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Old 08-05-2017, 10:38 PM   #1
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1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown , New Jersey
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 110
Full Monty in Warren County--'67 Trade Wind

My wife and I purchased a 1967 Trade Wind twin ten years ago in Pennsylvania. We towed it to Warren County (New Jersey) and I began to work on its renovation. The trailer had more issues than I first suspected, and I soon found out the attractive floor was installed over the old with a 1/4" plywood underlayment. Once I pulled the interior out and removed the newer floor, the original was found to have a patch at the door and in the bath. It was rotted in front of the door, under the water fill, under the refrigerator, and still in parts of the bath. The curbside inner fender showed signs of a blowout, and the streetside was rotted from window leaks.

I've worked on it in spurts, having replaced a pair of windows and the axles, but mostly a home renovation in Maine got in the way and occupied my summer vacation time. With retirement looming, I've got to finish it at least to the point of being able to tow it to a new home with all the pieces inside.

Having finally solved the window leaks, and they all leaked, I've rented a hangar at a local airport with the intention of removing the shell. I'll do my best to chronicle the transformation, and hope to ask questions along the way.

My first question involves rear end separation. Pictures are attached. Having started to lift the shell, I learned that the C-channel in the rear wraps around the plywood. Does one have to make the edge of the rear piece of plywood thinner to accommodate the channel? When the shell is lowered, do you push the rear wall backwards to get it to wrap around the plywood and then push the wall back in? Any advice is welcome.
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Old 08-06-2017, 05:48 AM   #2
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1964 22' Safari
1968 26' Overlander
Beaver County , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 606
rasmuw,

Congratulations on getting started on your project. We have a '68 Overlander that sat here for almost 8 years waiting for retirement. We put her on the road last year, so we appreciate your feelings as you begin making progress.

We did not lift our shell, but based on your description, it sounds like you're heading in the right direction. I can't imagine having to thin the subfloor to get it to fit in the horizontal part of the rear C channel. The factory wouldn't have wanted to spend that extra time and effort. Here's a link to chrisetmike's thread. He's working on a '67 shell off and may have a lot more detailed information for you. In the thread are several other contributors that could also be resources. You may want to try a PM directly to one of them?

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ty-158909.html

Good luck and we hope you enjoy the project phase as much as we're sure you'll enjoy the travel and adventure.

Roy and Marie

Our thread if interested, https://www.airforums.com/forums/f39...er-155180.html
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Old 08-09-2017, 09:05 PM   #3
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1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown , New Jersey
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 110
Having made some progress since my first post, here are some pictures of the shell and chassis separation. Has anyone else had a shell that was off-balance? I can only think it is the weight of the door. 70 pounds of counterweight on the street side seems to have righted the ship!

Today I received an estimate for soda blasting the frame, epoxy priming, and a single stage urethane topcoat--$4-4.5K. I think it's time for a second estimate.
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Old 08-10-2017, 11:31 PM   #4
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1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown , New Jersey
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 110
The floor came off today, and I've found a sandblaster to show up in a couple of weeks. It's satisfying to have turned the corner--all future work is positive! There is some rust around the step that will have to be repaired, and few pieces of strapping that the belly pan attaches to at the outriggers, but most of the chassis is pretty good.
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Old 08-11-2017, 12:32 AM   #5
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Eugene , OR
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more, please?

Quote:
Originally Posted by rasmuw View Post
The floor came off today, and I've found a sandblaster ... There is some rust around the step that will have to be repaired, and few pieces of strapping that the belly pan attaches to at the outriggers, but most of the chassis is pretty good.
THANKS Rasmuw, please keep us up to speed and post lotsa photos with long captions. Appreciated !
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Old 08-11-2017, 07:25 AM   #6
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1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown , New Jersey
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 110
Thanks for the encouragement!
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:17 PM   #7
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1966 24' Tradewind
Kansas City , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2015
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Images: 1
Boy, does that frame ever look familiar.
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Old 08-13-2017, 09:01 PM   #8
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1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg , Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2009
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Rasmussen

Your frame looks like it is in pretty good shape to me. I am in the middle of some major work on my frame, floor, gray tank, belly pan, axles and brake work. I wire brushed my frame and painted it with Rust Bullet paint. It is unbelievable how well the metallic gray Rust Bullet paint sticks to the wire brushed metal frame. I really think you could wire brush the frame and paint it in a couple of days. I am convinced that my frame is in better shape now than when it left the factory because the paint is so much better. You can check out my work on Dan's Tradewind Improvements.

Good luck, Dan
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:58 AM   #9
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1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown , New Jersey
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 110
Thanks for the interest and suggestions. I read your whole thread today and found it extremely informative and helpful.

When I replaced my axles, I wire brushed that section of the frame and used Marine Clean, Metal Ready, and then POR15. It has held up very well despite having stored the trailer outside on top of dirt and grass. What I didn't like about the process was having to wash the Marine Clean and Metal Ready with water. Admittedly, I did this when working under the trailer. Now that the frame is completely exposed it would not be so difficult. What I worry about is my ability to get into the tight, acute angles and other corners of the frame with a wire brush. While I'm not excited about the cost of the sandblasting, I think he will do a better job at removing the rust. I will follow his work with POR15 and then a top coat.

I've attached some pictures of the rust around my step. Most of the problems were the result of a leaky window. The streetside window leaked like the curbside, but for some reason the rust isn't nearly as bad.
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Old 08-26-2017, 07:51 PM   #10
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1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown , New Jersey
Join Date: Jul 2007
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The frame was sandblasted today. It wasn't cheap, but cheaper than the estimate, and it saved me a lot of time. After a day or two allowing the metal to flash a little, I'll start brushing on the POR15. I had two battery brackets done as well as a spare tire bracket for the front pocket of the frame.
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Old 08-26-2017, 09:08 PM   #11
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1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
Kansas City , Kansas
Join Date: May 2015
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Great progress, Wayne. Glad to see you moving your project forward!
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Old 08-27-2017, 08:09 PM   #12
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1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg , Virginia
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The sandblasted frame looks great!

Dan
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:19 PM   #13
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1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown , New Jersey
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I worked with a local HVAC person who goes to my church to create the wheel wells. All went well until the spot welder misbehaved from time to time. I will clean up the problems with the MIG welder we are using to repair the frame.

Do the wheel wells get attached with butyl tape prior to laying the plywood? What have people used to treat the exterior of the wells? Undercoating? Flex Seal? Something else?
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Old 09-02-2017, 09:44 AM   #14
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1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
Kansas City , Kansas
Join Date: May 2015
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Wayne - I put trempro 635 below and above the flanges. Once installed I applied additional sealant to prevent water from rotting to plywood. Once sealed I sprayed the cavity with automotive underbody paint, which is available in spray cans.

Perhaps you've already noted this, but the fender wells on my trailer protruded ~1/2 beyond the edge of my plywood allowing it to be flush with the exterior skin.
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