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Old 12-13-2017, 11:01 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by rasmuw View Post
... The man doing the work maintains it is a stronger bond than spin welding since one cannot be sure of the weld under the fitting -- you can only see where the edges have melted.
Now if it will only warm up so I can work in the hangar.
Good luck with the weather there.
If you were in or near Illinois I'm sure my brother would help out. He's been a machinist since high school and can make or fix anything. Better luck next time. haha
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Old 12-14-2017, 06:19 PM   #30
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Hi rasmuw: I wish we had some of the cold and snow you folks are getting. It's been too warm and too dry around Colorado for my liking.

I may have trouble draining all the water out of my gray tank due to the rather level run of the drain pipe through the frame. I figure I can jack the trailer up in front and help the tank drain completely.

I wonder if a brass bulkhead fitting with a petcock valve might work. We used them in fuel tanks to drain the tank. They sandwich seal the wall thickness of the tank.

David
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Old 12-14-2017, 08:59 PM   #31
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I may have trouble draining all the water out of my gray tank due to the rather level run of the drain pipe through the frame. I figure I can jack the trailer up in front and help the tank drain completely.
David,

At campgrounds, I will jack the trailer up as you suggest. The drain plugs will be there for cleaning and winterizing.

Thanks!
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Old 12-15-2017, 05:46 PM   #32
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As you know polyethylene is tough and flexible. I just pour a quart or so of RV antifreeze in both the gray and black as well as the fresh tank and call it good. And for cleaning, well I'm not much of a tank cleaner. Out of sight, out of mind as they say.

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Old 01-10-2018, 11:13 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Atomic_13 View Post
Perhaps you've already noted this, but the fender wells on my trailer protruded ~1/2 beyond the edge of my plywood allowing it to be flush with the exterior skin.
I was about to write a post asking about the overhang of the fender wells when I read back through the thread to make sure I wasn't posting photos twice. It was a relief to find your post since I was getting anxious after trial fitting the new wells and floor pieces. I am confident the plywood I cut was a duplicate of the original, and it overhangs the outriggers. The fender wells overhang even more, so I reattached the old wells. The streetside overhangs the outrigger by 9/16", while the curbside only overhangs by 5/16". I'm not sure why it isn't the same.

Part of my anxiety is not knowing the tolerances from the factory. For example, while installing gray tanks, I've learned the cross-pieces are not welded perpendicular to the long C-channels running from front to back. I was concerned about the shell connecting properly to the fender wells, but you have given me renewed confidence that I'm on the right path. Thanks!
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Old 06-11-2018, 11:14 PM   #34
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My school year has ended, allowing me some time to finish installing the subfloor. There was enough of the original floor for me to figure out where the elevator bolts were inserted, except for the last four feet under the bath. A previous owner did some repairs to the bath floor so that most of the center of the floor was replaced. I am assuming that there were six elevator bolts holding the plywood to the intermediate cross-piece and outriggers two feet back from the seam formed with the piece forward of this last section. My questions: Were there bolts holding the floor to the two longitudinal (front to back) C-shaped chassis members? (I have a hole on each side.) Should there be some insulation between the plywood and the frame at the back edge of this last piece of plywood? This is where a strip of aluminum is attached that connects the exterior slinky storage to under the C-channel of the rear of the shell. I am using foam sill sealer rather than the original fiberglass.
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Old 06-13-2018, 06:52 PM   #35
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Hi Wayne, Hope your teaching year went well, and now an Airstream break for a while. I've been plugging away on my Overlander, but summer time activities slow me down. No matter, I have no deadlines.

My old 66, and my current 75, have elevator bolts between subfloor and longitudinal frame rails. Sometimes I think the Airstream assemblers just installed the bolts like a carpenter drives nails in a framing job. They were not noticeably on a particular pattern. And the elevator bolts were not necessarily installed at the intersection of the frame rail and the crossmember. Let's see what some others have to say.

