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Old 02-03-2013, 09:46 PM   #15
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>>We also attended our first resto rally and that was one of the best experiences we have had since we bought our first Airstream. We are really looking forward to this year's resto rally<<

Ed--how does one find out where the resto rallies are? I've checked the Rally Forum on the website and put a search in for 2013 Restoration Rally and came up empty, except for one hit on the 2013 Texas Vintage Rally in October.

Thanks,
Wayne
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Old 02-03-2013, 10:34 PM   #16
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Wayne,
They have not announced the dates for this years rally but we have heard it might be the first weekend in May. Ken J and the 4CU put on the rally so whatch for an announcement from him.
Ed
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:00 PM   #17
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Hi Ed,
You are doing some great work there. Nice shop! The overhead hoist is sweet.
Also, thanks for the kind words about the Lonestar VAC campout. We're glad you were able to make it and had a great time. This year's Lonestar VAC rally will be held at the Barefoot fish camp and RV park in Bend, TX 16-19 May. Hope you can make it!
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:07 PM   #18
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Ball mount to rotate the trailer on the hoists

Lance,
Looks like you have a great new trailer.
We are going to see if we can make it down to the VAC rally in Texas this year. With the resto rally being moved we are busy rearranging the schedule.
Others have asked about the ball mount I use to rotate the frame so here are some pictures. The ball sticking up goes into the trailer coupler to keep it wedged in tight and keeps it from moving around which could be pretty scary as I keep adding weight. The ball mount was made from parts I cut off an old cultivator sitting in the back of our property. It has worked really well although I had to modify it when I made a new plate for the bottom of the A-frame/coupler. The one picture shows it as I am putting it in and the last picture is looking toward the front of the coupler from inside to show how the end fits in. It probably is going to take a bit to figure out how it works by looking at these pictures so good luck.
Hope to see you soon.
Ed
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:57 PM   #19
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New crossmembers

As you could tell in earlier pictures, we removed the center cross members and replaced them with new cross members made of 14ga steel and the same depth profile as the new stainless steel tanks and the exact distance needed between for each tank.

The overhead hoists are handy for a lot of things including lifting the axle and holding it in place while we welded.

One of the really bad parts of the frame was the rear under the bath. I replaced part of the rear main frame on both sides and the two rear cross members with new 11ga box tubing.

Ed
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:13 PM   #20
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Spare tire carrier and tanks

I changed the front cross members to allow installation of a spare tire carrier. It turned out to be one of the more time consuming tasks because I also welded a steel plate over the opening (more pictures to come of the tire carrier itself). My measurements show it only goes in one spot if you place a cross member exactly 4' on center from the front of the trailer (front of the plywood floor). We felt the tire is best placed under the trailer in the front, but I understand other peoples desire for rear or front mount. I personally don't want the weight of the tire on the rear and we are going to mount the batteries in the front behind the LP cylinders so did not have space for the front tire there.

I used 1/2X1/2" square tubing to reinforce the bottom of the frame reinforcement (the frame is upside down in this picture).

This is the first trial fit of the tanks and the final picture is our first look at how well we measured for the piping and valve (it looks like everything is going to fit perfectly).
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:38 PM   #21
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Still on the frame

Here is another picture of the spare tire carrier installed and modified. I had to cut off both rods that held the tire and remake so the tire would fit centered in the opening.

Here is the new bumper installed and a ball welded to a piece of the old bumper and this piece welded to the new bumper. Once you find out how easy it is to weld something in place and then remove it and grind away the evidence, this seemed like the best way to mount the ball to the new bumper (temporarily). As soon as I am done with the frame and belly pan for the last time, I am going to remove the ball.

A quick picture of the I-beam and hoists and of the frame being lifted with the two hoists.

Ed
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Old 02-07-2013, 08:45 PM   #22
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f289...ly-101084.html

Here is the info on the "Vintage Trailer Academy" fka Vintage Restoration Rally.
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:29 PM   #23
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Ed, Just found your thread, your work is looking great! I look forward to following your progress!
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:22 PM   #24
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Doug,
Thanks for the kind words. We really enjoyed your thread during your rebuild and the results that we saw in person were great. Hope ours comes out in similar fashion.
We have been on vacation for the last 2 weeks (attended the Vintage Trailer Academy in Albuquerque a little over a week ago) and are now headed to Bend Texas to meet up with Lance and the Lonestar VAC. We are looking forward to meeting up with these folks again this year since we had such a great time with them last year.
I had some issues with the POR15 sticking and brought the entire frame in to have it sand blasted and repainted with epoxy primer and two coats of urethane. We got it back just before we left on vacation and it looks great. Needless to say, I do not have kind words for POR15. We did extensive degreasing and metal prep before we applied the POR15. My best guess from people I have talked to is it may have been too cool when we applied the POR15 (50F). I find it hard to believe it is that sensitive, but it is what it is.
The next time I won't do any more cleaning than is necessary to weld. When I am all done with frame repair and modification, I will bring it in to be sand blasted and finished. This alone would have saved me about 6 weeks on this trailer. Live and learn! At least we have another trailer waiting in the wings to apply all we learn from this trailer.
I will post another series of pictures with more detail when we get back from Bend.
Ed
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Old 05-27-2014, 09:11 PM   #25
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hiya.....did you get rid of your fridge? I would make the drive for it!

Kim
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Old 01-11-2015, 09:39 PM   #26
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Hi Kim,

Send me a private message and I will send details if you are still interested. Sorry about the long delay in reply, we are just now getting back into posting and back working full time on the trailer.

Ed
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Old 01-11-2015, 09:47 PM   #27
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Speaking of working on the trailer, between May of 2013 and now it seems like I was just puttering. Work got done but in short spurts. I now wish I had posted more but at the time it did not seem like that much was getting done. In any case, I started back on the trailer full time just before the new year after not doing much for the better part of a year. I will start posting pictures again and fill in here and there with pictures from the last year and a half. More tomorrow.

Ed
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Old 01-15-2015, 04:23 PM   #28
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Here are some pictures taken last year starting with a picture of the floor after all of the bolt holes have been drilled and the countersinking for the bolt heads is done. There are about 200 bolts holding down the floor. The plywood is 3/4 inch marine grade and I primed and painted it with Sherwin Williams best exterior primer and latex topcoat. There are a lot of different methods used to seal the floor. I chose exterior paint because it is made to bond to wood, it remains permanently flexible through changes in temperature and humidity, it is made to be water resistant, it is relatively low odor and is reasonably cost effective and is easy to apply. I keep it available and touch up areas that get chipped or cut.

After the floor was cut to shape we used a small number of bolts to hold it in place and did a test fit with the body. I felt this was important since the old floor was in such poor shape it did not make a good pattern. The best corner from the old floor appeared to have a radius close to 22 inch so I made the radius of all the corners the same (22 inch). This made everything quite a bit easier (one pattern for all of the corners). I made the choice to do all corners the same, even though I could tell that not all of the corners on the old floor were the same. The body aluminum has enough flex that it easily formes around the corners. When we test fit the body it had plenty of room around the edge for the belly pan aluminum.

The next picture shows the piece of stainless I had bent to go under the floor over the step. I sealed around the edge with black polyurethane caulk. I used the same caulk to seal around the edge of the wheel wells.

The next picture shows the jack pads I made using angle iron and 1/4 inch plate (in the picture just to the rear of the wheel well opening). I wanted a very secure spot to lift the trailer since it is a single axle and we have added significant weight to the trailer (we bought a 5,000 lb axle).
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