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Old 03-05-2007, 09:32 AM   #281
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The window that leaked was the one like you put in by the front door. It also had a steady drip on the one above from a screw in the glass bar.

Incidentally, I have vulkemed something and next thing I know it's raining... the caulk seems to hold up- but probably only if the seal is complete and there's no way for water to get behind it. Think about how hard it is to get Vulkem off with water---- like the stuff in my hair on Saturday!!
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Old 03-05-2007, 01:56 PM   #282
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water

You really want me to do that wet test don'tcha! I'll probably do it later. I never thought a screw in the glass bar would create a leak. Now I"m really glad I used bedding tape over the window top. None of my windows that open leak. Maybe this whole test is just all the hassle now instead of having to deal with it later!
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Old 03-08-2007, 06:22 PM   #283
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hmmmm...

Did a wet test of my side window by the door today, there were a few drops on the inside sill afterwards, but I don't know if it's a leak or if water got into the door, which doesn't close properly. I'm going to get a friend to go inside and look while I spray next time.

Ordered tanks! Grey and black. We're going to put the black tank in the back where it was, despite the fact that the bathroom will be curbside. This is new, as far as I can tell no one else has put the black tank away from the toilet. It won't be far away, and I hope it won't cause problems, but I need to have faith that my husband can do this and that it will work. If not, we re-draw plans and put the black tank under the lav, and we'll sell this black tank to someone else, it will fit many other trailers.

Cleaned every single thing out of the trailer, getting ready for the shell-off. I took a leaf-blower and blew out debris, blew debris out from under the rig, and swept. Nice clean work area and next we remove a brick planter that makes the driveway too narrow to work in. If we're going to do this we're going full bore and every time we back into the driveway we risk scraping the trailer on the bricks.

Next:

Put in one last window
Remove planter
Brace up shell with wood
Remove shell
POR 15 last areas of frame
Make tank box/install tanks
brace up frame if needed after tanks are in
Fix any floor issues (fitting curved edges to trailer)
Aluminum under step area
foil insulation under floor/over frame
install belly pan
shell back on

This should keep us busy for the next year or so, hopefully less.
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Old 03-08-2007, 08:32 PM   #284
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What ever you do, do not stop. You have come so far and are doing a killer job. It reminds me of a saying I once heard.

"If you find yourself going through hell, don't stop."
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Old 03-11-2007, 03:54 PM   #285
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Could this be the last time?

We successfully (again) installed the Lexan window in the front! All windows are now in and I just have to test for leaks and seal, etc. Maybe this really the last time I'll have to install a window!!

I have pictures for those who want a visual.

First put double sided tape on the windowpane.
Red tape paper comes off
Pre-bend the black bedding tape and stick it onto the pane over the clear tape.

Install the window bar with the screws started, but not tightened, from the inside of the trailer. Another person will have to hold the windowpane on the outside while you tighten the screws from inside.

Just make sure your windowpane is centered and all the way into the glass bar before you tighten.

Good luck!
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Old 03-13-2007, 03:25 PM   #286
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coupla questions

I have a few questions.

I removed the front "Airstream" sign from the trailer and there was a bunch of junk underneath. Should I put a thin gasket underneath the sign when I replace it? Or just put a little caulk in the rivets?

Is a polisher heavy? I'm debating getting one and working on polishing while I wait for the money to be saved for the next big step.

Can I use a sander or something to sand down the bottom corners of my new Lexan window? It would fit better.

Thanks anyone!
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Old 03-13-2007, 11:56 PM   #287
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Questions?

Ingrid, The junk under your front (and back) Airstream nameplate has been building up there for about 40 years! Don't put a gasket behind it when you re-install it. Just "butter" the rivets with Vulkem or sikaflex221 and pop it back in place after you restore it. Then seal the top and side edges with sealant as well to keep new junk from starting to collect for the next 40 years. You can sand the edges and corners of the Lexan window with an orbital sander but be very careful that it doesn't get away from you and mar the finish on either side of the Lexan. You would be best advised to remove the Lexan from the trailer and place it on a soft towel and clamp it to your work bench to sand the edges. Hope this helps... Ed

P.S. If you do polish it remember one thing... It will have to be re-polished at least twice a year from now on to keep the shine looking good. More often if salt spray gets to it! That is a lot of work! I'm am going to use the Walbernize product that Airstream sells to clean and maintain the clearcoat on older trailers like ours and go 'natural' as I am basically lazy at heart. If I could.... I would install silver vinyl siding on the exterior as a low maintenance finish. Hey! it worked on the house! No more painting in my future. Ed
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Old 03-14-2007, 12:56 AM   #288
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Yeah...polishing is not just a decision it's a commitment!! But it looks soooo good...I just wonder if I really am going to be polishing in between big jobs. I wish I could try a polisher and see if I really want to go through with it. I think I'm going to give it a try with a cheaper polisher to get an idea of what it entails and go from there.

I think I'll leave the window as it is! But I'm going to take your tip on buttering the rivet and sealing edges. The edge above the window where the rock guard was looks like it could use some caulking too. I probably have a ton of caulking ahead of me I might as well get started.

