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Old 03-15-2018, 08:08 AM   #15
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1968 24' Tradewind
parker , Colorado
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A little update.

I have made a little progress. I have re-glazed the lower rectangular windows which all leaked badly. I have cut out all areas of rotten plywood. I have treated the frame with rust converter and will put a coat of enamel over that. I am not too concerned with rust treatment.

Here are a few pics. Isn't that walnut veneer beautiful? This was the interior side of a wall so it hasn't faded. I can't wait to finish all that wood.

The original foam insulation has done such a great job of protecting the frame and plywood that I tried to keep it in place anywhere I can.

A couple of little observations about the subfloor: My plywood extends well beyond the ends of the outriggers. The outriggers do NOT have bolts to the shell. I have seen so many other airstream threads in which the elevator bolts pass through the aluminum channel and the plywood. On my Tradewind the plywood is bolted to the frame, and separately the plywood is bolted to the the channel.

By the end of this weekend I plan to have the inner wheel wells repaired and the new plywood installed.

I am going to have some questions soon but for now I will post a few photos. Click image for larger version

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Old 03-15-2018, 06:21 PM   #16
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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That walnut veneer is nice. I think that was one of the upgrades with the International trim package. Airstream has made nicer interiors as an upgrade for years and years. Our Limited has the hickory cabinetry that we really enjoy. It has held up very well through the years. My Overlander International has what looks like an light oak veneer. Some 75 trailers had laminated plastic over plywood which didn't hold up too well from my observations. But this light oak veneer had done very well in my view.

Your pictures show some major work going on. Keep us updated.

David
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Old 03-16-2018, 06:15 AM   #17
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1968 24' Tradewind
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Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
That walnut veneer is nice. I think that was one of the upgrades with the International trim package. Airstream has made nicer interiors as an upgrade for years and years. Our Limited has the hickory cabinetry that we really enjoy. It has held up very well through the years. My Overlander International has what looks like an light oak veneer. Some 75 trailers had laminated plastic over plywood which didn't hold up too well from my observations. But this light oak veneer had done very well in my view.

Your pictures show some major work going on. Keep us updated.

David
I am down in Parker. I would love to see your Overlander project some time.

I have already peeled back more layers than I have intended to on this Tradewind, but It feels good to know it will have good bones when it is finished. I found out my nephew is going to be helping me all next week while he is on spring break. That should give me a good boost. I might even see if he is any good at polishing!

Do you happen to own a buck rivet gun? I have about 6 broken rivets that attach the skin to the channel. I am fine using Olympic rivets, but I wasn't sure if the strength of the Olympic rivets would be adequate there.
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Old 03-16-2018, 06:08 PM   #18
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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Hi Venturewest: It would be fun to meet up and share vintage Airstream project experiences. I'm an hour away from Parker and 15 minutes from Conifer. You would be welcome here. Let's use Air Forums private messaging to set something up.

I don't have a pneumatic rivet gun or bucking bar. I wish I did. But there are very few times when I needed it our could use it without a lot of disassembly. And it's a two person job that requires some experience to know how long to hammer the rivet so it isn't too tight. I am no fan of Olympic rivets. But I have certainly used them.

I'll polish my Overlander next winter. It needs it. It has been stripped at some point along the way. Polishing is a finishing operation. I'm a long ways from finished.

David
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Old 03-23-2018, 09:59 AM   #19
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1968 24' Tradewind
parker , Colorado
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Sub floor progress.

I finally got my new plywood sub floor spliced in. I used a 19/32 ACX plywood from Home Depot. I think it was about $40 per sheet.

I feel a lot better about the attachment of the shell to the floor to the frame now.

I also did some repairing of the wheel wells. I cut out the holes, sanded all rust. I treated with Rustoleum galvaninized coating. I used additional polymer sealer and riveted on new galvanized sheet metal. I will be doing additional sealing.

