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Old 01-15-2010, 09:42 AM   #43
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Why the pl sealant as opposed to sikaflex 221 or vulcem 636 ? Curious minds want to know.

Kevin
ps thanks for the floor plan
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Old 01-15-2010, 11:06 AM   #44
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Kevin, Iíd like to say that, after an extensive review and comparative analysis using a weighted matrix protocol, the PL came out as being the best product for the application. However, I canít say that. It was primarily driven by my rather diminutive funds available. I had read on other threads that people had used the PL Gutter seal with good results. After cleaning off the old stuff that AS put on, the sealant adhered extremely well and left a bead that water cannot seep through. Eventually, Iíll seal the outside windows with Vulcem and, after the interior skins are on, Iíll use Sikaflex all around the c-channel to seep under the channel before I put down the floor tile...had to show you the tile we chose to make up for the last set of pics.

If anybody has a better solution, please chime in! Also, regarding the floor plan, I welcome any suggestions or constructive critique.
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Old 01-15-2010, 04:40 PM   #45
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Dar,
The floor selection is outstanding.Is it sheet or squares (rubber base like Pirelli?)
Fine design selection.
I did see some rubber interlocking squares with 1/4 in square and 1/2 in circle pattern in lots of colors at Lowes yesterday.
I used your motivational aid ,got some truck box polish and did one spot by the door!
I have to pass it everytime I go in to tackle something else.
This should be the first thing everyone does before they start a restoration.
Thanks,Steve
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Old 01-15-2010, 04:54 PM   #46
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Cheaper and still works is a good answer. Sikaflex is supposed to be a good exterior sealant as well but for areas such as the topside of windows where you have a lot of uv exposure you should use 721. The tile looks cool and will be a lot more fun than caulk talk!
Kevin
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Old 01-15-2010, 08:48 PM   #47
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Thanks Steve and Kevin. The tiles are by Amtico (blue to purple pressure plate). Itís a rubberized composite that lies down with a grooved edge which can either be filled with an extruded filament or left open. Depending on the light, it changes from blue to teal to purple and sometimes to a color not found in nature. Iíll have to figure out how to knock over a bank in order to buy the stuff, but with an architectís/builderís discount, it might become more affordable.

As for the motivational aids, we finished another one, so when we go out to the garage, we can see just what the heck weíre working on. I took the old signage and, using frisket paper, x-acto, and an airbrush, restored the thing back to its glory (Ford Royal Blue enamel).

The other shots depict the more mundane stuff youíve gotta go through. Since weíre not using the old water heater, I had to fabricate a door frame at that location. It will serve as an access to the water pump below the closet area. Iíll fabricate a door with a vertical piano hinge toward the front of the trailer so it will swing leftward rather than downward. If the lock gives out going down the road, the door will (hopefully) stay shut by the wind force. I had a problem with the shell bowing out at that area due to no structure to support it. I took out all the rivets on the left side of the opening and pushed the skin to meet the new frame and re-riveted. The end result is a rock solid frame for the future door. It turned out that the original rivet holes were okay, but we needed a little room to play (maybe 1/32"). That part of the skin was always used to being held by the giganto water heater vent assembly. The trailer and I came to a mutual agreement.
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:11 AM   #48
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Brad (flyfshr) came by and offered some good advice on additional support at the air conditioner and noticed that the vertical support below the ac had either a stress crack or had been cut at the factory. Just proves that another pair of eyes is always appreciated. Since we had a giant amount of rain, Iím still finding areas where more sealer is needed below windows. My temporary patches at the roof openings couldnít stop the torrent and we sopped up the floor to get ready to finish the first part of the insulation (gluing the 1 inch Styrofoam to the skin). I decided to follow Bradís advice and installed a layer of Prodex directly to the shell between the Styrofoam strips and then another layer on the strips. It should achieve close to an R-20 value. I donít think my house has that kind of rating. At all the old holes through the struts for electrical, I stopped the Styrofoam so I could snake the wires through where I needed to. Since itís going to be rewired differently than original, Iíll probably have to drill and grommet some new locations.

This is the stage that all tasks seem to run into each other in a fight for priority. In order to get a feeling of accomplishment, you start a big task only to be stopped halfway there to finish something started beforehand. I canít finish the insulation until the window leaks are sealed, the exterior lighting and nameplates are on and sealed and the vents and skylights are installed. Constrained with a spend-as-you-can budget and a growing sense of urgency to complete this phase, itís like having a two week vacation and no gas money to go anywhereÖfrustrating. But, in the effort to update this thread, here are some pics of the insulation install. New waste vent caps arrived yesterday and exterior lights should be here today.
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Old 02-02-2010, 11:25 AM   #49
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Man oh man, is that ever looking nice. You'll be able to keep out the summer heat with all of that insulation. I'm always glad to offer advise when I'm not the one doing all of the suggested work. Happy to do it anytime.

