Progress on our '67 Tradewind

[BIGED52]

Ingrid, As promised...Finally... Here are the part numbers for the rock guard arms and holddown parts kit that I bought from my local Airstream dealer. You will need two of each part to attach your rock guard to the trailer. 1) part number 381021 rubber T handle $11.29 each. 2) part number 683960 arm, rock guard $21.85 each. Hope you can get these locally without having to order them from Jackson Center. If not, I may be able to get you them here as my local dealer seems to carry a large stock of repair parts for the Vintage Trailer do it yourself types. Ed

[sequoiacoast]

I spent all day yesterday prepping to install my first window. I decided to use the rear window as my 'first time' experiment, due to the cost of messing up my precious curved one.
Before I actually installed it, I re-read your "cursed windows" thread for further inspiration, and felt so sad when your window broke. And wouldn't you know it, on my way into the garage carrying the window, I knocked over a box of AS lights--- !!!! Luckily, only an already broken plastic lens, broke a little more.
And so, by 5pm, I had my first install complete (minus the trim)!

[pinkflamingoes]

Way to go! Did you do it by yourself or with help? The ones without molding are a two-person job, for sure. I ordered my new front window yesterday, it will be ready by Tuesday. The cost was $70, not as cheap as I'd hoped, but better than the other offers I got, and with gas costing what it is, my frustration at all of the obstacles to finishing the windows, and the rainy season coming, I went for it. They are a local family run business that does good work. I should have a trailer with complete windows by next weekend!!

Be careful!! I tried to give you window karma but apparently I've given you your share for now...

[sequoiacoast]

The window karma was with me!! I just installed the VTS window... and it's all DONE!! No breaks, feels solid, and I didn't even swear! The new window gasket makes the window stick out a bit, but I think that will relax as the gasket calms down.

I'm not the neatest painter, gluer, you name it - does your new gasket application have little glue globs that squeezed out when you stuck on the gasket? I was hoping for a nice clean look, but little blobs of that nasty glue poke up here and there.

My 14 y/o son helped me install both windows... luckily my 18 mo/o son took a nap right at the right time. My big boy sure is making his share of babysitting money due to mommy's OBSESSION!!

[pinkflamingoes]

Oooh yeah. I have glue blobs in places all over the trailer; but it comes off gently scraped with a plastic putty knife. I had it everywhere...I don't think anyone walks away from either POR15 or the gasket glue looking good!! I'll get around to cleaning it...it's much easier when it's dry, and I had gotten the gasket on and didn't want to mess with it right then, I just quietly tiptoed away...

Yes...the gasket will calm down. Make sure you spray silicone spray on it so that it doesn't stick to the window when you close it -- and then the window won't pull off the gasket when you open it next. Did you do that? Very important! Silicone spray can be purchased at any hardware store.

Post a picture! Do you have a thread of the fixing of your trailer?

We're driving (ugh) up to Washington State for Thanksgiving...can we drop by and say hi on the way, if it's not 2 am?

[sequoiacoast]

We would love a visit!! I'm pretty sure we'll be staying home (other option is the bay area visiting our relatives!).

I did spray the gaskets with silicone, maybe after soccer I'll get to post a pic.

I have always intended to start a thread on my restoration... but haven't yet. I am going to soon.. before it's all done. As it is, it will be sorta weird; I guess I'll just post a bunch in a row to catch up. It's on my to-do list. Honey-do is piling up as well: dinette, new sink cab. etc.....

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by BIGED52

Hope you can get these locally without having to order them from Jackson Center. Ed

Individual owners cannot order parts from the Airstream factory.

You must be a dealer in order to do so.

You can go through a dealer of your choice and have most parts dropped shipped from Airstream. However, the factory has a minimum dollar amount for each and every order. If the order is below that amount, a heavy surcharge will apply.

Accordingly, if it's a special part that you require, it is better for a dealer to order that part along with their "stock" order, but that sometimes means waiting a week or more for the part.

Andy

[BIGED52]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Individual owners cannot order parts from the Airstream factory.

You must be a dealer in order to do so.

You can go through a dealer of your choice and have most parts dropped shipped from Airstream. However, the factory has a minimum dollar amount for each and every order. If the order is below that amount, a heavy surcharge will apply.