I have seen many threads where people are so obsessed over the elevator attachment method. My airstream didn't have any elevator bolts that pass through the shell, floor, and outriggers. There are some that attach the floor to the frame, and others that attach the aluminum channel to sub floor. I replaced plywood on both sides of my trailer, front of the wheel wells. What I found is that there are very few rivets attaching the skin to the channel. Several of these had pulled out of the then channel. I feel there are too few elevator bolts that attach the channel to the skin. As the skin flexes in and out with the wind I think it puts a lot of sheer stress on the elevator bolts in the edge of the plywood. This seems to start to oblong the holes in the plywood. Any kind of rot really increases this and the slots reach the edge of the plywood. The shell can now flex in and out with a lot of play. That puts a lot of lateral stress on adjacent rivets holding the channel. The rivets pull through and now the shell is not longer attached to the floor at all in those areas. That is how two of my trailers have been now.

I feel it is better to have more fasteners connecting the channel to the plywood. I also feel it would be beneficial to increase the number of rivets connecting channel to skin. I used stainless lag bolts with washers and I feel I will never have an issue with channel pulling out from the plywood again.

Today I am going to replace 3 roof vents, at least one vent pipe that had pulled out of the ceiling. I would like to drop the black tank enclosure as well to see what I am dealing with back there. Click image for larger version

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Old 03-23-2018, 12:01 PM   #20
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1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
Kansas City , Kansas
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I have the same trailer ('68 twin layout) but it is not the international trim line and was in much worse shape. Nice find and work.
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Old 03-23-2018, 01:23 PM   #21
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I have the same trailer ('68 twin layout) but it is not the international trim line and was in much worse shape. Nice find and work.
Atomic, That's a very nice restoration. That looks like it has been a lot of work, but I am sure it is very rewarding. What is your plan for the interior? Are you putting the original back in?
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Old 03-23-2018, 04:03 PM   #22
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A lot of work, indeed, but it's fun work. I'll update my renovation thread with the plans for the interior layout. Keep up the good work.
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Old 03-23-2018, 08:03 PM   #23
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1968 24' Tradewind
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Bathroom is coming out.

It felt so good to get the floor repair finished that I decided to do some more demolition. After a lot of deliberation today I decided to remove the bathroom. I want better access to the charger/ converter, the plumbing and the back floor. This will also make it easier to paint the cabinets and tub.

It didn't take very long to remove. I hope it goes back 1/10th as easily.

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Old 03-24-2018, 10:08 AM   #24
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1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
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How is the subfloor near the battery?Many trailer need this area replaced. If applicable, it would be a good time to do so with the bath out. You might want to consider flashing the area between the shell and the bumper trunk to prevent water from damaging the floor below the rear hatch.
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Old 03-24-2018, 11:56 AM   #25
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1968 24' Tradewind
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How is the subfloor near the battery?Many trailer need this area replaced. If applicable, it would be a good time to do so with the bath out. You might want to consider flashing the area between the shell and the bumper trunk to prevent water from damaging the floor below the rear hatch.
Hi Atomic,
I have discovered rot on each side of the back . I am going to replace the back subfloor and look at a flashing solution.

I have everything out of the way and I am trying to get the lower skins off. Is it possible to remove lower skins without removing the end cap? I definitely don't want to remove the end cap.

Any chance I could give you a quick call since your trailer is identical?
Thanks,
Ron
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Old 03-24-2018, 12:05 PM   #26
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1968 24' Tradewind
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You always find more.

The bathroom is basically gutted now. I removed the freshwater pipes, most of the sewer pipes and the toilet flange. I am trying to figure out how to remove the lower skins without removing the cap. I will cut a horizontal seam before I will take the cap out.

I found floor rot along the back and corners so I am going to repair that now.
I would like to get most of that done today. I need these skins out!Click image for larger version

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Old 03-24-2018, 04:17 PM   #27
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I don't see in the picture where the floor rot is.. Looks like you're ready to get the tank out of your way. That'll help.

I was able to access behind the interior skins by removing skin rivets along the floor and access door, then pulling it away enough to reach a couple channel bolts.
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Old 03-24-2018, 07:53 PM   #28
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Aluminuminum: I did the same thing. I didn't remove the skins, I just pried them out a bit for access to the rear body bolts and body hold down plate.

VentureWest: I'd drill out some pop rivets and see how much you can see. You will likely be dropping the belly pan, and that will give you much more access to the bath floor.

David'
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