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Old 07-02-2014, 06:40 PM   #29
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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Lucky for me the axles really only go one way, otherwise I'd have them upside down! The axles carry the weight of the trailer. The angle bracket welded to the axle rests on the frame rails. I think the attached photo will help you visualize how the axles are mounted to my Trade Wind. The Running Gear / Axles forum is very informative on mounting new axles. I read a bunch of good info there.

Trady66 was asking when to plan on installing new axles. I mounted the axles after I had the floor rot fixed, the frame cleaned and painted, the under floor insulated, the waste water tanks mounted and plumbed, the furnace ducts ran, and the new belly pan riveted in place. The new axles were nearly the last job on my Trade Wind renovation project. If a person is doing the "full monte" body off renovation, then the axles are mounted likely before the body is married again to the frame.

Hope this helps a bit.

David
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:48 PM   #30
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1965 26' Overlander
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I had to notch the plate as well, now trailer(65 overlander) sits too low! I was pissed about that , but have since calmed down. The fix is 1 1/2 square tube to space axle and frame then weld extension plates to existing frame plates to bolt axles on. This is a complete PITA considering I don't weld! Not to mention the additional $500!


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Old 07-03-2014, 12:29 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Lucky for me the axles really only go one way, otherwise I'd have them upside down! The axles carry the weight of the trailer. The angle bracket welded to the axle rests on the frame rails. I think the attached photo will help you visualize how the axles are mounted to my Trade Wind.
David
David, photo didn't "come thru" . . . so I'm converting my Leaf Sprung trailer to a Torsion Axle. And if I fabricate the mounting plate as directed and have it welded onto the face of the Frame, the 2" wide, upside down "U" shaped "bracket" will not be against the Frame - they will be an inch or some fraction of an inch away from each other . . . and it sounded like in your post, that they need to be bearing on each other. In my case the Bolts would be "in shear" and would be taking the entire load . . . which doesn't feel quite right.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:12 AM   #32
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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Here is the photo I meant to attach to my post above. I must have messed up somehow.

Interesting comment about your trailer now sitting too low after the axle insulation. I think mine is lower too, but I did not take before and after measurements to verify.

David
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Old 07-03-2014, 11:57 AM   #33
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Thanks guys. That helps alot. Sounds like it can wait, and my brain can start to try and tackle that problem at the end. Way to many things already to think about, but will re-read when I get to that stage, hopefully in a few months!
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Old 08-02-2014, 01:31 PM   #34
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Hi Guys,
Been rewiring the trailer working lights. Having a problem. The rear lights are working when I put the 4-ways on, but they are quite dim. I then put the ground into the fuse box at the back, and then the left signal becomes really bright but the right one does not work at all. Not really sure where the ground should be attached to etc, think this might be the problem? Anyway had similar problems? Thanks guys.
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Old 08-02-2014, 04:23 PM   #35
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Ok little further info. Been messing around all afternoon. I have got all the running lights working apart from the back right signal. I hooked up the right signal to the left signal wire to check it isn't a grounding problem and it worked fine. I also did a continuity test on the right signal wire from connector to the wire connection at the rear, and all is good. Really have no idea now, what could be the issue? Any ideas?
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Old 08-02-2014, 06:51 PM   #36
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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Hi Trady66. One more test you might try on that right turn signal. You verified the colored wire has continuity, should be very low resistance, like less than 2 ohms. Now switch your multi meter to 12 volts and verify you have something like 12.5 volts delivered to the bottom of the bulb bayonet socket. You demonstrated the left is an energized wire and will blink the right side bulb. Verify the right side wire is also energized. If not, verify your tow vehicle is delivering 12 volts to the wire at the pin connector. After that, I'm lost!

I assume your tail light and brake light work on the right side. I think there are three colored wires coming to this two blub rear light fixture; tail light, brake light, and turn signal. The exterior skin is the ground that completes the circuit. Crummy grounds are a source of all kinds of problems with automotive 12v circuits.

