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farmsc · 08-13-2008, 07:49 PM

I have a '62 T.W. land yacht 242D212 that has had the water system bastardized ( I don't think that is an offensive word, I don't mean it that way, it's just the best way to describe the system).
Anyway, I'm trying to get everything going and I have no idea where the switch is for the pump. The wire disappears into a grommet, seems to go forward in the trailer. Where should the switch be? There is a 110v-looking switch over the sink that I can't figure out. It is in a box with an outlet. There is also a small black wire coming out of a grommet in an upper cabinet above the sink. It comes out with a piece of Romex that goes to a flourescent late-model light. The small black wire is taped off.
Are there wiring diagrams for these floating around cyber space somewhere? Thanks for any help.

Kevin

overlander63 · 08-13-2008, 07:53 PM

Your switch for the water pump should be a 120-volt-looking switch just under the edge of the kitchen counter. The 120 volt looking switch with the outlets is probably for the 120 volt outside light near the main door.

farmsc · 08-13-2008, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

Your switch for the water pump should be a 120-volt-looking switch just under the edge of the kitchen counter. The 120 volt looking switch with the outlets is probably for the 120 volt outside light near the main door.

Thanks for the info. I just went out and looked, and I've got nothing switch like around the kitchen counter. I'll try to get a pic or 2 tomorrow and post of my cabinet/pump area.

I'll put a bulb in the outside light and check that out tomorrow as well.

Kevin

Frank's Trailer Works · 08-14-2008, 04:49 AM

on my 62 overlander the switch behind the sink operates the air pump. It is in the corner and looks like an ordinary wall switch, except a PO labeled it "12 volt".

LHall · 08-14-2008, 08:11 AM

On our 62 Ambassador there is a wall switch to the left of the sink that operates the water pump. It looks like any 120v switch, and is wired to the wiring that comes through wall under the sink.

BarryIowa · 08-14-2008, 08:27 AM

Thanks. I didn't know what that switch was for either......

farmsc · 08-14-2008, 03:58 PM

OK, here's what I now know...
The pump and the outside light are both 12 volt only. Therefore, neither will work with the 40 year old dead battery sitting in this thing. But, hook up a battery charger and both will come on.
AND, the pump IS the switch up in the corner behind the sink. The outside light is a small toggle switch just inside the door, up high, well camoflaged with paint.
Thanks for all the input on this. Now I can get the new 40 gallon poly tank I got for it plumbed in. Overkill, I know, but it fit in the hole, so I said "why not?"

While I'm at it, would this model have had a gray water tank? If so, where would it be and how would I get to it?
Thanks again,
Kevin

**azflycaster** · 08-14-2008, 04:05 PM

Sorry, gray tanks were standard in 1974. Your gray water will run right out the sewer connector.

Overlander & Sea · 08-14-2008, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by farmsc

OK, here's what I now know...
The pump and the outside light are both 12 volt only. Therefore, neither will work with the 40 year old dead battery sitting in this thing. But, hook up a battery charger and both will come on.
AND, the pump IS the switch up in the corner behind the sink. The outside light is a small toggle switch just inside the door, up high, well camoflaged with paint.
Thanks for all the input on this. Now I can get the new 40 gallon poly tank I got for it plumbed in. Overkill, I know, but it fit in the hole, so I said "why not?"

While I'm at it, would this model have had a gray water tank? If so, where would it be and how would I get to it?
Thanks again,
Kevin

Sounds like the same setup in my '61 Overlander. Do you have the original galvanized steel pressurized water tank now with the original water pump? If you're installing a new poly tank, then you'll need a new water pump. One thing always seems to lead to another.

overlander63 · 08-14-2008, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by farmsc

OK, here's what I now know...
The pump and the outside light are both 12 volt only. Therefore, neither will work with the 40 year old dead battery sitting in this thing. But, hook up a battery charger and both will come on.
AND, the pump IS the switch up in the corner behind the sink. The outside light is a small toggle switch just inside the door, up high, well camoflaged with paint.

Kevin, the 12 volt light is what is commonly referred to as a scare light. It is pretty much a backup light for a school bus, with the small toggle switch mounted just over the door toward the front, like you found.
The outside light is a 120 volt light mounted in a single socket on the side of the trailer. It should have a cover that has screw threads, unless someone has replaced it.
It's good to know the pump and scare light work, you can now concentrate on the water tank install.

farmsc · 08-14-2008, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Overlander & Sea

Sounds like the same setup in my '61 Overlander. Do you have the original galvanized steel pressurized water tank now with the original water pump? If you're installing a new poly tank, then you'll need a new water pump. One thing always seems to lead to another.

I removed the old galv. torpedo, but why would I need a new pump? Will the old one not work with a poly tank?

overlander63 · 08-14-2008, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by farmsc

I removed the old galv. torpedo, but why would I need a new pump? Will the old one not work with a poly tank?

The old system used air pressure to force the water through the pipes. Most poly tanks can't handle the pressure that would be required. So, that's why the suggestion to get a new water pump, one that pumps water instead of rpessurizing it. If it's already been converted, then never mind...

farmsc · 08-14-2008, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

The old system used air pressure to force the water through the pipes. Most poly tanks can't handle the pressure that would be required. So, that's why the suggestion to get a new water pump, one that pumps water instead of rpessurizing it. If it's already been converted, then never mind...

OK, It looks like a air pressure setup. Copper line comes from pump to a tee just inside the fill valve, then on to somewhere else. So any reccomendations on a pump? I have an rv dealer (not AS) here in town.

Thanks for all the replies so far, everyone. It's been very helpful and knowledgeable.

Kevin

flyfshr · 08-14-2008, 05:54 PM

When I replaced my pressurized tank with a poly one, I put in a ShurFlo pump and it has performed flawlessly. Plus it has a valve that prevents back pressure when hooked up to city water so your poly tank doesn't fill with city water. That's a good thing.

Brad
FF

overlander63 · 08-14-2008, 06:15 PM

I put a Flo-Jet 2.9 GPM pump in our Sovereign. It works like it should, was inexpensive, has good flow, and the all-important check valve so you don't irrigate the interior of your trailer. I got ours from Camping World (you can buy online, though I've never done so) for about $45.