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Old 03-30-2018, 06:52 PM   #57
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Those central control panels in the sixties trailers were neat. Aluminuminum's WIFCO unit is even neater. Me, I just kept with the basic stuff needed. A modern converter, and a new breaker box with new breakers. That is adequate for our needs.

David
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Old 04-01-2018, 09:23 AM   #58
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Here are a few little progress pics.
Dryfitting the rear subfloor and applying penetrating epoxy sealer.Click image for larger version

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I was ready in install the subfloor but I think I am going to replace the valve in the black tank first. I think I am going to pressure wash the tank at the car wash to remove any remaining funk.

I am also playing with bathroom paint colors. This Krylon fusion pewter gray is a nice match for the gray stripes on the cabinets. I am going to do the sink and tub in gloss white. I am deciding on Por 15 2k, Tile
Doc or similar, 2 part epoxy. I will spray whatever I use.

Here is my cabinet before pic and a test section of krylon pewter next to the cabinet material. Click image for larger version

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Having a wonderful family day but didn't want you guys to think I gave up on my project. Memorial Day deadline!
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Old 04-01-2018, 06:05 PM   #59
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I need a good paint selection for the plastics in my Overlander bathroom. They have been painted once. I think I read on these Forums about a product called "Mr. Tubby" or something like that. The paint needs to resist normal bathroom cleaners. I'm interested on what paint you decide on.

David
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Old 04-01-2018, 09:57 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
I need a good paint selection for the plastics in my Overlander bathroom. They have been painted once. I think I read on these Forums about a product called "Mr. Tubby" or something like that. The paint needs to resist normal bathroom cleaners. I'm interested on what paint you decide on.

David
The POR15 2K Urethane seems incredibly durable as well as attractive. They sell it at VTS as well. I will only be using it on my tub and sink, so maybe I would have enough to share if you decide you like my results. I will be shooting it with a harbor freight spray gun. I will be painting my tub inside the Airstream since I don't have a way to get the thing out the door. I will be creating a big ol' plastic spray booth in there. Thank goodness for good respirators.

I just looked up the Mr. Tubby and it seems to be available oversees. Tile Doc can be purchased at Sherwin Williams. It can also be tinted to a degree. It is a 2 part epoxy and also very tough. I am still contemplating that one.

I think the Krylon Fusion will be fine for the plastic cabinets. There are plenty of testimonials on this forum. Some have even used it with success on the tub and sink. I would rather go with a 2 part product on those areas.
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Old 04-02-2018, 08:27 AM   #61
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Thanks for the PM.


I agree that the grey looks good with the melamine's stripes.

I was skeptical about Fusion paint. I sprayed some silver on an un-prepped, previously painted steel. area, came back 24hrs later and gave it the fingernail scratch test, and it came off.. Ha! I was right. Two weeks later, I tried to scratch the same spot, and it was like trying to scratch off stainless steel. It was amazingly tough. Ha! I was wrong. Concluded that it needs a long cure time.

I tried the satin black Fusion to redress the oxidized plastic front bumper cover on my Dodge instead of the professional plastic bumper paint made by SEM.. An adhesion promoter, and scotchbrite to prep. It looks like new after a salty Michigan Winter. Very impressed so far.

I used a two part alkyd epoxy tub kit on my sink. Maybe called "Tough as Tile"?? Body shop tinted it to the original pinkish cream.
Certainly spray it if you can. I'm OK with a brush. I used a 1” Purdy (best brushes in the world) synthetic fiber brush. Two coats as directed on box.

Yes, as the directions indicate, you can store the brush and mixed epoxy in the freezer overnight for the second coat. Xylol will clean the brush. If you can find a run or sag, I'll sign my GT's title over to you. I'd spray the tub because it's a big area and the epoxy “open time” might close before finishing with a brush.

.
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Old 04-02-2018, 01:09 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by ALUMINUMINUM View Post
Thanks for the PM.


