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Old 02-26-2008, 03:37 PM   #1
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1966 24' Tradewind
Valley Village , California
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Smile Doing the Research on Renovating a '66 Tradewind

Hello to anyone who can help!

I'm new to the forums and I've spent hours and hours just reading trying to figure everything out. I've never owned a trailer before so most of the how-to's are completely new to me. (I think I've read "electrical 101" over 1000 times... soooo useful!)

My intention is to live/work out of my trailer and I am going to "pimp my ride" from the ground up. I still can't decide about the floor replacement but I think everything else has to be upgraded. (It's pretty trashed and what isn't trashed is just icky to me). I'm trying to learn all I can before I start so I don't wish I had done something differently... when the walls were open for instance.

I have a ga-zillion questions and I need things explained to me in layman's terms... not too techie please. Thanks in advance for all your help!
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Old 02-26-2008, 04:15 PM   #2
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1966 24' Tradewind
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First... The Electrical System

I don't really camp very much and when I do, I've always just used a tent, a cooler and a sleeping bag so I was originally thinking to just use "shore" power... I know... a big mistake! Sooo, I've re-thunk (?) the idea. I think I've finally figured out battery vs. shore power but I'm trying to figure the best way to go about it for my needs.

I don't use microwaves and I don't use a drip coffee maker but I do have a laptop w/ multiple touchscreen monitors. I run everything off my laptop... work, movies, music, on-line television.... everything! I understand when I'm plugged in, it's not an issue but when I'm unleashed...

Will 2 - Trojan T-105's and a Xantrex Freedom HF 1000 Inverter-Charger do the trick if I run my laptop a few hours a day? I can turn off the multiple monitors and just use one. (I was also thinking to maybe add a solar panel in the future but that's another story.)

I don't need a converter too since the inverter has a charger do I?

Since it's not a pure sine wave inverter, will it damage my computer/monitors or will it just affect the quality while it is running off the inverter?

Is there any advantage to using circuit breakers instead of fuses? And for a really dumb question... I don't need both do I? They pretty much do the same thing, right?

I don't have a clue about wire size??? All the charts explaining it go over my head! If someone could just tell me the size I need (if it's one size fits the whole trailer), that would be great!

I'm not quite sure where to put everything. Does this type of battery have to go on the outside of the trailer? Can the inverter be on the opposite end of the trailer. Can they either one go next to the fresh water tanks? Can they be next to each other in the rear by the fuse panel/circuit breaker where the toilet is?

And lastly, I don't have an owner's manual. If anyone has one they could copy (1966 Tradewind... double, I think) I would pay you. Even if you just copy the electric, gas and plumbing pages.

Thanks again for all your help!
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Old 03-09-2008, 08:01 PM   #3
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1966 24' Tradewind
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Hellooooooo!
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Old 03-09-2008, 08:20 PM   #4
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1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
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Hi Amalgamator,

If you haven't already checked them out, I think a good resource for you would be the many "Full Monte" threads on this message board. They won't necesarily answer your specific questions, but they should give you some good ideas that might help you avoid wishing you'd done something differently.

You can find them here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ons-35399.html

Also, you might have better luck with your specific electrical questions on the Electrical Subforum, which can be found here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/

Good luck with your restoration!
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Old 03-09-2008, 08:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amalgamator
Hello to anyone who can help!

HEEELLLOOO!
I'm new to the forums and I've spent hours and hours just reading trying to figure everything out. I've never owned a trailer before so most of the how-to's are completely new to me. (I think I've read "electrical 101" over 1000 times... soooo useful!)

My intention is to live/work out of my trailer and I am going to "pimp my ride" from the ground up. I still can't decide about the floor replacement but I think everything else has to be upgraded. (It's pretty trashed and what isn't trashed is just icky to me). I'm trying to learn all I can before I start so I don't wish I had done something differently... when the walls were open for instance.

