Introducing 1968 International Tradewind 24' Twin Restoration

[Venturewest]

Originally Posted by dbj216

You are right about bulkhead walls being on the flimsy side. You might consider a floor support for the heater and then use the wall just to keep the heater from falling forward under braking forces. I think with the open layout of your trailer the heater will heat the space nicely.

I made a "hanger" in the cabinet next to the fridge for the Globetrotter heater. You can hang it up and run it, or you can place it on the floor and run it.
David

What is your "hanger"? Is it a backer board with screws that the heater hangs on? Is that the quick connect valve I see below the heater? Even though my floor plan is open, once all the beds are pulled out there is almost no floor space. I could still have a "stow" area and then hang it at the destination. I was leery to have a quick connect and rubber hose in the trailer, but I am sure thousands of people do it without issue.

The stove top was definitely in rough shape from sitting under the leaking hood vent for years. I took it all apart and painted the base or pan of the stove. I am working on cleaning up the burners and burner tubes. Hopefully it will be back together tomorrow. It is too bad there aren't more after market parts available for these old appliances. They were built to last and it is a shame to have to dump them.

[ALUMINUMINUM]

1967 and 1968 share this door design. It's a great solution to hiding the bathroom door, but poorly engineered, and executed with cheapest hardware. Not really designed to function beyond the salesman's demonstration when new.

There's barely enough clearance inside the pocket for the door, consequently, any deformation of the wall, or just being out of level, binds the door. The bath side plywood is sealed with melamine, so any humidity causes the inside to expand and warp, bowing the wall so it narrows the pocket. There is a full length vertical stud inside the pocket that acts as the door stop and spacer. The whole wall relies on this stud as a stiffener, The adjoining closet's face frame helps some.

I'd sister the pocket's stile/jamb casing/longitudinal member, whatever you want to call it, with a matching 1x2 or thicker, of walnut. What's originally there is pretty flimsy. It won't look out of era, and you might conceal the propane line within a back-side dado. The plywood is strong enough to support the weight, but needs a stiffener to keep it from warping.

I fastened my 11 pound Cozy Cabin stove to the 1/4” ash plywood wall with stainless fender washers on the pocket side. The wall could be stiffened a bit with a heat-shield-deflector.

Hanging a 1/2” thinner door in the pocket works.


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f7/p...ce-128019.html


How many hanging clothes closets do you need? I eliminated that closet altogether. Replaced with appliance area counter-top. Consider jettisoning the closet door. Shelve and bin that area.

I tossed my bath closet door, cased the opening with ash, lined it with cedar, and made a hamper in the bottom. There's a closet rod and hooks. I was then advised that there would be no co-mingling of dirty clothes, so the hamper has a his/her divide.

[ALUMINUMINUM]

I re-read my post. I didn't “jettison” or “toss” any interior wood. Every bit was re-sawed or re-purposed. The closet doors were re-sized into parts of base cabinets.

When I see someone's pile of gutted interior, I remind myself that I had a pile like that too. That entire pile of “Before” wood is reconfigured back into the trailer. Nothing goes to waste around here. There's even a few bits of 1968GT interior as part of my “Outdoor Workbench”.

Also want to add how enjoyable the handful of current restoration threads are. Sharing what you can do, how you suffer and solve issues, is a valuable incentive and contribution.


You guys are great.
.

[dbj216]

Yes that is a quick disconnect propane fitting at the floor level. It also has a shut off valve there. The idea was to take the heater out of the trailer in the warmer months and use the space as a pantry.

I made a frame work that incorporates the four mounting "key holes" on the back of the heater. Essentially it is a backer board that the heater hangs on.
This frame has "hooks" on top that allows the heater to be hung up in the pantry cabinet for transport, and the dust cover still fits over the heater. The heater can be removed from the cabinet, placed on the floor and turned on. I hear ya about flex propane lines inside the trailer. However, most Airstreams have a rubber hose from the propane tanks to the copper piping under the trailer outside of the trailer.

It's my son's Globetrotter, and I try to do what he wants within reason.

David

[Venturewest]

Originally Posted by ALUMINUMINUM

I re-read my post. I didn't “jettison” or “toss” any interior wood. Every bit was re-sawed or re-purposed. The closet doors were re-sized into parts of base cabinets.

When I see someone's pile of gutted interior, I remind myself that I had a pile like that too. That entire pile of “Before” wood is reconfigured back into the trailer. Nothing goes to waste around here. There's even a few bits of 1968GT interior as part of my “Outdoor Workbench”.