Accordingly, if it's a special part that you require, it is better for a dealer to order that part along with their "stock" order, but that sometimes means waiting a week or more for the part.

Andy

Andy, If you were reading all the post you would notice that I stated that I got mine off the shelf from my local A/S dealer. I was telling Ingrid if her local Airstream dealer didn't have them in stock that mine might and I would be glad to pick them up here and send them to her. Just trying to help out an Airstream buddy. Sorry if you got the wrong impression. Ed

[pinkflamingoes]

Picked up the front window finally, just now. They hadn't called and I'd already stopped in to check if it was in last week...hmmm. Oh well, it looks good and will go in on a weeknight this week. It's safely stored far away from me in the garage back room.

BigEd, I have a friend in Martinez where the Airstream dealer is here in my area. I need to get her blender back to her, so I will use that as a reason to stop in at the dealer and see about the rockguard parts. If they don't have them, I'm going to go ahead and take you up on your offer.

Warning! We are seriously debating going to a shell-off job! I hope no windows break in the process!

[sequoiacoast]

Hi Ingrid!
So, a shell-off? Impressive. Scary. Fun?

[pinkflamingoes]

We've figured out through conversations at the NorCal Rally (you need to come to the next one, it was SOOO fun) that a shell-off will make tanks, flooring, frame bracing and belly pan much easier, and even got a few offers to come help with the shell removal and re-attachment. We're planning ahead, measuring, making a list of what we want to do with shell off, so it's not a long time without the shell. Many people say it's easier, but it's definitely over my head. I'm leaving this part to the knowledgeable ones.

You really seem to have some experience with this, have you worked on cars/boats/trailers before? I'm very impressed and inspired by your work! I think we're going for vinyl flooring too. Easy to clean and flexible.

[sequoiacoast]

I would love to go to a rally!! You are so right about it being easier- at least that is what it seems to me. I too would have done the shell-off if there was enough rot to substantiate it, if I had a better location to work in, and if the weather would cooperate. Last year on New years we had 100 mph winds that snapped a path of trees down as far as I could see! And throughout winter/spring we are known to have rains that last months !

I'm excited for your adventure and it's awesome you'll have help from knowledgeable people. That will make it less daunting!!

Thank you for your compliment- I have never done his before- to a trailer. But, I have been known to rip out a bathroom and re-model it. A curtain was hung and there was an understanding that the husband wasn't to look, or meddle until it was done !! This is the result of a stay-at-home mom who's a tad obsessive, a drop nutcase, and seriously motivated to have what she wants- NOW (impatient, nah )!!!

[pinkflamingoes]

OK folks, it looks like we're indeed doing the shell-off. I'm going out today to remove lower panels, or try to, but before we pull off the shell I want to think ahead about what we need to do so the shell isn't off for too long. Here's what I'm thinking.

When the shell is off, we need to:

• brace up the frame: there is slight rear end sag and it makes sense to do it anyway.
• get tanks and figure out where they go.
• insulate under the floor?
• put on the belly pan
• pull any necessary wires underneath the floor.

If anyone has any comments or suggestions, please let me know. I'm especially concerned about rust occurring because of insulation wicking moisture into the area under the floor, so insulation advice would be great. I have a husband who can weld, a contact for our tanks. I need advice on what belly pan metal to get and what wiring or plumbing to put under the floor when it's open.

Thanks y'all, come by for pie anytime.

ingrid

[pinkflamingoes]

Here's the window part I need...

[LI Pets]

I have posted this before, to end the wicking problem don't put anything but the foil Prodex back in.

Since you're taking the floor out just roll it over the frame before you install the new plywood.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes

Here's the window part I need...

That arm is part number 91427.

