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Old 12-06-2017, 05:50 AM   #29
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1967 22' Safari
1966 24' Tradewind
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Axle angle

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Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
I hear you on the POR-15 application. I don't plan on using the stuff again just because I don't have the equipment to apply it. The directions were fussy on temperature, humidity, and timing. I laid on my back with a brush and a full Tyvek suit. The stuff has the viscosity of water. Drip, drip, drip. I brushed on my back for all of 6 hours for two coats. The product stops rust and I get that. But maybe I'll use just a top coat next time and hope for the best. I read some folks use a common hand pump type garden sprayer with reasonable coverage results. But I ain't gonna brush it on again.

I also wire brushed my frame with a hand held angle grinder. Yuk. Sandblasting is much better.

Do you have the specs on the starting angle of your new axles? I think the max starting angle is 32 degrees for a DuraTorq axle. Airstream normal was 22 degrees way back when. I ask as I have to make that axle spec decision on my Overlander.

David
I went back to the paperwork after not seeing the angle on the labels. (Here I thought I was so smart, Ha) It's marked 22.5 down.
Added a photo to show that to mount the axle you had to line up the back hole and drill a new one for the front.

Wish I had thought about the garden sprayer. I have a power sprayer but was afraid of wasting the paint and spending so much time masking. I used a complete tyvek suit that should have had built in gloves as it left my wrists exposed too. Party tomorrow, scrubbing tonight.

I've now turned the Time Machine 2 over to Dave. She's safely in his garage. But it was a tight fit. Having the new axles on meant she was still too tall to get through the door. So Dave had these handy dandy steel wheels made.

Oh, and the remaining part of the floor came out in one piece. Yahoo!
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Old 12-06-2017, 06:50 AM   #30
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg , Texas
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Great idea with the steel wheels. Wish I had thought of that. We had the same problem with our 55 in the barn. Had old tires on the new axle and had to let half the air out of the tires to get it past the barn doors. As long as I don’t add the top vent assemblies back on top before I take it out in spring, I should be OK. I hope. Your project is looking great. Bubba
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Old 12-20-2017, 05:17 PM   #31
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1966 24' Tradewind
Columbus , Ohio
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Wheel wells and floor

Well, after considering and laying out new floor plans we're going right back to the Safari floor plan. Nothing else seemed to be as clean, open or easy to do. Mainly because of tank placement.

Speaking of which, the tanks are in. Since the Safari interior was rearranged we had a fresh water tank left over. It's 30 gallons so we're using it as the grey tank for this one. It sits a little below the rails but with the new axles we have lots more clearance so it doesn't look like a problem.
I'd like to add some sensors for these tanks so if anyone has a suggestion on which to buy we'd love to know what you recommend.

And the floor in front is in. Marine grade plywood covered with the marine 2 part epoxy. This plywood sat so long waiting for the axles i thought it was dry enough to cover all sides. It's not bolted down yet, but ready once we get the wheel wells in. Has reflectix on the bottom even though I'm not sure how well that works based on the Safari.

The original wheel wells are corroded but salvageable. Dave got some new galvanized to strengthen up the attachments. Not sure why I don't have that photo but I'll get one.

Next up is the panel and door re-installation. Plus lots of patches. Which might end up being her name. Patches? Ha!

I have to go back to working on our house for a couple of weeks so progress will be slow until after Jan 2.
Happy holidays and safe travels to everyone.
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Old 12-20-2017, 06:19 PM   #32
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On the tank monitoring system, we used SeeLevel on both our trailers. There are distance requirements from any structure during installation but it is a simple system. On the 55, we installed the tanks, hooked up the tank monitors to temporary power and tested the system for accuracy before the subfloor was installed. Good luck and Happy Holidays. Bubba
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Old 12-20-2017, 06:48 PM   #33
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1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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I too recommend Garret SeeLevel tank level monitor system. It is about $200 for battery voltage, fresh, gray and black tanks. It also does LP tanks but I didn't use that feature. The monitor is small and pretty easy to install. There is a "printed flex circuit" that is stuck to the deep side of the tank. I found mine very accurate and reliable in my 66 Trade Wind.

I will use SeeLevel on my Overlander project.

David
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Old 12-23-2017, 06:29 AM   #34
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1967 22' Safari
1966 24' Tradewind
Columbus , Ohio
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tanks

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Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
I too recommend Garret SeeLevel tank level monitor system. It is about $200 for battery voltage, fresh, gray and black tanks. It also does LP tanks but I didn't use that feature. The monitor is small and pretty easy to install. There is a "printed flex circuit" that is stuck to the deep side of the tank. I found mine very accurate and reliable in my 66 Trade Wind.

I will use SeeLevel on my Overlander project.

David
It's in my amazon shopping cart. Thanks.
What tanks are you using? I'm not familiar with that shape.
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Old 12-23-2017, 06:10 PM   #35
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Hi mtmanor: I used this configuration of tank because I could easily hang them on angle irons bolted to the frame rails. I remodeled the Trade Wind bath and moved the toilet forward. This tank was only 17" wide which fit in the frame bay. It is 9" deep which allowed me to locate the drain manifold and slide valves on the curb side of the trailer. I used the same tank for the gray water. The tanks are about 25 gallons.

I purchased the tanks from Inca Plastics in California. They have an on line catalog that allows us to study the different tanks they have and find one that suits our trailer. So that's what I did.

