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Old 03-16-2014, 10:28 AM   #15
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Hi all,
Just thought I would give a quick update on progress. It was your guys help that has got me this far! Bigger project than I imagined, given zero skill to begin with, but I've had to learn fast!

I've por15'd the frame. Removed all the old/rotted pieces of wood. I was lucky as the floor was in pretty good state.

I put new runners onto the stairs so they now fold out with just one finger to pull them, and are solid to stand on.

Replaced the old subfloor with new plywood. I did it all frame on, and have added wood braces under the subfloor to add additional strength.

Removed the dent in the belly pan just by using a rubber mallet from the inside, it was pretty easy (you can see the difference in the pics)

Now just this weekend I've applied two coats on penetrating epoxy to the subfloor to strengthen and also seal the floor to any leaks.

I also removed the rear bumper compartment that had created most of the water damage, and come up with my own system to keep out the water. I applied marine polyurethane sealant all the way along the back where the aluminium frame meets the subframe at the rear and creates a channel to the subfloor. The sealant has stopped any water from entering into the back so far, so seems like an effective solution.

That's been the last few months weekend work, so feeling like finally it is getting in a better place. But learning all the time still.

Quick question to help me on the next step. I want to remove the shelves/unit on the front section above the window. Has anyone done this? It looks like they are molded into the inner skin? Anyway have any advice, as I just want a smooth surface at the front?

Thanks for all your help. - Mike
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:49 AM   #16
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1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg , Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trady66 View Post
Hi all,

Quick question to help me on the next step. I want to remove the shelves/unit on the front section above the window. Has anyone done this? It looks like they are molded into the inner skin? Anyway have any advice, as I just want a smooth surface at the front?
Mike

Very nice work that you are doing. My compliments to you.

As far as the molded front shelf goes, I just went out and took a good look at mine. I did not even realize that it was molded into the front inner skin. I see no way to deal with this except to remove the molded inner skin and replace it with separate aluminum pieces that are riveted together just like the exterior skin is made.

Keep up the good work.

Dan
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Old 03-17-2014, 10:19 AM   #17
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BTW, nice work with the rubber mallot.
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Old 03-17-2014, 10:56 AM   #18
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Brooklyn , New York
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Thanks Dan. Need to get some better after shot of the dent removal, but the rubber mallet did the trick. It wasn't pretty, but it worked! Will post some better after shots to help people with.

Will have another look also at the front shelves. Really don't want to have to create new panelling!

There are a lot of holes in the current panelling from various sockets etc. I need to cover this/fill them in. Wondering if a fiberglass patch would work. This could also work on the molding in the front section?

Thanks for your kind words, onwards!
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Old 03-17-2014, 11:03 AM   #19
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Trady66 you are making excellent progress it is looking good.
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:55 PM   #20
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Been a busy few months....Took out all the old insulation and sealed the leaks and installed a layer of prodex. I used a 1/4 insulation barrier to create an air gap against the skin. I didn't take any pictures of it, but used double sided carpet tape to attach the furring strips to the skin and then to the prodex. Worked a treat, no mess and very easy.

So now moving onto the next stage, putting in new wiring, which I am going to get an electrician to do, a little beyond me. And also installing new dual glaze awnings windows into the front and back. Trying to find a manufacturer, and found someone local, but if anyone has any tips, would be much appreciated!?

I am also looking to put in new wiring for the trailer lights and brakes (brakes, turning lights etc). Searched the forums but can't find what part to order. Trying to find a complete harness that I can order, does anyone have any leads or advice?

Also I am having trouble with the door. It has a gap all around, and is not flush with the rest of the surface. Read a lot of the posts, but not really sure how to tackle this. Again, any advice would be really appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:44 PM   #21
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bump...

Can anyone help answer the questions above?
1) what type/where to buy a complete trailer lighting/brake set for the signal lights, brakes lights, brakes etc.
2) front and back dual glaze window replacement
3) door problems - have a 1/4 inch gap all around.

