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Old 08-20-2017, 08:43 PM   #1
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Shasta Lake , California
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Glenritas '69 Tradewind Project

Well it's about time I start our build thread ....

Back in September 2012 we picked up this 1969 25' Tradewind about 100 miles from home.

It had been sitting in a yard for 5 years unused.

So I brought a jumper battery pack to test the 12v system ... Check

An Air Tank and gauge to test the plumbing system ... Fail - a joint popped apart

Hooked up and moved closer to the guys air compressor, topped up the tires ...Check

Try to connect umbilical ... Fail - won't seat because center lug is to big, get partial lights with bungee cord wrapped around .

Drag it home ... Check
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My Build Thread https://www.airforums.com/forums/f11...ml#post1997059
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Old 08-20-2017, 08:57 PM   #2
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Exterior and my 3 Casitas
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Old 08-20-2017, 09:09 PM   #3
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OK now the plan ...

Start by replacing the tires , wheels , brakes , shocks and axles ...
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2014 Toyota Tundra
1998 Chevy Tahoe
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Old 08-20-2017, 09:20 PM   #4
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Next put water in black tank ... Fail - leak at valve to tank . Hose clamp installed at factory
from the top before the floor was installed.

Remove miss-installed damaged banana wrap at left rear ... Floor falls out ... Fail

Note unprotected floor at rear bumper compartment ...Fail

Note water heater gas line ... Fail
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2014 Toyota Tundra
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Old 08-20-2017, 09:30 PM   #5
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1969 27' Overlander
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Workign on a '69 Overlander, myself. You started with axles, I'm planning ot finish (sort of) with axles. Largely, because it's such an expensive part of the job.
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Old 08-20-2017, 09:56 PM   #6
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So the plan was set , Strip out everything ...
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Old 08-20-2017, 10:06 PM   #7
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On to the rear ...
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Glen & Jane 1969 all electric Airstream 25' TradeWind
2014 Toyota Tundra
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Old 08-20-2017, 10:13 PM   #8
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And the floor damage ...
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Old 08-20-2017, 11:04 PM   #9
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The water inlet is mounted to the rear frame, The power cable comes out of the bumper compartment as does the black water.

The rear hatch has the control valves , Battery, fuse panel, and water pressure regulator and a labyrinth of plumbing. This is neatly concealed by the sink , toilet and bath tub from the interior.

The water heater is located under the street side cabinets, the Univolt is located on the curbside behind the tub just to the rear of the street side hatch.

Below the floor under the toilet is the black tank. It rests on a sheet metal pan that is supported by a cross member above the belly pan.

Well as you may be able to see the water damage to the floor along the back and the curbside .
The damage is contained to the last 4' of the floor.

So My plan is to remove the black tank, water heater , Univolt , all the rear plumbing and copper lines , toilet , sink, tub, battery, fuse panel, breaker box and power cord and lower inner skins to access the elevator bolts .

Then replace the last 4' of the sub floor.
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Old 08-21-2017, 08:45 AM   #10
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OK thats a lot of demo . I should explain the details of it and how I went about it.

But first a background on what they did at the factory when they built my Tradewind.

When the shell was mounted to the floor assembly it was bolted to the outriggers through the "C" channel with elevator bolts and riveted to the front plate and to the lower assembly.

Then the water test for leaks in the shell after that passed, the shell was insulated and wired. If it had a/c the drain lines would be installed and the wiring be left extra long in a loop before going to the curbside interior outlet and the bathroom vanity outlet .
The vent lines for the plumbing is installed in the walls.
Next the inner skin was installed. The breaker box and power cord installed and connected to the mail line to the front breaker box. The outlets were then finished . The water heater installed . The drain plumbing run . The copper plumbing run.

When the interior was fitted at the factory it was done by a 2 man crew. They start at the rear and move forward. This is where it gets interesting , things are layered and rivets and scrwes get buried under the next thing put in . This makes it fun to remove things.
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Old 08-21-2017, 11:22 AM   #11
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I started the strip out at the front by removing the couches , I found the angle the screws were installed at and used power tools to remove them . You could tell buy the angle who in the 2 man crew installed them.
Next out was the night stand/dinning table the the cover over the water tank and the water tank and pump.
Then the window coverings were next.

Now the wall to the front of the Refer and the counter and cabinet over it.

The refer was next . Its bolted to the floor. Most of the nuts came off without a problem but there is always the bolt that turns with the nut. This required reaching in from the vent hole in the floor with one hand to hold it with a wrench while removing the nut with the other hand. From the outside hatch disconnect the gas line. Now the refer is free to remove.
Well almost, there was a hidden screw from the kitchen cabinet front frame that was covered by the drawer cabinet that went through the wall panel into the side of the refer.
Sawsall made quick work of that . NOW the Refer is free at last.

Out slides the wall partition .
Remove the kitchen doors and drawers .
Disconnect the sink trap and water lines.
Disconnect the stove/oven gas line and remove it.

Find the screws that hold the counter top to the wall and floor. You will need a long extension for the screwdriver for the screw between the sinks and behind the stove/ oven . There were 3 in my counter to wall. Now go into the closet next to the kitchen and find the screws that hold the front of the kitchen frame . Power tools make the removal the only way to go as the screws are 1 1/2" long.

Now the kitchen can be removed.
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Old 08-21-2017, 12:30 PM   #12
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Disconnect the gas and electric lines to the furnace , remove the screws that hold it in and remove it . This unit is one of the recalled death traps that rust and leak carbon monoxide.
So it went into the dumpster.

Next the closet next to the kitchen, remove the screws from the ceiling , bathroom wall , shelf and floor and it comes out as an 'ell' watch out for the hanging rod as it falls out.

With this out the only thing holding the over head compartment is the center divider.
I supported it with a 2"x2" screwed to the floor and forward edge of the overhead.
At the rear edge I used a paint stick to the ceiling.

Next up the bed/couch across from the kitchen and out it went.

Everything goes in/out the door.

Next remove the molding around the double door frame to the bathroom, then the doors, then the frame.

Now remove all the doors in the bathroom. Find the screws in the closet frames to the bathroom walls and out they go.

Remove the cabinet next to the toilet , the lid over the toilet and then the toilet.

Next the wall at the end of the tub, then the sliding door cabinet over the tub this is riveted in. Remove it now.

Time to disconnect the plumbing from the sink via the rear hatch.

Unscrew the drain from the floor of the tub. This leaves the trap in the floor under the tub.

Get the drill warmed up and a fresh bit and remove the trim molding around the back wall.
Also remove the trim around the tub and back lower toilet surround.

What ! There are more rivets under all the trim ! Yep they hold all those pieces together, now remove all of them and from the rear hatch remove the screws holding the sink to the base surround and the screws holding that to the floor.

Now if you got all the fasteners the tub , sink and surround will all come out.

With that out you'll be looking at a bunch of plumbing and wires and wonder "What were they thinking ?"
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2014 Toyota Tundra
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2001 Casita 13' Patriot Deluxe

My Build Thread https://www.airforums.com/forums/f11...ml#post1997059
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Old 08-22-2017, 04:18 AM   #13
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Oh the memories........what a slippery slope this can be. Back on mine next week have granddaughter here this week from Calif. She was able to witness totality with us yesterday. This will be fun to follow.
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Old 08-22-2017, 06:36 PM   #14
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Yaaaa ! SilverHoot is back and going to start back up on his build !
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