|
|
08-05-2017, 10:38 PM
|
#1
|
3 Rivet Member
1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 136
|
Full Monty in Warren County--'67 Trade Wind
My wife and I purchased a 1967 Trade Wind twin ten years ago in Pennsylvania. We towed it to Warren County (New Jersey) and I began to work on its renovation. The trailer had more issues than I first suspected, and I soon found out the attractive floor was installed over the old with a 1/4" plywood underlayment. Once I pulled the interior out and removed the newer floor, the original was found to have a patch at the door and in the bath. It was rotted in front of the door, under the water fill, under the refrigerator, and still in parts of the bath. The curbside inner fender showed signs of a blowout, and the streetside was rotted from window leaks.
I've worked on it in spurts, having replaced a pair of windows and the axles, but mostly a home renovation in Maine got in the way and occupied my summer vacation time. With retirement looming, I've got to finish it at least to the point of being able to tow it to a new home with all the pieces inside.
Having finally solved the window leaks, and they all leaked, I've rented a hangar at a local airport with the intention of removing the shell. I'll do my best to chronicle the transformation, and hope to ask questions along the way.
My first question involves rear end separation. Pictures are attached. Having started to lift the shell, I learned that the C-channel in the rear wraps around the plywood. Does one have to make the edge of the rear piece of plywood thinner to accommodate the channel? When the shell is lowered, do you push the rear wall backwards to get it to wrap around the plywood and then push the wall back in? Any advice is welcome.
|
|
|
08-06-2017, 05:48 AM
|
#2
|
Rivet Master
1964 22' Safari
1968 26' Overlander
Beaver County
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 620
|
rasmuw,
Congratulations on getting started on your project. We have a '68 Overlander that sat here for almost 8 years waiting for retirement. We put her on the road last year, so we appreciate your feelings as you begin making progress.
We did not lift our shell, but based on your description, it sounds like you're heading in the right direction. I can't imagine having to thin the subfloor to get it to fit in the horizontal part of the rear C channel. The factory wouldn't have wanted to spend that extra time and effort. Here's a link to chrisetmike's thread. He's working on a '67 shell off and may have a lot more detailed information for you. In the thread are several other contributors that could also be resources. You may want to try a PM directly to one of them?
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f44...ty-158909.html
Good luck and we hope you enjoy the project phase as much as we're sure you'll enjoy the travel and adventure.
Roy and Marie
Our thread if interested, https://www.airforums.com/forums/f39...er-155180.html
|
|
|
08-09-2017, 09:05 PM
|
#3
|
3 Rivet Member
1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 136
|
Having made some progress since my first post, here are some pictures of the shell and chassis separation. Has anyone else had a shell that was off-balance? I can only think it is the weight of the door. 70 pounds of counterweight on the street side seems to have righted the ship!
Today I received an estimate for soda blasting the frame, epoxy priming, and a single stage urethane topcoat--$4-4.5K. I think it's time for a second estimate.
|
|
|
08-10-2017, 11:31 PM
|
#4
|
3 Rivet Member
1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 136
|
The floor came off today, and I've found a sandblaster to show up in a couple of weeks. It's satisfying to have turned the corner--all future work is positive! There is some rust around the step that will have to be repaired, and few pieces of strapping that the belly pan attaches to at the outriggers, but most of the chassis is pretty good.
|
|
|
08-11-2017, 12:32 AM
|
#5
|
2 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
Eugene
, OR
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 86
|
more, please?
Quote:
Originally Posted by rasmuw
The floor came off today, and I've found a sandblaster ... There is some rust around the step that will have to be repaired, and few pieces of strapping that the belly pan attaches to at the outriggers, but most of the chassis is pretty good.
|
THANKS Rasmuw, please keep us up to speed and post lotsa photos with long captions. Appreciated !
|
|
|
08-11-2017, 07:25 AM
|
#6
|
3 Rivet Member
1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 136
|
Thanks for the encouragement!
__________________
Wayne
|
|
|
08-12-2017, 08:17 PM
|
#7
|
Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
Kansas City
, Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 633
|
Boy, does that frame ever look familiar.
|
|
|
08-13-2017, 09:01 PM
|
#8
|
Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,225
|
Rasmussen
Your frame looks like it is in pretty good shape to me. I am in the middle of some major work on my frame, floor, gray tank, belly pan, axles and brake work. I wire brushed my frame and painted it with Rust Bullet paint. It is unbelievable how well the metallic gray Rust Bullet paint sticks to the wire brushed metal frame. I really think you could wire brush the frame and paint it in a couple of days. I am convinced that my frame is in better shape now than when it left the factory because the paint is so much better. You can check out my work on Dan's Tradewind Improvements.
Good luck, Dan
|
|
|
08-22-2017, 08:58 AM
|
#9
|
3 Rivet Member
1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 136
|
Thanks for the interest and suggestions. I read your whole thread today and found it extremely informative and helpful.