Thanks very much guys.
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Old 06-24-2014, 01:49 PM   #22
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Oxford, , Mississippi
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Vintage Trailer Supply may have the tail lights, check with them.
Exterior Lights

Not sure what you mean about dual glaze window? The only thing that will fit factory frame is single pane (1/8 in thick) glass. You can get regular or tempered flat glass from any good glass shop. I don't remember the exact measurments so check carefully as there is not a lot of "wiggle" room. Tip, before you leave the glass shop, measure the glass. My wife broke my rear window (long story) and I got a replacement. After several hours of work cleaning the old sealant and fitting the new pane, I went out to put the glass back into the frame on the trailer and found they had cut the glass 1/2 too long. That was just enough extra that it would not fit properly and I had to re do the rear window for the 3rd time. I used regular glass on the rear. There are pros and cons of regular vs tempered and I went with regular. VTS has the curved side windows if you need those.

The door on my 68 sits a little "proud" around the top but with a new gasket it doesn't leak and I just don't worry about it. Yours looks a little more serious. If you search the old forums there are threads on how to bend the door back into shape. They say it has some risk as the frame is cast aluminum and you can crack it. Maybe one of the resortation "pros" will have tips for you.
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Old 06-24-2014, 02:15 PM   #23
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Congrats!

Congrats on your new Tradewind, awesome year and floorplan.....but Im a little biased too!

Look forward to more pics of your renovations! I washed mine today.
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Old 06-25-2014, 04:41 AM   #24
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I have never seen a precut wiring harness for Airstream exterior lights and brakes. I have done considerable work on the "basement" of my 66 Trade Wind including bath floor replacement, frame POR 15, new waste tanks, new insulation, new belly pan, new axles, new propane lines and more.

I installed a new "7 pin" connector for my trailer. The wiring junction point is under the floor along the curb side frame rail in the front of the trailer. There is an access panel in the belly pan to this junction point. The bundle of 12 v wires run inside the frame C channel all the way to the rear of the trailer. The wires branch out from this bundle. Let me see if I remember all the wire functions: ground, battery charge, brakes, running lights, tail lights, left turn, right turn, brake light, back up lights.

I did not replace this wire bundle as mine all worked. It would be a son of a gun to replace it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

The picture is my junction point in the frame rail. The blue tape are labels I put on the wires to hopefully help someone in the future.

Exterior replacement lights are readily available. Vintage Trailer and Inland RV come to mind. I replaced all of mine with LED type which are considerable brighter.

My door also sticks out from the rest of the skins. My hinge pin and bushings are quite loose which contributes to the miss alignment. Some Airstream dealers are quite good at fixing sprung doors. I have not worked on mine yet, a project for another day. But these Air Forums have quite good information on what some folks have done to re-set their doors.

David
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Old 06-30-2014, 10:37 PM   #25
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Trady66

The windows are all single pane. No such thing as an insulated glass window for a 66. Hopefully your frames and hardware are fine and all you need to replace is the window glass. The original pot metal cast "arms" usually break but replacements are available from VTS.

Dan
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:41 AM   #26
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Brooklyn , New York
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Great. Thanks for the advice guys.

I tracked the fault in the trailer lights to the hitch hook-up so am replacing that and putting in a new junction box to clean-up the wiring.

The door is another issue! Can't find any thread with a similar problem. The window hinge on the front and back windows is missing, so if anyone has any solves, all ears!

Getting the wiring and panels back on over next few weeks. Starting to re-build finally. One question, I think I am going to need to replace the axles, can I do this at anypoint. I don't see any disadvantage to doing so?
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:08 AM   #27
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I replaced the axles on my 66 Trade Wind. Colin Hyde treated me very well with this big purchase. The axles are like the first parts to come off and the last part to go on. My trailer was on jack stands all winter and spring. You will have to drill new bolt holes and grind the slot deeper for the new axles. I made a template after careful measuring so I could more quickly mark where to drill and grind. It is critical the axle mounting brackets rest firmly against the trailer frame rails. That's what carries the load. The bolts just hold the axle up.

I can't help you with the window hinge. I think the hinge bar is available, but it is firmly attached to the glass. Silver Trailer Supply in Salt Lake has used parts available and maybe can help with a replacement.

David
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:58 PM   #28
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please excuse the hijack . . . when you say, "It is critical the axle mounting brackets rest firmly against the trailer frame rails" do you mean the approximately 2" wide, sort of upside-down "U" shaped bent metal "bracket" . . . that the bottom of that "U" (or the top of the upside-down "U") is tight against the Frame?
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