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Old 12-21-2009, 07:44 AM   #29
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Ambie,Should be solid for another 50 yrs.!In using the 3/4 ply will you encounter a bad fit when reinstalling the interior requiring trimming of everything,or are you rebuilding bulkheads custom?
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Old 12-21-2009, 08:07 AM   #30
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Steve, the bulkheads were pretty beat up, so I'll replace them. I will admit to some anxious moments when the shell went down on the thicker sub floor, but the only hard part was getting the belly pan stretched into place around the front and rear channels before the shell went down.

Brad, I'm not really sure you even own a pair of holey jeans!
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Old 12-21-2009, 09:40 AM   #31
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Leave Brad alone his harassment got us all another update on this great thread. Cant wait to see what you do with the bath area, I know long way off.
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Old 12-21-2009, 09:48 AM   #32
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Whew!! Thanks Kevin. I was feeling picked on and out of sorts.

BTW - I DO own a pair or two of holy jeans. Likely they're more black from polishing than holy though. Not something I wear away from the house usually.

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Old 12-21-2009, 11:20 AM   #33
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It occurred to me (thanks to KevinB) that you haven't seen my floor plan yet. I'm not going to use the old bath, so if anyone wants to try and restore the fiberglass unit, let me know. Below are some drawings which are still being tweaked. The front sofa will convert for the main bed. The back sofa will be the lounge area with tv and desk, both will convert to beds if needed. I hated the old mini closets the trailer had, so I opted for the larger closet (we don't have that many clothes, but it'll be easier to reach 'em). I didn't really move things around so much as played with the spaces within the confines of existing black tank and toilet, fridge, sink, etc. I junked the old furnace and will go with cat. lp heat located below the pantry. I also donated the water heater to Brad's better use and will install a tankless lp-fired unit below the vanity. The freshwater tank will relocate above the wheel well (instead of beside it, which was jacking with my open floor space). I'll build an aluminum frame to hold the weight off the well using the T-slot system. The double wall at the bath serves as the inlet and vent for the grey tank and for the sliding door. Please feel free to comment if I'm off base in the layout.
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Old 12-21-2009, 05:35 PM   #34
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Is venting your water heater going to be a problem with it installed on a radius corner. I'm not sure how the tankless units vent.

Kip
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Old 12-21-2009, 06:42 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Ambie '64 View Post
Steve, the bulkheads were pretty beat up, so I'll replace them. I will admit to some anxious moments when the shell went down on the thicker sub floor, but the only hard part was getting the belly pan stretched into place around the front and rear channels before the shell went down.

Brad, I'm not really sure you even own a pair of holey jeans!
Ambie, I'm also curious about how things worked out with the 3/4 plywood. Sounds like it went very well. Did you have any trouble matching the rivet holes on the wheel wells or the front plate? I figured with the added thickness, this would place the shell 1/8" higher and make those areas difficult. I'm ordering my plywood this week and I've been going back and forth between 5/8th and 3/4.
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Old 12-21-2009, 06:50 PM   #36
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Is venting your water heater going to be a problem with it installed on a radius corner. I'm not sure how the tankless units vent.

Kip
Don't the tankless units vent through the floor?
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Old 12-21-2009, 07:24 PM   #37
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Good point, Kip. I checked the specs on the unit I was hoping to use and it requires a fairly substantial venting. My location for the unit is just left of the lav in a cabinet that is at the beginning of the straight run down the curb side. Looks like I've got to do some more design work!

Norm, the difference between 5/8 and 3/4 is night and day as they relate to stiffness of the floor. At one point I thought about having to rout an eighth inch around the whole channel to get back to the original thickness, but it proved unnecessary. I also put 3 mil rubberized tape on top of the frame before installing the floor. The rivet holes got a bit lower in the channel (by bit I mean the diameter of rivet). In my case, the rivet line originally was high enough to accommodate the extra thickness. The front plate was the easiest thing to line up and should be the first thing you do when putting the shell down. Since the shell fits over the subfloor at that location, the plate will be the best way to know whether your chassis and shell are trued and level. The wheel wells are sitting with Clecos waiting for the new edging material to arrive. It was tough to line up the wheel wells and required some ''persuasion'' rocking the shell to properly fit down on the curb side. The most frustrating part of that process was being off by soooo little. I'd hate to think how tough it would have been had I not kept the wheel wells ''loose'' below the subfloor. Hope that helps.
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Old 01-11-2010, 12:44 PM   #38
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Ambie, hope all is going very well. Your photos and reports are fascinating. Looking forward to the next update.
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:12 PM   #39
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SJ1, thanks for the thoughts. Here's the next installment, but I'm afraid it's going to put you to sleep...

At this stage, it seems important to think of all the items which attach to the shell and determine if there are any additional things like clearance lights, backup lights, Marineco shore power receptacle, etc. that should be riveted. Iíve removed all the attached stuff and Kris polished the skin around those areas. Iím replacing all the old clearance lights with new ones and going with LED Bargeman tail lights. New plumbing vents will replace the old ones on the roof and a Fantastic Fan will be ordered. Iíve finished with sealing the interior joints of the shell and around all the windows and c-channel. I used PL Roof and Flashing (polyurethane) sealant. That stuff is nasty! Even with an air caulking gun, I was unable to keep it off my hands, which stayed a lovely black for a few days. You can also achieve a state of Nirvana from breathing the fumes.
It took three days for the sealer to fully cure, but the result is a comfort to know Iíll not have any leaks (at least where I applied it). Oh, and I used approx. 8 tubes. I admit to being a bit reluctant to start the insulation, but I donít want to cover anything up just yet and, besides, Iím basking in the glow of my bang-up job in goo distribution. 
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:38 PM   #40
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Ambie, this is simply awesome! Great job, I can see that you are meticulous. You know, since your rig seems to be mobile now, you could always tow it over to the person who only wears those black polishing jeans at his place....
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Old 01-12-2010, 09:37 PM   #41
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Ambie, this is simply awesome! Great job, I can see that you are meticulous. You know, since your rig seems to be mobile now, you could always tow it over to the person who only wears those black polishing jeans at his place....
Hey now. Don't be giving him any ideas. He might just do that. Yea, that's it, there's not room for another trailer here. Oh yea, I also threw all my black, worn out jeans away for New Years. Yea, that's the ticket.

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Old 01-13-2010, 07:01 PM   #42
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Hey now. Don't be giving him any ideas...

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I think it's a great suggestion, Brad! Besides, now we have an excuse to add "Blue Falcon" (military term - hint: first word is "Buddy") to this thread - http://www.airforums.com/forums/f138...ist-28713.html
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