Also want to add how enjoyable the handful of current restoration threads are. Sharing what you can do, how you suffer and solve issues, is a valuable incentive and contribution.


You guys are great.
.

I love the thought and skill you put into your interior. The fact that you took the time to re-purpose all of the original wood makes it all the better. Thanks again for the valuable contributions and ideas.

You are right about the poorly engineered bulk head design. I kept trying to straighten that Melamine wall and it would just warp back for the reasons you stated.

My original commitment to preserving the original floor plan has definitely complicated the renovation. Since I preserved the countertop, I have a set distance between the pocket door bulk head and the Central Control/ Fridge.
I am already nervous that something will have shifted a 1/4" If I ever take on another Airstream I will buy one that I can start from scratch. I am far enough along in the process that I am tied to this floor plan.

[Venturewest]

After much reflection, with the heater in hand, I have decided I just cannot make it work to my satisfaction. When the rear twin bed is pulled out to 48" there is very little room to squeeze around it to access the bathroom. I am afraid that someone will burn themselves on the heater grill as they try to pass by. There are some other complications as well.

I am a little bummed but after looking at the new suburban heaters I think it will be okay. At least it will be very easy to hide the new furnace. They only draw 2.7 Amps in the configuration I am looking at. That isn't bad, and very easily made up with one solar panel if I go that route. The Suburban NT20 is only 9" x 9" and should be easy to fit in somewhere. I don't think I will put it back where the original furnace was because I have already patched that skin and installed my water and electric inlet. I love the look of the Dickinson heaters, but I just don't have the floor space to put one anywhere without the danger of kids touching it. Budget, as always, is a big concern.

[dbj216]

The catalytic heaters do get hot to the touch like any other heater. Reverting back to a forced air furnace will likely work out. I built a "under the subfloor" plenum" and flex duct work in my old Trade Wind, see photo. That trailer had "cold air return" ducts under the subfloor. I just reversed the air flow in the trailer. Not the most efficient heating system, but the "oversized" Suburban furnace was up to the task. Heating was important to me living in Minnesota. Not so much here in Colorado.

I worry that I am not building in a forced air heater (Suburban 30k btu type) in my Overlander. I have the original spot for one, but the Overlander was built with a 2x10" duct work under the galley cabinet and bed frame back to the bath and down to the tank compartments. I did not provide space for a duct under the tub. I don't have room under the subfloor as I blocked it with the grey tank. I may regret that some day.

The intended use of the Overlander is "fair weather" camping in the Rockies, e.g. rallies, state parks and the like. I don't perceive 30 degree nights. I'm not good enough to pull the trailer on slick roads. Lack of forced air heating will diminish the value of the trailer some for me. If electricity is available, I can supplement warmth with 1200 watt electric heater.

As we have all experienced, if one plan doesn't work out, develop an alternative. It happens to me all the time. I attribute it to us building "prototypes" with sketchy plans. I imagine the designers at Airstream do the same thing as they develop the next model interior layout.

David

[Venturewest]

A little distraction: I found this little beauty and I am headed to pick it up in Wyoming tomorrow. I think it’s a 1958 Flying Cloud.

[Bubba L]

Congratulations, it seems to be in great shape. The interior layout looks to be identical to our 55 double all the way down to the three head lockers and their locations. When you get it home and time allows, let me know the serial number and we’ll add it to Capt Jones’ Flying Cloud Registry. Great find and good luck.

[Venturewest]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

Congratulations, it seems to be in great shape. The interior layout looks to be identical to our 55 double all the way down to the three head lockers and their locations. When you get it home and time allows, let me know the serial number and we’ll add it to Capt Jones’ Flying Cloud Registry. Great find and good luck.

Thanks Bubba! This is the serial number plate. It’s a California trailer. I am hoping it has spent its whole life in the west. Can you tell from the number of it is definitely a 1958?

Maybe it’s older?

My plan is to clean it up and re-sell it.

[rasmuw]

According to the Vintage Airstream site, #8260 is a 1957 model.

Is that a Spartan behind the Flying Cloud?

[Venturewest]

Originally Posted by rasmuw

According to the Vintage Airstream site, #8260 is a 1957 model.



Is that a Spartan behind the Flying Cloud?

Thanks. It is probably a ‘57 then. I haven’t seen the title yet so it might say 57 on the title.