Brad
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Old 02-02-2010, 05:03 PM   #50
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Looks great Dar,
Thanks for the roadmap for an Ambassador! Steve
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Old 02-02-2010, 09:04 PM   #51
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Really neat looking job, looks so good its almost a crime to replace interior skins.
Hey brad come over and check mine out too! do you think a coach can be effectively sealed only from the outside and still be water proof???? or is the pl a necessity, I know I'm back on caulk again.
Kevin
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:46 AM   #52
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Whew! That was tediously mind-numbing labor. I donít want to see another piece of Styrofoam strip ever again. I think I went through 8 tubes of PL300 and approx. (5) 4x8 foot panels of styro cut into 1 inch pieces. The acoustics in the trailer now rival a recording booth. I know it might seem a tad fastidious, but Iíll be using an adhesive rubberized tape at all the ribs which attach to the exterior skin in order to further isolate heat transfer to the interior skins. The interior rivets will be ordered in a length to accommodate the additional thickness of the tape (approx. 1/16th over standard for the short, medium and long needed for the different applications).

I had ordered the j-molding for the wheel wells from Vintage Trailer and the material came last week. The replacement stuff is a bit thicker at the bottom of the channel than the original, so it takes more finesse to get it to curve around the wells. After several tries, I settled on cutting the notches on the rear fin and using a torch to get it to bend around a suitable diameter pipe. First, eyeball an approximate start of the front curve allowing for the length that goes under the belly pan. Once that curve is made, set in place and mark the start of the rear curve and notch the flange and bend. Allow for the rear portion of the material under the belly pan and cut off what you donít need. Cleco the molding along the flat part of the well and start heating the material to make the compound bend under the pan (the ends also need to be notched). Cleco both ends and start riveting. If an old rivet hole is located where youíve cut a notch, rivet a filler and make another hole through the flange and pan. One other thing, the j-molding doesnít fit the shell and the wheel well. Just fit it to the shell and rivet the back flange between skin and well.

The dreaded polishing has commenced! Weíre using Levonís system with Dewalt side grinder, grey and red bars. I havenít gotten to use the red because of the 46 years of oxidation which is a daunting obstacle to remove. Thereís this guy who walks by the trailer every morning while reading the paper. He never says a thing. I figure he thinks weíre crazy. Today, he actually said the trailer was going to look great when itís finished! Now maybe Iím taking it the wrong way, but I think heís finally come around to appreciating the endeavor. The pics show just the start of the job with the grey compound bar. It looks ok, but there are a lot of streaks that need to be re-polished. I will have a much greater appreciation to those with shiny Airstreams after this is all done.
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:00 AM   #53
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Looking Good Dar,
I assume the wiring is between the sheets of insulation.
I watched a demo of the polishing system at the Texas Vintage Trailer Rally last weekend.
Are you doing all your sections with the grey stick and then coming back with the rouge or finishing a section at a time?
I am down to bare aluminum inside of the 65(finally! and am following you along)
You are really doing a fine job!! Steve
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:39 AM   #54
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Thanks Steve, the wiring will be placed between the interior skin and the insulation. I left enough room to snake it through the ribs. As for the polishing, I'll try and do the whole trailer with the grey and then go to the red (but might succumb to doing a finished section to keep what's left of my sanity).

You're cranking along on that trailer! Pretty soon, I'll be following your lead! The Resto Rallies are a great source of vital information. Kris and I attended the one in ABQ last year. We restorers need to meet the people who are enjoying their Streams and talk to the guys who know a boat-load more than us.

Keep up the good work and post some pics (it's a schadenfreude kind of thing at this point). <insert smiley
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Old 06-12-2010, 10:03 PM   #55
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Itís been a while since updating this thread, so here goes. Our insulation install was delayed due to a depletion of Prodex. Beckybillrae came to the rescue and sent us a roll she had left over from her belly pan experience. Formal thanks again!

In the meantime, weíve been polishing and polishing. It seems like it might never be finished. We did the gray bar and red bar with the Dewalt side grinder, but we werenít getting such good results. We then tried Flitz polish on the heavily oxidized areas and it worked great getting down to the almost shiny. I then went to Rolite pre polish compound on a rubber buffing pad to get out the swirls and then the next grade of Rolite to get out the cloudiness. Once the shell is a consistent finish, Iíll try some Nuvite with the Cyclo. One thing about polishing an old trailer is, you canít be disappointed when battle scars emerge (and they will). When we bought the trailer, it had been used as a hunting blind and it was covered in camouflage netting for years. Sitting in a field in Oklahoma had a somewhat deleterious effect on the Alclad, so there are places that just wonít shine. Iíll choose to ignore those spots. So here are a few photos that show where we are in the progress. Iím figuring two more passes and itís ready to wax.

One more note: Iím really bummed about not being in ABQ for the Resto-Rally. Last year was a blast. I learned so much from the real restorers and it gave me the impetus to charge forward on this project. Iíll hoist a tankard toward the East up I-40 from the desert valley in solidarity to the intrepid Streamers. Iíve also got to give props to my polishing companion, Billy. The more he works on the trailer, the more he wants oneÖHahahaha!
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Old 06-13-2010, 08:46 AM   #56
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Looking good Ambie.Missed seeing you this year at the ABQ rally,but with that Phoenix sunshade you have on the scaffolding I assume this is a priority at the moment.
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