I agree that the grey looks good with the melamine's stripes.

I was skeptical about Fusion paint. I sprayed some silver on an un-prepped, previously painted steel. area, came back 24hrs later and gave it the fingernail scratch test, and it came off.. Ha! I was right. Two weeks later, I tried to scratch the same spot, and it was like trying to scratch off stainless steel. It was amazingly tough. Ha! I was wrong. Concluded that it needs a long cure time.

I tried the satin black Fusion to redress the oxidized plastic front bumper cover on my Dodge instead of the professional plastic bumper paint made by SEM.. An adhesion promoter, and scotchbrite to prep. It looks like new after a salty Michigan Winter. Very impressed so far.

I used a two part alkyd epoxy tub kit on my sink. Maybe called "Tough as Tile"?? Body shop tinted it to the original pinkish cream.
Certainly spray it if you can. I'm OK with a brush. I used a 1” Purdy (best brushes in the world) synthetic fiber brush. Two coats as directed on box.

Yes, as the directions indicate, you can store the brush and mixed epoxy in the freezer overnight for the second coat. Xylol will clean the brush. If you can find a run or sag, I'll sign my GT's title over to you. I'd spray the tub because it's a big area and the epoxy “open time” might close before finishing with a brush.

.
That turned out really well. I hope to achieve the same results soon.
Thanks.
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Old 04-02-2018, 06:46 PM   #63
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Thanks VentureWest. I did a bit of paint research also and think the two part epoxy paints are my best bet, although spendy. I am not an auto body tech and have little experience spray painting parts, especially with epoxy paints. It takes some practice a bit like sweating copper joints or welding does.

I have six plastic parts to paint including the tub. Keep us up to date on your paint selection and application process.

David
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Old 04-02-2018, 07:51 PM   #64
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/aogx7qke00..._2963.jpg?dl=0
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Old 04-03-2018, 10:54 AM   #65
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Yup, Purdy brushes are flat out the best for a smooth coat of paint or varnish. The only thing better for varnish is a “Badger Bristle” handmade brush. They are unobtainable nowadays, and were hand made specifically for oil base varnish. Could get a finish that looked like glass. My dad used them for brightwork (varnished teak) on several boats he captained. Amazing old-time technique and high skill to pull it off. Don’t make tools like that any more.
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Old 04-29-2018, 08:38 PM   #66
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Water Heater

I have made a little progress lately. The interior skins are buttoned up. I floated the sub floor with Bondo and will prime in the morning.

Today I installed the new Atwood 6 gallon water heater, and the aluminum patch that took up the gap in the skin created by downsizing the WH. I attached a few photos. It got too late to take a photo with the Tempro cleaned up.

This week I need to get the converter ordered and installed. I hope I can start reinstalling interior in a week or little more.

I found a reasonable upholsterer who can start the cushions in 2 weeks. I am ordering new axles from a local trailer shop. I will let them install, as the price was pretty reasonable. Click image for larger version

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Old 04-30-2018, 06:22 AM   #67
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Venturewest

The new water heater and patch looks great.

Dan
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Old 04-30-2018, 06:43 PM   #68
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Hi VentureWest: Another item on your project list completed. Well done.

I too downsized from the old, heavy 10 gallon water heater to the Atwood standard. I test fired mine several weeks ago and it functioned as expected. I have to finish my plumbing for I can heat any water though.

David
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Old 05-01-2018, 06:39 AM   #69
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Thanks Dan and David. Here is a better photo of the wh, cleaned up a little. I want to figure out a way to use some of the original cover to rivet a facade into the new cover, in addition to painting it silver.

The trailer looks so much more finished with primed floors. Click image for larger version

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Old 05-01-2018, 05:56 PM   #70
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I just cut a piece of Alclad and riveted it to the white water heater cover that I had painted both sides "chrome". At least the result was other than a while water heater cover.

David
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