I have a ga-zillion questions and I need things explained to me in layman's terms... not too techie please. Thanks in advance for all your help!
Have you checked the forum page and sub forums under electrical and computer connectivity, and other wiring related sub threads? ? I remember reading that much of this has been discussed in great detail and you can pick and choose what you need, and then follow up on your individual threads.
Your question alone was way over my head, but there are lots of techie helpers here that can probably help.
happy searching
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Old 03-24-2008, 06:29 PM   #6
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1966 24' Tradewind
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Thanks for the info... I'll try posting it in a different forum
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Old 08-20-2008, 01:03 PM   #7
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1966 24' Tradewind
Valley Village , California
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A Question Relating to the 7-Pin Connector

I got a tow vehicle... A 2003 Ford F-150. I'm getting ready to tow it across country to get some help with the remodel.

I'm getting the receiver and brake controller put on the truck this week and then I'll probably take it to Andy for the Axles next month.

The problem is... The 7-Pin Connector on the Airstream needs to be changed. It's really worn and frayed. Also the brakelights are being replaced. I can get it to the tow receiver guy 'cause he's just a mile down the road but I can't get it to Corona where Andy is without having it changed.

How should I go about changing it? Is the round pin or flat pin better?

Any info would be helpful! I'm assuming if I know ahead of time what I need to do, I can give the tow receiver guy the correct info so he can wire the truck correctly.

Thanks a bunch!
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Old 08-20-2008, 01:12 PM   #8
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These are what came in my 66 Caravel manual. I believe it's available on line somewhere but if not I can copy pages for you.

I would go with the round 7-pin as that is the most common for RV trailers. A new cable and molded plug can be found at any RV supply of dealership - about $25 for an 8' length - more than enough to get to the underpan access in the front of your trailer right behind the A-frame and hitch.
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Old 08-20-2008, 01:14 PM   #9
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Some people have said the round pins are better for connectivity or connector stability-- I don't know as I've never seen one.

If you want the trailer to be compatible with as many TVs as possible (in case of emergency, or a friend needs to pull it, or you sell your old TV and buy a new one) then it's probably best to go with the flat connectors, as those are pretty much the industry standard at this time.

Good luck!

-Marcus

On Edit: I'm still talking about the round plastic conncetor with 7 pins, but the pin connectors themselves are flat blade-type rather than round, which was an old standard. Hope this isn't confusing.
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Old 08-20-2008, 01:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amalgamator View Post
Hello to anyone who can help!

I'm new to the forums and I've spent hours and hours just reading trying to figure everything out. I've never owned a trailer before so most of the how-to's are completely new to me. (I think I've read "electrical 101" over 1000 times... soooo useful!)

My intention is to live/work out of my trailer and I am going to "pimp my ride" from the ground up. I still can't decide about the floor replacement but I think everything else has to be upgraded. (It's pretty trashed and what isn't trashed is just icky to me). I'm trying to learn all I can before I start so I don't wish I had done something differently... when the walls were open for instance.

I have a ga-zillion questions and I need things explained to me in layman's terms... not too techie please. Thanks in advance for all your help!

We carry, over 3300 different Airstream parts in stock.

If you wish to chat with someone that can help you with design changes or upgrades, you can reach them at 800-8777311.

Andy
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Old 08-20-2008, 01:28 PM   #11
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Hi Amalgamator. Congrats on the Tradewind, you have one just like ours. Even though we havent had a chance to camp in it yet, we are still working towards that goal. I would love to see some pictures of yours if you have any. And I am also curious how the remod turns out. Keep us informed please!!
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Old 08-20-2008, 01:35 PM   #12
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1966 24' Tradewind
Valley Village , California
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That was fast!

Thanks! That was exactly the info I was looking for.

This is the wiring diagram from the Airstream Website
http://www.airstream.com/docs/7wayplug1966-81.pdf

This is the wiring diagram from Vintage Trailer Supply w/ an 8 foot cord like you suggested
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Bargman_7_Way_Cable_p/vts-364.htm


If I go with the Vintage Trailer Supply cord I should pull all the wires and start over... Correct?

