New 1965 Trade Wind Double (Help!)

[Neophyte]

We recently purchased a 1965 Trade Wind in OK shape. All original inside with some minor additions (towel racks, lamps, receptacles, stuff like that). All major appliances are there but don't know what works beyond the refrigerator at this point.

We are planning on:
1.Gutting the inside to the shell and refinishing all the wood in our spare time while we do the rest of the work.
2.check out the holding tanks, furnace, water pump and heater, oven/stove
3.rework the electrical and water supply
4.install two pieces belly pan (missing). Is this something for the dealer at $900.00 per piece or can it be done by someone half-ways competent?
5.remove windows, vents and door, put in new weatherstripping, fix screens, glass and openers,
6.have bathtub fixed (small cracks)
7.remove the floor covering and repair any problem areas in subfloor
8.paint the entire inside
9.polish, put windows, vents and door back on
10.lay a new floor (vinyl, laminate, ?)
11.reinstall interior in original configuration
12.and then DECORATE (her job)

What we really need to know is whether we have approximately the right sequence for the work? What don't you want to tell us until we're too far gone to stop? Should we be concerned about the condition of the frame? Rust issue due to the two pieces of missing pan?

Are split rims really a problem? We bought two new tires to get her home from Detroit and then read somewhere to replace them. It has Kelsey-Hayes two shoe electric brakes. Are parts still available?

Also, read somewhere that after 1964, the interior had some kind of vinyl on the walls and ceiling; is this true? It doesn't feel like anything other than painted aluminum.

Thanks for reading this far. Any suggestions or feedback will be much appreciated.

[pinkflamingoes]

Another Tradewind back in circulation! Yeah! Congratulations on your purchase! I like the fact that you consider it "new".

OK, I'm not an expert but here's what I think in my experience. We have a Tradewind also and here's what I know, and I unfortunately can't give any more detail because this is as much as I know. Others here can give you more info depending on your model and year and condition.

I'm working on a '67.

If you're gutting it, keep stuff for templates and don't throw away the bathroom like we did. If you're not using it again you can sell it to someone who needs it.

You can buy pieces of aluminum and rivet it in for the missing belly pan pieces. We have not done this yet so no details, but it's definitely something you can do yourself (we're told).

Since you're missing two belly pan pieces, you should be able to get under and look at the frame and see if it's rusty or needs welding. We pulled ours up on a homemade couple of ramps and it helped a lot with work that needed to be done down there and is still not done. Post pictures of the frame and maybe someone here can tell you what needs welding or if at all. Ours needs very little.

Most importantly, POST PICTURES!!

Definitely check the floor and replace parts that are bad or replace the whole floor if you think it needs it.

Welcome to the obsession!!

[Hippo]

Replace the split rims with steel or polished aluminum wheels. Then you can run tubeless tires. I would put on radial tires. Check with Inland RV for brake parts etc.
Chuck

[eljay]

Welcome! Always nice to see another Tradewind and another Airstream in Missouri! Ingrid has given you some excellent advice. You'll also want to check the axels. Your trailer and ours (66 Tradewind) have a lot in common. I'll help with info as I can.

[balrgn]

Welcome New Trade Wind! Do a good inspection of your flooring. That repair could consume a fair amount of time and effort. This Forum is a great resource for help. Hope your looking forward to adventure as much as we are! Check out my wwebsite for some pics of my 75 Trade Wind restoration.... Still in porgress.

[87MH]

Originally Posted by balrgn

....Do a good inspection of your flooring. That repair could consume a fair amount of time and effort......

Ditto what balrgn said above - any flooring/plywood issues are best addressed with an attack from both above and below - so finish the flooring work prior to reinstalling the belly pan.

Since the belly pan is already off many of the issues you may want to replace or reroute may best be served by an installation from under the floor (water, gas, electricity, drains). Remember to place a drain valve at any "low point" of a water run.

I would be really surprised if you did not find any wood rot issues - I tore out the very back of the Sovereign the other night - only two small sections of bad wood were visible from above (however, more was visible from below looking up), but found that almost all of the wood under the "C" ("U") channel was compromised - what a shocker.

Polishing could well be put off for another season - get it ready and go camping as soon as you can - polishing can proceed at a later date.

Replacing the belly pan is for sure a DIY project. .024 Aluminum is easily cut with an inexpensive three piece set of aviation snips (straight, right, and left hand cutters) - no need to purchase Clecos or anything like that - just throw a screw in if you need a temporary holdup -

Please keep the Forums posted as to what you find and do.

