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Old 02-13-2019, 06:24 PM   #155
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1968 24' Tradewind
parker , Colorado
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I thought Iíd write a little update. I havenít had a lot of time to devote to the Tradewind, but I have been knocking out some items.

I finally finished putting the range back together. It was really a project in itself. I spent hours with wire wheels, a dremel, Sand paper, and other assorted cleaners and polish. Bartenders Friend had become a friend of mine too. I soap tested everything and also tested the stove. I am not happy with the condition of the chrome stove cover, so I may see if I can find someone with one in better condition. It can be installed at a later time. Click image for larger version

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One last before pic to remind myself of the dismal condition the stove started in. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-13-2019, 06:34 PM   #156
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1968 24' Tradewind
parker , Colorado
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The Boondocker Power Center is now installed. I opted to install it inside a closet so it will be easily accessible but also hidden. I built a simple frame. I will build a removable cover that will serve as the bottom shelf/ floor of the closet. Click image for larger version

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I am only about 30 minutes from having the furnace installed. I had to remove the kitchen cabinet so I could drill the intake and exhaust holes in the interior skin. I also installed mounting blocks to support the rear of the furnace at the ripper height. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-13-2019, 06:49 PM   #157
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1968 24' Tradewind
parker , Colorado
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I was able to tackle the three gaucho base cabinets. The two front gauchos form the dinette. The longer gaucho spans the street side of the camper, from the door back.

All three cabinets had some dry rotted wood and decaying plywood. The cabinets are stapled and screwed together from factory. I was able to carefully separate the bad wood from the salvageable wood. I used a dremel, scrapers, chisels, pry bars and anything else I could think of.

All rotten wood was replaced. The cherry face frames all had to be rebuilt with some replacement cherry 1x.

I sanded everything and applied shellac to all surfaces, even the bottom sides of the cabinets. I like working with shellac because it dries within a minutes, it was used extensively on vintage campers, and it blocks effectively blocks odors.

The cherry gave frames will be finished with the same danish oil that I am using everywhere else. It is a challenge to get the new cherry to match the old cherry.

Here are some before, process, and after photos.

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Old 02-13-2019, 06:56 PM   #158
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1968 24' Tradewind
parker , Colorado
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Refrigerator Woes:
I tested my old fridge on gas and it held a flame and cooled. I thought I was home free. I tracked down the electric heating element and paid the hefty sum of $80. My elation turned to consternation when removed the sheet metal and insulation around the flue. The flue has completely rusted away and the insulation was basically holding the rust in place.

I returned the element and am still looking for a fridge.

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Old 02-13-2019, 07:16 PM   #159
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Venturewest View Post
I thought Iíd write a little update. I havenít had a lot of time to devote to the Tradewind, but I have been knocking out some items.

I finally finished putting the range back together. It was really a project in itself. I spent hours with wire wheels, a dremel, Sand paper, and other assorted cleaners and polish. Bartenders Friend had become a friend of mine too. I soap tested everything and also tested the stove. I am not happy with the condition of the chrome stove cover, so I may see if I can find someone with one in better condition. It can be installed at a later time. Attachment 333566Attachment 333567Attachment 333568

One last before pic to remind myself of the dismal condition the stove started in. Attachment 333569
Compared to the shape of our cooktop, yours looks great. We had ours re-chromed from a place in San Antonio. When we contacted them, they asked we text them pictures and description of each item we wanted a price to have chromed. They priced items from the pictures. The guyís shop is in Dallas and he picks up all the items from SA once a week. They did a great job on our stuff. The name of the place is Southwest Chrome Plating @ 210-658-8087. Thought this may be an option to consider. Things are looking good.
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Old 02-14-2019, 07:08 PM   #160
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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My 75 Overlander drop in 4 burner cooktop (no oven underneath) was badly pitted and rusted. The chrome plating was flaking off. I gave up on it rather quickly. I'll just buy a non vintage modern one. Good enough for us.

Good work on all that old cabinetry. They look very solid now. Your Trade Wind layout is much different than my 66 Trade Wind was.

My old fridge was shot too. Again, I took the easy way out an simply bought a replacement. I like the electronic ignition as I'm too lazy to light a pilot light in the wind and rain.

Keep up the good work.

David
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Old 04-29-2019, 05:58 AM   #161
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1968 24' Tradewind
parker , Colorado
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Plumbing complete. No leaks.
The pump is a little loud, I need to work on muffling the sound.

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Looking for shower valve recommendations that will fit the existing holes.
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Old 04-29-2019, 08:11 PM   #162
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Hi there Venturewest: Like to see water running out of the faucets and not the floor. I had a little of both I'm afraid. Water pump noise can be caused by the pump being screwed too tight to the floor. Mine is on rubber pads and I didn't squish them down very hard at all. I also looped flex hose for both the inlet and the outlet as SurFlo instructed. You might want to give that addition a try. Even at that, I can certainly hear the pump run even with my bad hearing.

I just went to a big box store and started looking for shower valves that might fit. I used a plywood backer for the actual mounting of the brass valve, and hit it penetrate the plastic. It was important the decorative plastic fit the plastic and it took a while to find one that would. Here is a photo of the Kohler valve in my Overlander bath.

I'm sure you like the snow we are getting.

David
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Old 04-29-2019, 08:43 PM   #163
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1968 24' Tradewind
parker , Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Hi there Venturewest: Like to see water running out of the faucets and not the floor. I had a little of both I'm afraid. Water pump noise can be caused by the pump being screwed too tight to the floor. Mine is on rubber pads and I didn't squish them down very hard at all. I also looped flex hose for both the inlet and the outlet as SurFlo instructed. You might want to give that addition a try. Even at that, I can certainly hear the pump run even with my bad hearing.

I just went to a big box store and started looking for shower valves that might fit. I used a plywood backer for the actual mounting of the brass valve, and hit it penetrate the plastic. It was important the decorative plastic fit the plastic and it took a while to find one that would. Here is a photo of the Kohler valve in my Overlander bath.

I'm sure you like the snow we are getting.

David
Hi David,

I guess I should have read the Shurflo instructions! That would have saved some hassle figuring out how to adapt by PEX to the 1/2" barb fittings. That is also a good tip about not screwing the pump down tight. I will back my screws off to see if the helps.

That shower trim and valve looks really nice. Did you have to enlarge the hole in the fiberglass?

I wasn't quite prepared for the snow. I need to run a few gas lines and I can fire up that new furnace.
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Old 04-30-2019, 07:35 PM   #164
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Your trailer was built with fiberglass bath parts. My trailer was built with I think thermoformed ABS plastic parts. Your bath sink may be that way. My former Trade Wind was that way. I considered the plastic a "decorative" part, kinda like a tile shower wall in a house. The shower valve is not hung from that, it is hung on roughed in wood. My new shower valve came with long screws that did pass through the plastic. The front facia and valve handle thread onto the shower valve and are then clamped tight to the plastic.

Your fiberglass part may be stout enough to support a heavy shower valve and associated plumbing. You'll have to judge that. Here is a photo of the back of the shower valve as installed.

I won't make progress on the Overlander this next 10 days. We're taking an Airstream trip to Utah for a week or so. It will be great to get out on the road and do some exploring. We're taking the wife's Limited as usual.

David
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