear window.
2) Are you intending to relocate the license plate lamp and bracket?
3) have you given any thought to the exhaust from the water heater right below the window and possibly venying back into the trailer?
4) What about draining the water heater for winterizing? The drain would empty the water right on to the rear bumper storage cover. Also when the heater works occasionally the pressure relief valve will drain out some water again right on to the storage door. This area is already prone to leaking into the trailer and doesn't need any help with a constant supply of water.
5) Have you thought about the fact that you are placing 75 lbs weight right at the rear of the trailer?
Just some food for thought. Is it possible to keep the stock location in your new plan? It would readily solve a lot of issues.
Chris, all good points and issues I have thought about. It's great to have someone with your experience to bounce ideas off of.

First, I want to size up the water heater or go with one of the tankless. The tankless seems to be the best answer for the rear location. I am going to remove the original grey tank and use larger tanks more forward. I am also installing an above floor fresh tank up front in addition to the original. For ballast as well as longer boon docking.

The rear hold down is an issue I am working out. I am willing to customize away from the original. I want to switch to aluminum heavy gauge anyway. I was thinking about a combination of lifting the heater. I would make a plate that would be more of a frame around the heater. Rivets would be in a pattern all the way around, maybe!

The venting gas fumes! Hmmm? This is the issue I am still thinking through.

If I use the original location I would avoid alot of these issues, I know, but I hate the way the systems take away so much of the kitchen storage. The kitchen is always where we need the most, it seems.

Ed

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Old 03-04-2011, 02:02 PM   #72
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Ed there is a thread going about the precision -temp tankless water heater. Some people have complianed about it's reliability but Lewster swears by it. I would place a lot of weight on what he has to say about them. Here is the link.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f445...all-63578.html

So I guess that furnace ducting is no longer an issue with the new plan leaving the fridge in it's stock location.
I know what you mean about kitchen storage. Under my kitchen counter is the furnace, water pump,converter, sink, bathrooom exhaust fan motor and stove, which leaves very little room for anything else.
Would the furnace fit under the sink in your new plan if you swapped location of the sink and stove?
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:20 AM   #73
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1973 25' Tradewind
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Are you still working on TW

I went away for awhile this and when I returned I went straight to this bookmarked post. Curious Did you ever finish your Tradewind restoration?

You were an inspiration. I have a 1975 TW and now that they took my wife's vacation away (for awhile) for an upcoming new facility wide change in computer system. I was trying to muster up the inspiration and courage to tear into mine.

Tony
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