[Over59]

With no belly pan you have a special risk of frame rust under the floor on the top surface of the frame. If this trailer was towed like this on wet road then the water would get between the frame and the floor, held there by the old fiberglass matting. This becomes so intergrated with the steel that even with the floor out it may look like heavy surface rust when in fact it's a rust through. This should IMHO be your first concern. You cann't determine this from looking at the lower parts of the frame, unless of course they are bad. If it has been sitting like that you may be OK.
I think for you the Full Monty is the more direct approach. You don't want to put hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars in without a full assessment of the frames intergity.
The good news is you will be ahead of the curve if you do it right. You are already doing most of the work needed to take the shell off. You could do a shell supported full floor removal and only remove the shell if you need to take the frame to a welder.
Many people get all excited about the finish work. The floor looks "OK" from the top in the middle of the kitchen and bath and they move on to the fun stuff. You have to check the floor under the channel that holds the floor and shell together, also where the ribs sit on the floor. These need to be solid.

For a gross guess drill a line of three holes up from the bottom along a cross frame. Go up top and drill into the floor were you think the cross frame should be. You should notice a solid resistance if the steel is still their. If you don't then you may have top rust through. Frankly, just the smell issues make replacing the whole floor worth the effort if you are going to kept the trailer.

Good Luck and Welcome to the Madness

[Neophyte]

Thanks for the welcomes and inputs, specially regarding the frame. The trailer sat in somebody's yard for 5 years before we bought it and the PO had no clue as to when or how the two rearmost sections of bellypan "went missing." What kind of support structure do I need to hold the empty shell up. I guess what I'm asking is how much will it weigh empty and how many support points will it need to avoid damage? Is there a thread you could point me to that addresses Airstream evisceration? Again, thanks.

[eljay]

Leave it to Over59 to suggest the Full Monty...

[till]

Oh come on, the "Monty" is not too bad. You will enjoy it, really.

[Neophyte]

How much interior skin needs to be removed in order to access the hold-down bolts and what sort of support does the shell require when lifting off the frame?

[balrgn]

Originally Posted by Neophyte

How much interior skin needs to be removed in order to access the hold-down bolts and what sort of support does the shell require when lifting off the frame?

You should be able to access it from the inside. I cheated big time. Check out my page.

http://www.balrgn.com/Airstream/airstream_project_2004.htm

I used a 4" grinder to cut the hold down fasteners, made my template to cut the plywood, got everything to fit snug and drilled and installed lags from the bottom side. No panel removal required.
If you need more Pics for an example I think I have a bunch. Not the traditional method but saved me a ton of time and aggravation.....

[till]

The other way is to remove the bottom interior skin (read about 1/3) and the belly pan.

I admit that doing the Full Monty is a LOT of work. I am in the middle of pulling my trailer apart and it is very time consuming. But as I see it this is the only route one can take to bring a highly abused coach back to life for another 30+ years of trouble free service.

Doing the "Full Monty" is not something to just do on a whim. It requires a major commitment. So think through what you want and what you are willing to do. There is advice all over the forum that will help you, but it is you that will have to do the work. Make sure you know what you can and can not do.

[Over59]

The level and number of skill to do a Full Monty are not know to me yet as I am just taking the shell off today, I hope. To get to this point I would say the skills are rather modest. If you are comfortable with a drill you are all set. Actually removing the shell involves skill with supporting the structure, raising it, more supporting it, ect. There are several techniques.
If you are going that route I would recommend you get a rivet drill doda for about 50$ and extra bits. I found it very helpful for speed and accuracy. It does take a few dozen to get the hang of it.
If you are not comfortable with a drill then I think you would be heading for a bad time. Always wear leather gloves when working with the panels if your appendages are important to you.
Malcolm and others have shell on techniques on other threads. I just found it ackward to work around all the support and I want the frame blasted and in the end new belly pan.
Good luck. When done you will belong to a rather special club and be able to park in the vintage section at rally's. And that's worth the trouble.

[eljay]

Over59, I think you all need a sticker "I did the Full Monty"...

[Neophyte]

My thanks and gratitude for all responses. I've located several threads that address specific steps that I'm trying to get clear in my head and will follow those. Again, thanks.

[Over59]

Originally Posted by eljay

Over59, I think you all need a sticker "I did the Full Monty"...

Actually the frame went to the sandblaster today. A long way to go, but now it's putting it all back together. Now the money really starts to fly.