When you mention the access to the undercarriage, do you mean the cut-out underneath the propane tanks?
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Old 08-20-2008, 01:56 PM   #13
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1966 24' Tradewind
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One more question... Which is better, plastic, zinc or metal?
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Old 08-20-2008, 02:01 PM   #14
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I can only tell you what I did - I went to a local RV supply and bought the Bargram premolded connector molded to the cable. I then accessed the junction under the front end of my trailer (yours may be different) - there is an access plate about 10"by10" with 6 screws. That is where the wires from the connector join with the trailer internal wires. I marked the wires carfully - the colors may not match the colors going to the connector and the new connector cable may not have the coresponding color scheme for the old one. I then used the old wire to pull the new wire inside the frame and to the junction box access by taping them together and pulling CAREFULLY. I reattached the wires and used a multimeter to check the pins to the connections and corresponding truck connector. It can be tricky as there are 7 wires and 7 combinations and so on. In general, check your truck manual and wire it up from there - have a multimeter and a 12v battery to confirm connections and off you go.
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Old 08-20-2008, 02:06 PM   #15
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The pin connections on the vintage traler supply page with the cable is the more modern configuration and probably the one your truck has. The older one from the AS web page is what you probably originally had but has it been changed and updated before you got it?

I like the plastic moded type shown from VTS - but save some $$ and look locally - they are a common item form farm supply, trailer places, auto parts stores, etc.....
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Old 08-20-2008, 02:50 PM   #16
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1966 24' Tradewind
Valley Village , California
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Okay, I got it! I found the access panel. Woo hoo! It makes perfect sense now... Thank you Clancy Boy.

Silver Threads, I'm taking pictures of everything but I can't even begin to explain anything I've done so far, which isn't much... other than read. The plan is to work remotely for the next few months and get started on the remodel. I can post before's if I can figure out how (see above attempt)... but that's about it.
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Old 08-20-2008, 03:19 PM   #17
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You should be able to buy an adapter for your laptop so you can run it off of 12VDC. This would be better than useing an inverter.
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:35 PM   #18
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1966 24' Tradewind
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The Photos You Requested

BooYah!
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Old 05-13-2009, 12:59 AM   #19
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1966 24' Tradewind
Valley Village , California
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A Little Progress

A lot has happened since my last post. Back in October, I stuck with the plan and towed the trailer to the South where I have room to work on it. Before I left, I was able to get it over to Inland RV for new axles, wheels and tires... Not cheap! But I felt safe towing it after that so it was well worth it.

Also, before I left, I got started stripping the vinyl off the inner walls. I did this for a few reasons. One, the previous owner had painted over the vinyl and it was peeling and clumpy. Two, it looked like mold was growing in between the vinyl and paint in places. And three, I love the look of polished aluminium! Who doesn't!?! I got some good photos of removing the vinyl. I'll post them later when I figure out how to again.

I have since discovered that I can't get the aluminium clean enough to make it look good. That adhesive is a bear! I used Klean-Strip to get the vinyl off and Stripeeze to remove the adhesive... which works... but not well enough. The aluminium has dots from the adhesive and is discolored in places. I think I could eventually, after 10 gallons of Stripeeze, get most of the remnants of adhesive off but then I can't imagine how many hours of polishing I would have after that and I'm still not sure it would work and have an even look to it so... I'm going to paint it. I figure it will be less maintenance and maybe it will help with the insulation even if it's just a little. I just came to this conclusion today so more about this later after I decide how I'm going to do it.



Let's see... what else? The short list is:
  • I gutted it
  • Removed the top coat
  • Removed the inner walls
  • Removed the floor
  • Dropped the belly pan... most of it.
  • Painted the frame
  • Installed 3 new tanks. 1 Black and 2 Grey.
  • Replaced the floor
  • Insulated 1st layer of Reflective Insulation
  • Installed 3 Fantastic Fans and 1 Air Conditioner
  • Started repairing Fiberglass from the Bathroom (There are about 100 screw holes/rivet holes that don't belong!?! and I'm moving the sink)
I think that's it. I'm a little ADD so, at the moment, I'm still working on the inner walls, the fiberglass bathroom and rewiring the whole trailer. The only hold up for now is this never-ending RAIN! I'm a California Girl and totally forgot how much in rains in the rest of the world... Ugh!
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Old 05-13-2009, 05:38 AM   #20
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Sound like you have been a busy gal. When you get ready to paint the walls, there is a special primer, I believe it's called an etching primer that you have to use on aluminum before you can paint it. If not the paint will peel off. And it sound like you have done a lot of work on the walls so far, you don't want to take 2 steps forward and then 3 steps back.

Annette
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