Greetings Steve!
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Originally Posted by Captmorg
Thanks Kevin and Ken....
Would you recommend changing the water system to the demand type? How about the electical system?
Got another question off topic but,.....all that rodent nesting material...I found chewed up oven mitts...T Paper..etc, etc....what is my insulation material?...could some of it have been....turned into nests?
I appreciate the warm welcomes I've gotten and look forward to the fun work ahead. I'll post some pictures soon too.
Steve
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There is only one reason that I would suggest considering such a change, and that is if your galvanized water tank is beginning to show evidence of developing pin-hole leaks. From what I have been able to learn, the formation of pin-holes is what kills most of these tanks and I know of several owners of '61 model coaches that have had to convert to demand systems when the galvanized tank failed - - they are not easily repaired, and are very difficult to find in the replacement market (new replacements are available, but the problem is in locating one that will fit in the available face - - unlike the plastic tanks, custom sizes are not readily available in the galvanized "pressue tanks"). The biggest down-side to making the change is that the external fill often requires some type of modification and is typically the only readily identifiable evidence that the conversion has been made.
The electrical system will likely be much more useful to you with the addition of a power converter and a modern RV battery - - assuming that you don't plan to be in a full-service campground all of the time - - I caravan and attend numerous rallys so I find the versatility of being able to have ample battery reserve to be quite a benefit. A GlassMat or Gel Cell battery will require fewer modifications for venting than a common lead/acid battery - - I have three gel cell batteries in my Overlander and have been absolutely thrilled with their durability and long-life (they sit in a storage compartment over the axles near the water tank), but they do require a quality battery charger with adequate controls to prevent over-charging. Most of the modifications necessary to add the battery and power converter can rather easily be hidden so that it will not be an obvious change, but one that will increase the versatility of the coach.
On the 120-volt AC side, you may find the need to upgrade to a more modern breaker box and entrance cable system. The Bargman 30-amp connector used in '61 is virtually unavailable - - both the receptacle found on the side of the coach as well as the end that fits on the extension cord. If your coach has both of these and they are in good condition, be prepared to take good care of them as they are virtually non-replaceable. The '64 had a slightly different arrangement, but due to damage I had mine replaced and upgraded for greater safety - - the photo below shows the updated electric and city water entrances (unfortunately these were done before I became acquainted with my Vintage Friendly Airstream dealer and are typical of the work done by Camping World).
One of the reasons that I had the electric upgraded was that I knew the original Bay Breeze Air Conditioner was nearing the end of its useful life and I would soon need to be upgrading to a new air conditioner and the old breakers in the '64 were becoming troublesome and the electric entrance cable had been identified as a fire and shock hazard.
The insulation material utilized in Airstreams of the period was typically fiberglass batt. There have been a number of reports of the insulation below the floor being filled with rodent nests - - as well as reports of rodent runs having been found within the wall insulation. Generally, fiberglass isn't a first-choice nesting material for rodents, but I have seen eveidence of some fiberglass fibers in some of the nests that I have evicted from rental properties that I have cleaned.
Good luck with your coach!
Kevin
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