Just an update and some pictures of the project.....I took good advice and stripped the upper interior to rewire....had a few nice days so I have been cleaning and painting interior panels and working on windows and various holes that leak. One picture shows results of lag bolts used to hold awning on....sigh....Any good ideas about dealing with spots like this are welcome! Ordered 2 windows to try some ideas (from Inland RV).....Did the tub and bathroom surfaces with polyamide epoxy. I brushed it..wish I had the means to have sprayed it, but it looks clean and shiny. The frame picture is from earlier in the month....glad that part is over and the floor is all in. I am taking lots of pictures and some day while I'm warming my toes by the fire, I will figure out how to put them all in a good format for sharing.
... One picture shows results of lag bolts used to hold awning on....sigh....Any good ideas about dealing with spots like this are welcome! ...
I use skin doublers inside and out, then a plate on the inside with nutplates. The pop rivets you see here will be replaced with bucked rivets whenever I finally remove the gaucho so I can get at the inside skin. http://www.airforums.com/forums/636720-post1.html
This photo is of the lower support backet for the front windown awning on my Safari, but you can see the plate with the nutplates attached. Same idea for the upper attachments [when I get a round tuit]. All the 1/8" holes are for the thru-rivets that hold the outer and inner doublers to the skin, as well as this nutplate plate. Nutplates [I've always called them that] are available from aircraft supply houses, like Aircraft Spruce and Specialty.
Making these doublers attractive, getting them to nestle into the rib, making sure there are the proper layers next to the rib to make things flush and flat (for example, there is a half-wide shim under the outside doubler, which is hidden in the photo, to adjust for the skin overlap there), etc., require several bazillion trips from shop to Airstream. Unless you're good, of course. I just keep making the trips. The doublers are installed with flush bucked rivets.
Zep
__________________ MindsEyePhotoAirstreamDoctorPygmyKayaker "It must be laid down as a primary position and basis of our system, that every citizen who enjoys the protection of a free government owes not only a proportion of his property, but even his personal service to the defense of it." - Washington
If the area is to be exposed, and you want it perfect-then welding/grinding/polishing is about the only repair outside of replacing the whole panel. if you are going to cover it up, then there are lots of remedies. a plate underneath with a "reverse dimple" in it would fill the hole (use sealer, of course) This will give you a virtually flush patch-either buck riveted or plan ahead with blind rivets. Also, 3m aluminum tape, again with a small amount of sealer around edges inside and out will seal the hole. That tape can have its edges feathered out by sanding-it is that tough-if completley hidden-you can cover with a layer of bondo for a smooth attachment point. If you take and make a robust aluminum "plate" to mount an awning (and cover any previous holes, damage, etc), do it at both ends, make them symmetrical, such that it looks like the extra stoutness was planned for from the very beginning..."small moulding for small mistakes, big moulding for big mistakes" (Clyde Smith, circa 1977-Rest in peace my old friend).
that's my $.02
ol' bill
I am considering pulling parts of my belly pan off to check over the frame. I haven't yet since I don't feel ready to gut the interior like you have. I guess it need to check from the bottom first to see if anything needs beefed up. Keep the photos coming.
Good ideas about dealing with the big awning holes.....I like the plate idea and may do that even though we do not plan to reinstall the awning for now. Now's the time to think about those things.
I am really considering doing away with the rooftop A/C unit as well....we will seldom camp in hot weather and I have been looking at the small portable units that look like a dehumidier and require a vent to the outside....sounds crazy at first, but sure would look nice in a retro kind of way...and it would be easy to provide for the vent now while doing all the "body" work, and plan for a storage place for it on board....
I like your idea with the portable A/C unit. About the holes. You can make patch with a piece of aluminum about 1/2 wider in diameter then the hole and stick it on with Tempro (Vulkem). Once the Vulkem cures the patch will not come off without a good putty knife and it's water tight. I did this on my Safari to cover a antenna hole and its lasted 4 years with no rivets and no leaks.
I agree with Lee on the patch - I did a very similar patch for a vent hole I no longer wanted (except w/rivets on the corners). It's not leaking and when I get a round tuit and want to make it prettier it's essentially easy to take off. The patch was good just so I could move on to the next waterproofing so I could finish my subflooring.
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