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Old 05-26-2004, 08:40 PM   #1
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jgouras's Avatar
Profile:  1966 24' Tradewind
snohomish , Washington
Posts: 35

help with electrical system on '66 tradewind

we just got our tradewind and have found some of the electrical systems missing. in fact behind the fridge there are 6 wires coming out of the wall (romex) that have been cut. my manual says a "utility panel" belongs there. does anyone know or have pictures of what this looks like or controls, any help would be greatful.

thanks
jon

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Old 05-27-2004, 06:53 AM   #2
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TomW's Avatar
Profile:  1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville , Alabama
Posts: 2,622

Quote:
Originally Posted by jgouras
we just got our tradewind and have found some of the electrical systems missing. in fact behind the fridge there are 6 wires coming out of the wall (romex) that have been cut. my manual says a "utility panel" belongs there...
Jon,
The utility panel in your Tradewind is probably very similar to what is in my '67 Overlander. In fact, the present condition of your wiring matches mine, except I personally disconnected everything for my restoration effort.

Let's see what I can pull from memory: At least one of the "wires", i.e. two insulated conductors in plastic sheathing, should have copper conductors. The sheathing may be black in color. This is the 12 volt dc service. On mine, it connects to a cigarette lighter, and to a switch, both installed on the service panel. I have no idea of what the switch operates. Others have inclined that it may control a non-existent outdoor light.

The remaining aluminum wires are either 120 volt ac wires, or the thermostat connection for either the furnace or air conditioner (don't remember which).

You said you have six wires. I can only identify five:
dc IN
dc OUT to non-existent light
ac IN
ac OUT
Thermostat connection

I will be working on my Overlander this weekend, and can review my setup if you think it would help. Send me a personal message to remind me if you are interested.

Tom
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Old 05-27-2004, 09:37 AM   #3
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Posts: 40

Jon
Watch those aluminum wires. They are usually hooked to copper wall outlets and over time deteriorate and resistance builds to the point that plugging in a small cube electric heater will melt off the insulation up into the wall. My 68 had aluminum wiring and I bought new co/al boxes for the whole trailer, including behind the refrig. also used a special protectant "salve" after the connections were made in each wall outlet. I highly advise talking to electric supply houses or electricians who were practicing during those years. This is dangerous stuff if you can not replace the aluminum wiring.

Fred
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Old 05-27-2004, 11:11 AM   #4
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Profile:  1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville , Alabama
Posts: 2,622

Quote:
Originally Posted by phred
Watch those aluminum wires. They are usually hooked to copper wall outlets and over time deteriorate and resistance builds to the point that plugging in a small cube electric heater will melt off the insulation up into the wall. My 68 had aluminum wiring and I bought new co/al boxes for the whole trailer, including behind the refrig. also used a special protectant "salve" after the connections were made in each wall outlet. I highly advise talking to electric supply houses or electricians who were practicing during those years. This is dangerous stuff if you can not replace the aluminum wiring.
The aluminum wiring itself will be okay. The problem with aluminum wiring was that inexperienced people were using switches and outlets intended for use with copper wire only. Copper and aluminum expand & contract at different rates when heated or cooled. The fire hazard comes from the screws that attach the wires to the outlet/switch loosen up as a result of repeated heating/contracting. Electricity can arc in the tiny gap created.

Everything I have read makes me think Airstream used the correct switches/outlets in making units with aluminum wiring. I checked the screw tightness on all my outlets a week or two ago, and found nothing of concern. I recommend you do the same.

I assume Phred meant he replaced all the switches and outlets when he said "co/al boxes". The electrical box that houses the switch or outlet is the same for copper or aluminum wire.

Tom
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Old 05-29-2004, 01:10 PM   #5
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Profile:  1966 24' Tradewind
snohomish , Washington
Posts: 35

thanks for the info. i have an update as well, i actually looked at the wires this time. it appears to be 9 wires coming out of the wall in a vertical column. top to bottom

fm antenae
dc copper two conductor
dc copper two conductor
dc copper two conductor
dc copper two conductor
dc copper two conductor
dc copper two conductor
ac aluminium 3 conductor
ac aluminium 3 conductor

i will test this weekend to see if any of them have power. with all these cut i still have power to 110 outlets and all low voltage systems.

i guess what i need to know is what this panel looked like and what i controled, as i should be able to track them down.
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Old 05-29-2004, 02:18 PM   #6
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Profile:  1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville , Alabama
Posts: 2,622

Quote:
Originally Posted by jgouras
thanks for the info. i have an update as well, i actually looked at the wires this time. it appears to be 9 wires coming out of the wall in a vertical column...
Welllllllllll, nine wires; I went back, and only counted seven in mine. I would be jealous if I had the time

Here's a couple of pictures. In my original post, I could only remember five wires. After looking at my setup, I can add "dc OUT", and "FM antenna" to my list of wires.

The first picture also shows the oven gas line; The pencil is sitting on the refrigerator. The second picture shows the service panel. As I recall, top to bottom, the holes are:
12 vdc switch to presently unknown ...something
TV antenna
12 vdc convenience outlet
Thermostat
120 vac outlet

Hope this helps,
Tom
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