I believe Airstream would roll out the fiberglass insulation on the bottom of the subfloor, and then install the subfloor on the frame. Easy peasy. I have found cases where the insulation is wet and causing rust on crossmembers and the frame rails themselves. I would not consider it important to have insulation between the C channel and the dreaded aluminum "cover plate" at the rear of the trailer. In fact, I am not re-installing this aluminum cover plate on my Overlander. Rain water flows down the back of the body, collected on this cover plate and then finds its way into my subfloor and rots it out. I plan on letting the rain water run into my bumper storage area and then I will let it drain to the ground. That said, there is no easy fix except a good caulk job between the body C channel and the rear frame members.

Maybe the photo shows my planned "drain gap" at the rear bumper storage area.

David
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Link to my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
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Old 08-04-2018, 06:29 PM   #36
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The plywood floor has been installed and the vinyl has been laid. I'm sorry for not getting a complete picture of the plywood prior to gluing down the vinyl. If all goes well and I can find enough hands to hold the lower skins that wrap underneath the chassis, the shell will have a chassis underneath it tomorrow.
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Old 08-04-2018, 06:44 PM   #37
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If you can’t find enough hands for the belly pan, use ratchet straps. Leave enough slack to adjust the aluminum. Good luck, Bubba
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Old 08-05-2018, 06:58 AM   #38
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The parts I need to have held when the chassis goes underneath the shell are the parts of the side walls that extend below floor level and eventually get riveted to the outriggers. There are five total but I think one person can hold the two that flank the entry door.
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Old 08-06-2018, 07:11 AM   #39
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Hi Wayne: Getting ready for the "wedding" day when the body meets the subfloor and frame again. Married.

I believe the parts you need held out are called belly wraps. Airstream simply extended the exterior skins below the rub rail and wrapped them around the outriggers. Many folks like this design as there is one less seam to leak. The 69 and newer bodies have a separate wrap with a seam at the rub rail.

So you need the wraps held away enough so they don't get caught on the subfloor when lowering the body. What if you gently, precisely lowered the body just to the point of contact and then walked around and pulled the wraps outside the subfloor. Or maybe there are some scrap pieces of aluminum that could be taped to the subfloor and used as guides for the wraps and removed when the body wraps are below the subfloor. Lowering the body on the subfloor is a challenge in a one man operation. I bet you will figure something out.

David
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Old 08-06-2018, 01:27 PM   #40
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What David said is exactly what I did with mine. Worked like a charm. The key was doing it ever so gradually.
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Old 08-09-2018, 05:09 PM   #41
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I found five people to help slip the chassis under the shell. It took about 15 minutes. That was Sunday.

On Monday, the man who built the new cabinets and helped to lay the vinyl floor helped lower the shell onto the chassis. It was relatively easy to get the 36 holes in the shell to line up with the vertical steel plate at the front of the chassis. What wasn't as easy was to get the shell behind it to shift as far back as it thought it should be. I had drilled three of the ribs at floor height to use some 2x4 to keep the shell spread as it was originally. Using them and a pry bar, we gradually worked the shell backwards but still ended up with a little "bubbling" of the skin when the banana wraps were added. This is a bit confusing since we were able to line up the holes in the skin, C channel, and banana wraps. I ended up having to snip off about 1/4" of C channel behind the wheel wells. Of course, since the wheel wells were new, maybe they were a bit larger than original.

All is bolted down to the chassis except for the rear end. I am awaiting a shipment of aluminum from Airparts Inc. so that I can fabricate two pieces at the bumper, rivet to the C channel, and bolt to the chassis. In the meantime, I reattached the Fantastic fan parts that I had removed to access the beam used to lift the shell. I finished painting the brushable ProFlex RV Sealant on all the seams and rivets on the inside of the shell. Insulation and electrical is next.
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Old 08-09-2018, 05:14 PM   #42
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I seem to have omitted pictures of the gray tanks prior to laying the plywood floor.
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