David
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Old 02-01-2018, 06:55 PM   #36
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1967 22' Safari
1966 24' Tradewind
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Roof patch?

We're making progress again. The floor is in which was more of a challenge this time. All the holes lined up from front to back but the back street side was a little waved. So we had to adjust the holes a little. But it's done and looks correct.

Now we're on to the patches. Including replacing the curb side panel behind the door. The panel went in perfectly. Patches for old antennas, the refrigerator and the original heater vent went in perfectly too. I was really happy with the patch/replacement that fixed the spot where the hatch latches were butchered in.

Which brings us to the roof. The old air conditioner must have started leaking. So there must be a pound of silicone up there along with corrosion, holes and pinholes.
So, do we try to pry off the silicone and patch over? Or, do we cut out the compromised area and replace with a new panel?
A new panel would mean a seam in the roof.
Going over the old means we'd have a double layer right in the center of the roof.

So, what should we do?
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Old 02-01-2018, 08:26 PM   #37
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Hi Mtmanor: I favor removing the silicone since I don't have to do it (ugh what a job), clean up the aluminum and make a patch over the opening. When you say patch I assume a new AC ain't going up there. You can seal the seams and use bucked rivets.

Your TV antennae patch looks just like mine. Did you get yours a VTS?

David
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Old 02-02-2018, 06:28 AM   #38
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1967 22' Safari
1966 24' Tradewind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Hi Mtmanor: I favor removing the silicone since I don't have to do it (ugh what a job), clean up the aluminum and make a patch over the opening. When you say patch I assume a new AC ain't going up there. You can seal the seams and use bucked rivets.

Your TV antennae patch looks just like mine. Did you get yours a VTS?

David
Dave has a friend with a metal shop. He can punch out the smaller rounds easily. And round off the bigger pieces so they're cleaner. He also made us the custom ss shower pan. I'll get a photo. He's an invaluable resource. It's good to know people.

Just to be clear, the patch where the old a/c went has to be about 3' x 4'. The top is a mess with pitting and holes in at least a 2' x 3' area.
If we drill out the side seam rivets and cut out the 2' x 3' area we'll have enough overhang to secure and seal the heck out of the new seam. It still makes me nervous.

I think we'll move the a/c to the vent just forward of the old location so it won't be subject to flexing? Ugh. I have to make a decision today to not hold Dave up.
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Old 02-02-2018, 06:47 PM   #39
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Gee, I cut my antennae round patch with a pair of tin snips. Not near as nice as yours.

I've read where some folks add bracing around the AC 14x14 roof hole, similar to what might be around the vent hole. You guys might be able to rivet some bracing under that AC to keep it in place when you hit a big pot hole in the road. It would need to conform to the arc of the roof panel. Since you have to patch this section of rotted roof, maybe the AC bracing would be easier. You might not want to loose a roof vent. Future fantastic fan position?

David
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Old 02-03-2018, 09:13 AM   #40
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1966 24' Tradewind
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Roof Patch

David, that's exactly why I thought about moving the a/c forward. There's already more bracing around the vent area.
I already have the fantastic fans ready to go in so I'd be sort of out that money. There's still the forward solar dome that also opens. And having a fan in the back vent would move some air.

The roof was ready to install by the time I got done with work. Cleco'd in but had to have other holes drilled through from the top. Lots and lots of trempro was used as the over hangs are at least 3"-4".
After getting it bucked in I think we need to add another brace around the seam to the back. Next week as Dave can't work weekends.
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Old 02-03-2018, 05:56 PM   #41
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You were wise to patch that piece of bad roofing. I mean it was really bad. I think a little bracing on the rear of the patch would stabilize the seams. Someone (two) has quite a few rivets to shoot.

David
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Old 03-29-2018, 08:46 AM   #42
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Reinforcements, wiring, insulation, walls

I haven't posted for so long I went back and re-read my thread. Ha! I was so far off base when I thought it was in good shape. Live and learn.

So, the bucking got finished. Then we went back over all the rivets on the roof with a fine toothed comb and resealed or replaced where needed.

Since the original a/c hole was patched and there are 3 existing holes in the roof we decided to move the a/c to the middle one. I'm losing a fantastic fan but Dave took the original fan apart and added it to the center of the solar dome vent. Another "ahaa" moment. The solar dome seemed odd anyway. There was no way to move air. We'll see if this works.

Then we went back over the floor plan. Since I had talked about making it a side bath at the beginning we are now so confused. So we took out the tape measure and painters tape and placed outlines on the floor. It helped a lot.

I decided to go with a Dickinson propane fireplace as I really hated the the forced air furnace in the Safari. Found it on sale at binnacle.com
It'll be mounted on the closet wall facing forward. While the skins were off we installed the chimney stack. Wish I had found something to make it stay straight. But, it happened too fast to research.

Used a layer of prodex and then some solid foam on the straight walls. Prodex and Roxul on the end caps and ceiling.

After the prodex was in Dave ran the wiring. Again, it was hard to remember where everything is going. But, the a/c wiring and drain kit are in. It's wired for solar for the future. Brakes and exterior wiring is complete.

Then the front cap went in. YAY.
Booo. We forgot how much room the shelf across the front takes up. I had taken it out on the Safari. Which was no easy task and not finished exactly symmetrical. So, we're rethinking the dinette and bed position. Again.
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