Thanks again!
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Old 03-14-2007, 01:04 AM   #289
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Don't...

Ingrid, If you are going to polish don't...don't... caulk now! You need to remove the caulk before you polish and re-caulk after the polishing is done. Ed
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Old 03-14-2007, 12:49 PM   #290
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Gotcha

InsideOut just warned me off. I think caulking is the job I can take on next. Any tips on removing old caulk? I have to go take a look and see if it's silicone or grey stuff.
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Old 03-14-2007, 03:28 PM   #291
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Seams

Here are some pictures of the exterior seams on my trailer. I don't see anything I need to scrape out except next to windows and around pipe vent covers. Should I just clean with mineral spirits and start caulking? We aren't sure what's going to vent where yet, so cleaning around the vents etc. might be a waste of time, but I'll definitely get cracking on cleaning around windows and re-caulking there.

What's a safe way to remove the gross green moss stuff?
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Old 03-14-2007, 05:23 PM   #292
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I would take duct tape and put it on both sides of each seam that needs it and get small tooth brushes they make them with brass bristles.

clean the seam.

Leave the tape on- caulk the seam press in the sealant, remove the tape.
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Old 03-14-2007, 08:09 PM   #293
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Lucky me

It looks like I have very little silicone used to seal. I only see grey where it was sealed, although the vents etc. might be a different story.

I used the PermaTex Gasket Remover and scraped it off with a stick. I'm going to do some of the seams that don't have a lot of previous caulking to remove with the bristle brush as suggested, with tape, and then Vulkem.

The Gasket Remover won't harm aluminum will it? It sure it getting it cleaned up!
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Old 03-14-2007, 08:17 PM   #294
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What did you do?

Hey Ingrid,

How did you get the rear "land Yacht" emblem off without breaking it. I cant see a way to get the one of the 68.
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Old 03-14-2007, 08:30 PM   #295
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Unless you have a leak at the seam do not waste your time and money.

Not to sound snooty, but after taking apart one of these beasts I have found that there is a 1 inch wide sealing "tape" at every joint except the windows. The rivet seams are really tight. If you have one that is wavy, it might be worth it, but otherwise save the time and money.

After that is said, just clean out the old junk from the windows and reseal them. I can send you the maintenance instructions for the windows (in PDF form) if you want.
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Old 03-14-2007, 09:33 PM   #296
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Thanks!

It sure looks to me like doing anything to my seams, since I don't see any silicone, would be a waste. I still might caulk them just for something to do. Right now only my windows look like they need it, so I'm doing my windows for sure. Yes, send me that .pdf! Any info is helpful, even if I don't use it.

Rodney, I don't think mine ever had that Landyacht sign. I saw your posts about getting it off and believe me if I had any ideas I'd have shared them with you! I only have it on the side by the door. I'm thinking about taking mine off too and fixing it up but it's not a priority.
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Old 03-14-2007, 10:05 PM   #297
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Hi!
Well your seams looked just like mine! I used many different things. Nasty stripper- makes the old vulkem really gooey- but easier to get out, some plastic scrapers, and those fake credit cards that come in the mail. I also used- very carefully (only around the windows) a small flat screw driver to clean out the tight places.

A harbor freight heat gun is a good deal too. It reallllly makes it easier.

And I had to caulk, prior to polish, due to the weather here and the rain pouring in. I have heard it will not look as pretty, but it's already dirty, just from sitting there- so I'm not going to freak on that. [I also stripped and sorta polished around all the windows and vents where I caulked, so I will just tape them off when taking the BIG plunge.]

I just bought the 29$ polisher from harbor freight (a little heavy- @ 15lbs) others have used it with success- so I'm going to try it! And I spent the big bucks on the Cyclo, Nuvite, etc....

If we get busy before Casini- it will be soooooo coool!

********I like your idea, to do what you can... all those small tedious jobs really add up, and you'll be so thankful later, when all you want to do is decorate and go!
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Old 03-15-2007, 12:15 AM   #298
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hmmmmm

We have a heat gun. Didn't think of that. So, the gasket remover does NOT harm aluminum? I'm only taping off places I'm scraping with a bristle brush or where it's close to gasket I want to keep.

I have some dental type tools I used to scrape out the old Vulkem from around the windows, it's working great. One is kind of almost like a very teeny tiny spoon shape. Then I"m doing a lot of spraying, wiping, scraping, spraying...

As far as seams go, I'm going to just clean and caulk seams that don't have anything on them. Because I'll be SO MAD if we go camping and the trailer leaks. Maybe it's not necessary but what else can I do until we take off the shell?

Read your PM in a second...
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Old 03-16-2007, 10:11 PM   #299
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Gasket remover shines my trailer!

I went out and removed old caulking from three windows today, back and two sides. I'm about halfway done with the front window, had to stop it got dark.

I'm wondering though, about the effect of the gasket remover on the aluminum; it sure is cleaning it up. Is it removing my clearcoat or just dirt?

Also does anyone have advice on refurbishing my emblems? I posted about it here.
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:55 AM   #300
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I used stripper, I don't know what gasket remover is all about- but it looks like it's removing clear coat! Looks good!
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