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08-24-2012, 08:50 PM
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#41
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4 Rivet Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 252
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Today was the big day! Maybe not the big day, but a pretty significant one. The shell went back on!
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08-25-2012, 07:31 AM
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#42
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,919
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Horray!!! THE SHELL HAS LANDED!
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09-19-2012, 07:20 PM
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#43
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4 Rivet Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 252
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New front and back panels are on!
I broke out the Cyclo polisher:
And invented the Psyclo Diet, which mainly involves standing in the right place at the right time:
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09-24-2012, 08:08 PM
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#44
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4 Rivet Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 252
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Heresy! I have made the name plate black!
New patch is on:
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11-29-2012, 09:07 PM
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#45
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4 Rivet Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 252
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01-26-2013, 06:57 PM
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#46
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4 Rivet Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 252
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01-26-2013, 07:19 PM
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#47
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3 Rivet Member
1957 26' Overlander
Victoria
, British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 124
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Nice work. Been following your blog, looks beautiful. Are you going to paint your interior, or polish?
I am doing a 57 overlander, nearing cabinet stage. So much fun!
Mark
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01-26-2013, 08:58 PM
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#48
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4 Rivet Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 252
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Thanks Mark! I think we will use a brushed aluminum. It is actually the back side of white painted aluminum panels, but it looks a little like the new airstream interior skins.
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01-26-2013, 09:13 PM
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#49
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3 Rivet Member
1957 26' Overlander
Victoria
, British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 124
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Can't wait to see it! I am going to paint. I do like the brushed look too, but I can't see myself rebuilding the end-caps in brushed, and I wouldn't like it mixed with the walls brushed and the end caps polished...not to mention the extra $$.
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01-27-2013, 07:15 AM
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#50
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4 Rivet Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 252
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I saw that once, with the interior brushed and the endcaps polished and it looked really good! If you look closely at the belly pan of my trailer, that metal is brushed and the rest of the trailer is polished. It really isn't very noticeable.
Here's and example of the opposite, although the endcap has been painted silver.
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02-23-2013, 08:21 PM
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#51
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4 Rivet Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 252
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The first layer of Prodex insulation is in, we added air conditioner supports (two new partial ribs and several straight pieces), the 120 volt wiring is in, and part of the 12 volt is in. The green is where we added some heavy duty aluminum bent into a C shape.
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02-23-2013, 09:41 PM
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#52
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3 Rivet Member
1957 26' Overlander
Victoria
, British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 124
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Looking sweet
I did something similar using 1" box channel aluminum. I made 2 braces that ran rib to rib and a couple cross members to support the 96lb AC unit. That wasn't too hard. Getting the AC unit on the roof was a bit of a chore though!
I am a little bit ahead of you on the interior, but haven't done the polishing.
I just got the inner skins back into my Overlander-- 700 rivets! My electrics and plumbing are all done- now onto the cabinets!
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02-24-2013, 05:18 PM
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#53
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,919
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Suggestion...as you add the second layer of insulation and the interior skins, mark where the wiring is located so you don't drill into them. A sharpie works great and will wipe off of aluminum with MEK.
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04-11-2013, 06:38 PM
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#54
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4 Rivet Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 252
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The front and back endcaps are finished!
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04-11-2013, 06:46 PM
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#55
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Rivet Master
1959 26' Overlander
Western
, Massachusetts
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,468
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Wow. Your work looks professional.
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04-20-2013, 08:24 PM
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#56
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New Member
1964 24' Tradewind
Orlando
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 4
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Some questions regarding shell-off floor replacement
Thanks so much for all your work journalling the restoration. I am about to start on my own 1964 Tradewind, and have a few questions:
1) How did you transfer the shape of the old floor to the new floor? Did you make a giant transfer pattern, use the shell to trace onto the new floor, or what? I don't want to go too far and realize I should have made a giant pattern or something!
2) What did you use for the new U-channel material? I imagine I need to replace all of mine.
Thanks!
__________________
Troy & Joelle Strasters
Orlando, FL
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04-20-2013, 08:56 PM
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#57
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4 Rivet Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 252
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Hi Tstraters,
When we removed the old subfloor, we traced it onto a new sheet of plywood, cut it out and then made sure the curve was the same. It was a little tricky since most of the rounded corners were rotten through, so we had to be very gentle with the old floor. For the new u-channel, we used .030 (or .032, I don't remember off hand) sheet aluminum and had it bent into that shape by a local fab shop.
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04-23-2013, 05:05 PM
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#58
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4 Rivet Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 252
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05-15-2013, 08:30 PM
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#59
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4 Rivet Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 252
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In case anybody is interested in making their own segmented panel end caps out of sheet metal, I put together a post on my blog. Enjoy!
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05-23-2013, 06:52 PM
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#60
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4 Rivet Member
1962 24' Tradewind
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 252
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