Andy

[Creampuff]

You will notice that A/S applied insulation to the floor bottom so it does not rest on the bellypan. This was done while the frame/ platform was upside downas was the bellypan- before they rolled it over and attached the shell. Obviously way easier for them back then.
Use the foil product and do the same. I use a layer of foundation product where the tanks will go. It's a thin high density rigid foam, but the other will work too. remember you will be strapping your tanks to the floor joists and they will be sandwich your insl. to the floor.
I think your bellypan material will be .032 " 5052 (can't remember)- a lower grade and more flexible product. Check Uwe's thread,('63 for me) it might be in there.
The frame supports will simply be plate steel sheared to the opening depth of your frame rails and inserted to make the frame a boxed rectangle instead of a C- channel. Do this from the axle back where you tanks will live. You could also do the tongue area as it helpd mounting the WD clamps.
Wiring:
The only wiring that will run through your frame rails goes to your 7-pin connector (tail/running/brake/charge/ground.etc) Run it down the side that your Univolt/ Intellipwer will live. You will need to cut (orig. loom) it below the frame as it that will come up through the floor atr/near the rear to your taillights,etc. If you do not rewire those you can re-connect in the belly later.
O.K. - I'm over my 3 cents! Get to work!!

[uwe]

Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes

OK folks, it looks like we're indeed doing the shell-off. I'm going out today to remove lower panels, or try to, but before we pull off the shell I want to think ahead about what we need to do so the shell isn't off for too long. Here's what I'm thinking.

When the shell is off, we need to:

It won't take long if you let Jeff do the floor and let him put the shell back on. You can then fiddle with the details while he's at work.

• Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes

  brace up the frame: there is slight rear end sag and it makes sense to do it anyway.

  You need to merely inspect the frame for severe rust damage,and provide a bit of reinforcement where the tanks eventually will go. You don't even need to do that if yo go with small tanks. The larger the tanks, the more frame reinforcement you need to do.
  The sag will disappear once the floor is bolted to the frame, and the shell is back on the U-channel.
  
  
  

  Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes

  get tanks and figure out where they go.

  My suggestion: put grey tank immediately behid the rear axle. Put black tank behind grey tank. Put frehs water tank immediately in front of the front axle. remember, you can use 2 grey and 2 fresh tanks if you want to use stock tanks, and interconnect them. Using two tanks might prevent you from having to modify the frame.
  I would strive for a 40gal min fresh tank, 30gal min grey tank, and 15gal min black tank. More is better, but too much is silly.
  
  
  

  Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes

  insulate under the floor?

  I used about one inch of closed cell insulation. Closed cell so that it does not absorb water. You can use other methods, but I am leary of teh fiberglass insulation for the flooring. A few layers of the bubble foil might work well also. I have a thin layer only under the tanks.
  
  
  

  Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes

  put on the belly pan

  Get .025 aluminum for this, and try a soft grade, so that you ( and Jeff) can make the compound curves front and rear. Or do you have banana wrap?
  
  
  

  Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes

  pull any necessary wires underneath the floor.

There are no wires under my floor, only the brake and battery cable, which run inside the frame to the spot where they need to enter the interior.
It might be wise to run a few extra 12V wires to the corners of the trailer inside the shell, in case you want to install littel lamps for the dump station ad for leveling when it is dark outside. Plus, the blue neon for cruising in Oakland...

Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes

If anyone has any comments or suggestions, please let me know. I'm especially concerned about rust occurring because of insulation wicking moisture into the area under the floor, so insulation advice would be great. I have a husband who can weld, a contact for our tanks. I need advice on what belly pan metal to get and what wiring or plumbing to put under the floor when it's open.

Thanks y'all, come by for pie anytime.

ingrid

Plumbing and wiring depends largely on your layout. You must decide on your layout first before going any further.

[pinkflamingoes]

We continue in this order:

• Layout interior, figure out where tank holes go in the floor.
• I finish taking off inner skins (see progress pics below)
• we brace the shell and get it off the frame.
• brace around tank area (Uwe that's exactly what we plan to do, according to you and Creampuff's advice).
• install tanks
• run brake, battery, and extra 12v wires (can't hurt).
• insulate, install floor
• get belly pan on (we do have banana wrap still)

I was able to remove two inner skins today, and clean out the insulation, had to grind off a few bolts that were rusted together and were holding on the inner panel. I also removed almost all the rivets from the streetside inner skin. That rivet removal tool has already come in very handy!

Done for the day, continuing tomorrow. Here's pics:

[Creampuff]

Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes

I also removed almost all the rivets from the streetside inner skin. That rivet removal tool has already come in very handy

Ingrid:
Post a picture or details on said "rivet removal tool'.
I think I could use one ( just re-did the endcap on an '88 MH- 150+ rivets!!)