That is a Spartan in the background. It has been gutted and it’s in pretty rough shape. It’s missing all the front glass. They want $1000 for it.

[dbj216]

Uh oh. Aluminum-itis appears to be taking its hold on you. Next thing you know you'll have aluminum campers parked all over the place waiting attention. Remember the 68 Trade Wind?

It is a worthwhile project for sure. I wonder if it is a "whale tail" body.

I think Airstream started production for the upcoming model year in the early fall. Automobiles used to do the same thing. Buy a 1958 new car in the fall of 1957. Sometimes manufactured date and model year date are two different things. There have been more than one title and registration error due to this non calendar year introduction of new models.

David

[TouringDan]

Yup. A very nice find. Good for you.

Dan

[Venturewest]

I thought I’d write a little update. I haven’t had a lot of time to devote to the Tradewind, but I have been knocking out some items.

I finally finished putting the range back together. It was really a project in itself. I spent hours with wire wheels, a dremel, Sand paper, and other assorted cleaners and polish. Bartenders Friend had become a friend of mine too. I soap tested everything and also tested the stove. I am not happy with the condition of the chrome stove cover, so I may see if I can find someone with one in better condition. It can be installed at a later time.

One last before pic to remind myself of the dismal condition the stove started in.

[Venturewest]

The Boondocker Power Center is now installed. I opted to install it inside a closet so it will be easily accessible but also hidden. I built a simple frame. I will build a removable cover that will serve as the bottom shelf/ floor of the closet.

I am only about 30 minutes from having the furnace installed. I had to remove the kitchen cabinet so I could drill the intake and exhaust holes in the interior skin. I also installed mounting blocks to support the rear of the furnace at the ripper height.

[Venturewest]

I was able to tackle the three gaucho base cabinets. The two front gauchos form the dinette. The longer gaucho spans the street side of the camper, from the door back.

All three cabinets had some dry rotted wood and decaying plywood. The cabinets are stapled and screwed together from factory. I was able to carefully separate the bad wood from the salvageable wood. I used a dremel, scrapers, chisels, pry bars and anything else I could think of.

All rotten wood was replaced. The cherry face frames all had to be rebuilt with some replacement cherry 1x.

I sanded everything and applied shellac to all surfaces, even the bottom sides of the cabinets. I like working with shellac because it dries within a minutes, it was used extensively on vintage campers, and it blocks effectively blocks odors.

The cherry gave frames will be finished with the same danish oil that I am using everywhere else. It is a challenge to get the new cherry to match the old cherry.

Here are some before, process, and after photos.

[Venturewest]

Refrigerator Woes:
I tested my old fridge on gas and it held a flame and cooled. I thought I was home free. I tracked down the electric heating element and paid the hefty sum of $80. My elation turned to consternation when removed the sheet metal and insulation around the flue. The flue has completely rusted away and the insulation was basically holding the rust in place.

I returned the element and am still looking for a fridge.

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by Venturewest

I thought I’d write a little update. I haven’t had a lot of time to devote to the Tradewind, but I have been knocking out some items.

I finally finished putting the range back together. It was really a project in itself. I spent hours with wire wheels, a dremel, Sand paper, and other assorted cleaners and polish. Bartenders Friend had become a friend of mine too. I soap tested everything and also tested the stove. I am not happy with the condition of the chrome stove cover, so I may see if I can find someone with one in better condition. It can be installed at a later time. Attachment 333566Attachment 333567Attachment 333568

One last before pic to remind myself of the dismal condition the stove started in. Attachment 333569

Compared to the shape of our cooktop, yours looks great. We had ours re-chromed from a place in San Antonio. When we contacted them, they asked we text them pictures and description of each item we wanted a price to have chromed. They priced items from the pictures. The guy’s shop is in Dallas and he picks up all the items from SA once a week. They did a great job on our stuff. The name of the place is Southwest Chrome Plating @ 210-658-8087. Thought this may be an option to consider. Things are looking good.

[dbj216]

My 75 Overlander drop in 4 burner cooktop (no oven underneath) was badly pitted and rusted. The chrome plating was flaking off. I gave up on it rather quickly. I'll just buy a non vintage modern one. Good enough for us.

Good work on all that old cabinetry. They look very solid now. Your Trade Wind layout is much different than my 66 Trade Wind was.

My old fridge was shot too. Again, I took the easy way out an simply bought a replacement. I like the electronic ignition as I'm too lazy to light a pilot light in the wind and rain.

Keep up the good work.

David