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Old 09-02-2017, 06:04 PM   #15
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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Always enjoy watching someone else work on their old Trade Wind. I'm going to follow along. I'm sure I will learn something new. You are going at it right with a total frame restoration.

David
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Old 11-06-2017, 07:45 AM   #16
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
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Control Center

rasmuw,

I noticed on pythonesk's thread you were asking about the control center above the fridge. The '66 was identical to the '67 and we rebuilt our '66 using the original as a pattern. Here are some shots of our center. We added receptacles to our panel, but have seen an original with just the pump switch, VAC plug and VDC plug.

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Notice the light gray welt material between the panels at the top/side. It came from Vintage Trailer Supply.

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This is the original towel bar inside. Note the panel on the bottom is fixed.

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There is a removable panel inside to access the wiring in the control center.


Let me know if you need any detailed dimensions.
Good luck
Bubba
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:19 AM   #17
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1967 24' Tradewind
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Bubba--Thanks for the pictures and suggestions. I'm hoping to use a Control Center from a '68 I parted out in place of all the individual switch plates. I'm not sure I'll be able to get the sensors to work in the black tank and water tank I have, and I'm adding two gray tanks. Other posts I've read suggest the sensors are prone to fouling, if they work at all, and the control center would be a challenge to restore.

The See Level indicator is a whole lot more compact, and reliable, but it doesn't have the cool AA battery powered clock that is so period.
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:50 AM   #18
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1966 22' Safari
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To reuse the original 68 control center would be great. I would for sure try and rebuild it. Maybe a few trips to Radio Shack and a soldering iron may do the trick. Go for it. Good luck and let us know if you get the control center operable. Bubba
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Old 11-06-2017, 11:15 AM   #19
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Wayne - I have two of these 1968 control panels I don't plan to use. If you find you are in need of any parts to fix yours let me know. Happy to help. Brian
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Old 11-06-2017, 05:55 PM   #20
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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Funny how Airstream liked these "control centers". Probably sold a lot of trailers. It gave the trailer a "high tech" look and feel. Space age.

The 66 Trade Wind was not an International and did not have a control center. My 75 Overlander is an International and has a big control center, mainly for truning on the water pump and exhaust fan over the cooktop. The 86 Limited has a fancy control center that does the tank levels, date and time, water pump, and I don't know what else.

I agree the SeeLevel system is the way to go to monitor tank fluid levels. The SeeLevel worked great in the Trade Wind. My Overlander will get this system too.

David
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:31 PM   #21
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1967 24' Tradewind
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Quote:
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Wayne - I have two of these 1968 control panels I don't plan to use. If you find you are in need of any parts to fix yours let me know. Happy to help. Brian
Thanks for the offer Brian. This probably won't happen for a few months.
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:38 PM   #22
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1967 24' Tradewind
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Work has been slow since school began. I can't believe they expect me to work as much as I do. Here are some pictures of the finished frame following sandblasting and welding. I used POR15 on everything, then POR topcoat around the wheel wells where sun might get to it, and POR Sterling Silver for the hitch, step, and bumper.
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Old 11-10-2017, 06:42 PM   #23
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Gee, a brand new 67 Trade Wind frame. And with proper top coating to boot. That frame will last until 2100. Very nice job.

David
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Old 11-10-2017, 08:01 PM   #24
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Agree with David. Nice work!
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Old 11-11-2017, 08:59 PM   #25
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Full Monty in Warren County--'67 Trade Wind

Beautiful work on the frame Wayne. It is better than new because of the por15 protection.

Of course if that were my frame I would need to cut the skids off (1.5” frame extensions), because I wouldn’t need them.

BTW my wife is a teacher also. She works easily 65 hours per week and they still want more!

Dan
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Old 11-11-2017, 10:28 PM   #26
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1967 24' Tradewind
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Of course if that were my frame I would need to cut the skids off (1.5” frame extensions), because I wouldn’t need them
I thought of cutting them off when I read what you've done to your trailer. I plan to re-use the black tank and screw it to the floor. The problem is that I read your thread after the sandblasting and most of the painting. If the skids get in the way of the gray tank and black tank waste valves, they'll be gone.
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Old 11-12-2017, 06:11 PM   #27
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1986 34' Limited
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In 1975 Airstream used the 2" skid channels as extra room for the holding tanks. The frame channel is 5" and the skid channels are 2" giving room for a 7" high tank. The belly pan is attached to the skid channels. See photo.

TouringDan is a boondocker and doesn't need big holding tanks. I like the extra capacity and don't mind losing 2" clearance at the rear of the trailer. I measured the departure angle on the Overlander at 10 degrees from the rear tire contact patch to the rear bumper. I've used those skids exiting a rather steep entrance to a fuel station.

David
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Old 12-13-2017, 08:02 PM   #28
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1967 24' Tradewind
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One of the major stumbling blocks to further work on my chassis and floor are the gray tanks. I ordered two tanks from Inca Plastics that would fit the 4" high spaces in the frame. With the drains from the tanks going back through the ovals in the cross-members, as much as a quarter of the 16 gallon tanks would be trapped. In order to fully drain the tanks, I specified that fittings in the bottom of the tanks be placed 6" from the rear. The problem is that the forward tank, meant to connect to the kitchen sink, had a fitting directly over the front axle. There would be no way to put a plug in it and have access as well. Not wanting to absorb the cost of a new tank or the shipping cost from NJ to CA, I began to hunt for a local source to spin weld a new fitting. I could not find anyone east of Ohio. I did find a small company in Allentown, PA, who would stick weld a fitting on.

Stick welding polyethylene uses hot air, about 350C, and a flexible stick of polyethylene stock about 1/8" in diameter. The man doing the work maintains it is a stronger bond than spin welding since one cannot be sure of the weld under the fitting--you can only see where the edges have melted.

Now if it will only warm up so I can work in the hangar.
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