When I replaced my axles, I wire brushed that section of the frame and used Marine Clean, Metal Ready, and then POR15. It has held up very well despite having stored the trailer outside on top of dirt and grass. What I didn't like about the process was having to wash the Marine Clean and Metal Ready with water. Admittedly, I did this when working under the trailer. Now that the frame is completely exposed it would not be so difficult. What I worry about is my ability to get into the tight, acute angles and other corners of the frame with a wire brush. While I'm not excited about the cost of the sandblasting, I think he will do a better job at removing the rust. I will follow his work with POR15 and then a top coat.
I've attached some pictures of the rust around my step. Most of the problems were the result of a leaky window. The streetside window leaked like the curbside, but for some reason the rust isn't nearly as bad.
__________________
Wayne
|
|
|
08-26-2017, 07:51 PM
|
#10
|
3 Rivet Member
1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 136
|
The frame was sandblasted today. It wasn't cheap, but cheaper than the estimate, and it saved me a lot of time. After a day or two allowing the metal to flash a little, I'll start brushing on the POR15. I had two battery brackets done as well as a spare tire bracket for the front pocket of the frame.
__________________
Wayne
|
|
|
08-26-2017, 09:08 PM
|
#11
|
4 Rivet Member
1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
Detroit
, Michigan
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 467
|
Great progress, Wayne. Glad to see you moving your project forward!
|
|
|
08-27-2017, 08:09 PM
|
#12
|
Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,225
|
The sandblasted frame looks great!
Dan
|
|
|
09-01-2017, 10:19 PM
|
#13
|
3 Rivet Member
1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 136
|
I worked with a local HVAC person who goes to my church to create the wheel wells. All went well until the spot welder misbehaved from time to time. I will clean up the problems with the MIG welder we are using to repair the frame.
Do the wheel wells get attached with butyl tape prior to laying the plywood? What have people used to treat the exterior of the wells? Undercoating? Flex Seal? Something else?
__________________
Wayne
|
|
|
09-02-2017, 09:44 AM
|
#14
|
4 Rivet Member
1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
Detroit
, Michigan
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 467
|
Wayne - I put trempro 635 below and above the flanges. Once installed I applied additional sealant to prevent water from rotting to plywood. Once sealed I sprayed the cavity with automotive underbody paint, which is available in spray cans.
Perhaps you've already noted this, but the fender wells on my trailer protruded ~1/2 beyond the edge of my plywood allowing it to be flush with the exterior skin.
|
|
|
09-02-2017, 06:04 PM
|
#15
|
Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,278
|
Always enjoy watching someone else work on their old Trade Wind. I'm going to follow along. I'm sure I will learn something new. You are going at it right with a total frame restoration.
David
|
|
|
11-06-2017, 07:45 AM
|
#16
|
Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,931
|
Control Center
rasmuw,
I noticed on pythonesk's thread you were asking about the control center above the fridge. The '66 was identical to the '67 and we rebuilt our '66 using the original as a pattern. Here are some shots of our center. We added receptacles to our panel, but have seen an original with just the pump switch, VAC plug and VDC plug.
Notice the light gray welt material between the panels at the top/side. It came from Vintage Trailer Supply.
This is the original towel bar inside. Note the panel on the bottom is fixed.
There is a removable panel inside to access the wiring in the control center.
Let me know if you need any detailed dimensions.
Good luck
Bubba
|
|
|
11-06-2017, 10:19 AM
|
#17
|
3 Rivet Member
1967 24' Tradewind
Blairstown
, New Jersey
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 136
|
Bubba--Thanks for the pictures and suggestions. I'm hoping to use a Control Center from a '68 I parted out in place of all the individual switch plates. I'm not sure I'll be able to get the sensors to work in the black tank and water tank I have, and I'm adding two gray tanks. Other posts I've read suggest the sensors are prone to fouling, if they work at all, and the control center would be a challenge to restore.
The See Level indicator is a whole lot more compact, and reliable, but it doesn't have the cool AA battery powered clock that is so period.
__________________
Wayne
|
|
|
11-06-2017, 10:50 AM
|
#18
|
Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,931
|
To reuse the original 68 control center would be great. I would for sure try and rebuild it. Maybe a few trips to Radio Shack and a soldering iron may do the trick. Go for it. Good luck and let us know if you get the control center operable. Bubba
|
|
|
11-06-2017, 11:15 AM
|
#19
|
4 Rivet Member
1968 24' Tradewind
1968 26' Overlander
Detroit
, Michigan
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 467
|
Wayne - I have two of these 1968 control panels I don't plan to use. If you find you are in need of any parts to fix yours let me know. Happy to help. Brian
|
|
|
11-06-2017, 05:55 PM
|
#20
|
Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,278
|
Funny how Airstream liked these "control centers". Probably sold a lot of trailers. It gave the trailer a "high tech" look and feel. Space age.
The 66 Trade Wind was not an International and did not have a control center. My 75 Overlander is an International and has a big control center, mainly for truning on the water pump and exhaust fan over the cooktop. The 86 Limited has a fancy control center that does the tank levels, date and time, water pump, and I don't know what else.
I agree the SeeLevel system is the way to go to monitor tank fluid levels. The SeeLevel worked great in the Trade Wind. My Overlander will get this system too.
David
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|