An old, wise man told me the resistance from the body of the Airstream to the ground connection (rear curb side frame rail) ought to be less than 50 ohms. I had to file and wire brush both the white ground wires (2) and the frame member to get a good ground. Mine now measures less than 2 ohms no mater where on the exterior skin I test a ground.

I puttered with my 66 today also. I removed the stove hood vent and fan, cleaned it up, and repainted it. The PO had applied stickers to the front of it which took the paint when I removed them. It looked bad, but better now.

I also tested the AC for the first time. It worked beautifully! Yeah! Clap, clap, clap! It was blowing out 50 degree air on a 85 degree day. I could hang a half a beef in there and it would keep! It seemed to work better than my new AC on the 86 Limited.

David
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Old 08-02-2014, 07:16 PM   #37
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Hi David,
Thanks for the reply as always. That is a good idea to verify the right wire with the left signal. I will try that.

Also, interested in your two ground wires. Right now, my ground wire runs all the way from the trailer connector to the rear of the connector where it is connected to the inside of the rear compartment, on the aluminium. This might have been my mistake. I haven't got two ground connector wires. Could you help explain that a little and where they are connected to and spliced etc? Thanks a ton. Thins one is driving me crazy....
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Old 08-03-2014, 05:41 AM   #38
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I don't have a good picture of the 12v ground "bolt" that was located at the rear curb side frame. It is an "elevator" bolt through the wire eyelet connectors, through the C channel, and through the upper lip of the frame rail. There were two white ground wires attached. One was from the 12v tow vehicle ground wire, and one was from the 12v converter. There is a ground "buss" in the fuse panel that has several white wire grounds attached. But the "buss" is ultimately grounded to the frame. This bolt can get corroded and loose which diminishes the ground conductivity.

Here is a picture of the Airstream 12 volt circuit diagram. 12 volts run all the lights, the fan motors. and the water pump. The tow vehicle runs the external lights and brakes.

I also included a picture of my fuse panel before I replaced it. See all the white wires going to the "ground buss". The top white wire leaves the fuse panel and goes to the frame connection. I had excessive 12 voltage ripple causing my new See Level water tank level indicators to be erratic. This is the reason I installed a new 12v converter and fuse panel.

Trying to be a little help in your right side turn signal malfunction...

David
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Old 08-03-2014, 08:09 AM   #39
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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Knowledge is power! I thought I would post pictures of the 7 pin connector wiring diagram from my owner's manual. The wire colors are Airstream specific in 1966. They do NOT match modern wire color standards that you find posted on the Internet for 7 pin trailer connectors. Having this wiring diagram was invaluable to me as I replaced my old, brittle, worn out 7 pin connector on my 66 Trade Wind.

I also included a wiring diagram of the interior of the trailer. There are three 12 volt circuits going here and there. And there are two 115 volt circuits running the outlets. Also a third exclusive circuit for "future" air conditioners. The 115v circuits are shown in red.

The wiring diagram does not show the 12 volt ground. But follow the wire from the negative post of your battery through the fuse panel and you will find it behind the curb side interior skin over the frame rail.

David
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:44 AM   #40
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Thanks so much David for all the info. Followed your advice. I think I have figured out the problem. I hooked a ground wire directly from the pin on the tow vehicle to the rear ground point. Then I took another wire and tested the left and right signal directly hooked to the tow vehicle hitch, and the signals would light when I touched the left pin, but not the right. So the problem is that the right signal on the tow vehicle is not outputting enough voltage. After all that, all was ok in the airstream! Just need to get tow vehicle fixed and completely make sure. I think what happened is a had a LED Tester Connector on the tow vehicle and it would light the right signal on the tester, but that is just one LED, and so when you take it to a full bulb it is not enough voltage.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:11 AM   #41
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
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Good job Trady66. Your diagnosis makes sense. It doesn't take much to fire a LED, but a lot more to fire a 2 amp blub. Your favorite service tech can trace the poor connection to the right turn pin.

David
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