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Old 07-17-2013, 03:40 PM   #29
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1966 24' Tradewind
Livingston , Texas
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Wow, room for 4 batteries total...that's reclaiming some real estate!

Glad the access door accommodated the tank. Interesting that the seat height is that different. I guess the 60's standard would have been lower, even in household applications.

Thank you again for sharing your ideas and experiences, Dan.

Lou
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Old 07-17-2013, 03:44 PM   #30
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1966 24' Tradewind
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Lynchburg , Virginia
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Here a some photos showing removal of the bottom of the toilet for dumping the 5.5 gal capacity contents into a regular toilet.
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Old 07-23-2013, 09:16 PM   #31
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I have finished installing the metal re-enforced plastic trim and the aluminum piano hinge on the small hatch door needed to access the flush lever for the toilet. Here are two photos:

Notice in the first photo that I still need to install the shoe molding at the cork floor (I had to finish the toilet install before I did this) and need to cover the lever access slot in the front of the console needed to flush the original toilet.

Dan
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:43 AM   #32
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Here are some more photos showing installation of a "Curve" porta potti in my 66 Tradewind, specifically showing the trim used and access to the flush lever.

Dan
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:26 PM   #33
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1966 24' Tradewind
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Lynchburg , Virginia
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I just finished installing a new Dometic RM2510 fridge in my Tradewind. I started a thread titled "Refrigerator Baffling & Sealing" that covers part of the installation details. I wanted to cover the rest of the Tradewind affected details in this thread.

I was having performance problems with my old fridge, just so so cooling, and lately it would not operate on gas at all, and I boondock a lot so this was unacceptable. If you have ever removed a TW fridge, you know that it is a PITA. Fridge reliability is of utmost importance since it is such a PITA to remove it.

The original installation did nothing in the way of baffling to help fridge performance and did very little to seal the vent area and exhaust area from the trailer living area. This is both a safety concern and a performance concern; ie I want all the heat and exhaust products in the vent area behind the fridge to be vented out the roof vent. I don't want them going into the trailer. The new fridge provide a foam seal around the sides and top of the mounting plate, but nothing at the bottom. I used part of a regular exterior door foam seal to make my own seal at the bottom. This was installed between the bottom of the front of the fridge and and the cork floor.

One key element to installation of this fridge, or any other fridge is to use a remote thermometer to monitor the temperature in the fridge without opening the door. I bought one at Walmart based on a recommendation from Hoonanea and it works great. Every fridge should have one. It shows, on setting 2, that the fridge is from 34 to 38 degrees with an outside temperature from 74 to 87.

Dan
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:48 PM   #34
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Battery Shelf & hold down modification

This is an update to post #8 where I installed a new battery shelf and 2 golf cart batteries.

When I removed the original toilet and installed the porta potty, this required moving the rear battery over, so that there would be room to flush the toilet. This resulted in the batteries rotating slightly after traveling for a while. To fix this I installed solid wood stops behind the batteries and in front of the batteries to keep them from rotating. Removing the batteries is actually easier now since I can remove the porta potty and slide the batteries out onto the porta potty false floor to check the water level. It takes 10 minutes max. I also put 3-4 coats of polyurethane on so it would look better and would be easy to keep clean.

Dan
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Old 08-16-2013, 01:10 PM   #35
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1969 25' Tradewind
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Dan, referring to your post #37 (The link provided by dpe01) I do not find a member with that designation nor any reference to a supplier. Can you supply the link directly?
Thanks, and very good work,
Steve
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Old 08-17-2013, 05:52 PM   #36
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GB

I cannot provide a link directly to the source because they change quite often. If you go to ebay and just type in "36 smd led light" you will find a source for 36 smd light pads for $2.99 ea plus shipping. These lights are shipped from China and it takes 3-4 weeks to receive. I have placed 3 orders over the last 2 years and not had any problems.

Dan
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:31 PM   #37
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1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg , Virginia
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Bathroom Vanity and Plumbing Fixtures

I want to remove the plumbing fixtures from the bathroom vanity and refinish the vanity itself and then install new fixtures. Does anybody know if the vanity top can be removed or do I have to do all the work from the access area at the bottom of the vanity (see photos)?

Thanks, Dan
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Old 08-18-2013, 07:23 PM   #38
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Removing the Shower Faucet

I could not see any way to remove the vanity top, so I removed the shower faucet from the front. To my surprise, it was really quite simple because the faucet body was plastic. I used my vibrating saw and it worked quite well.

The faucet looks like it is original. I find that amazing that they used a plastic body faucet in 1966. I think it is original because it does not appear that any of the plumbing feeding the faucet has been removed or modified.

Next to remove is the vanity faucet. It is all metal.

Dan
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:41 PM   #39
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Removing the vanity faucet

Removing the metal vanity faucet was a b*****. Afer I got the copper plumbing lines removed, I figured it would be easy to remove the nut holding the faucet in (photo 1). I was wrong. I tried everything. First it takes an 1 1/8 deep well six sided socket to fit the faucet nut. I could not get it to budge even after soaking it with pb blaster and then using an impact wench. I finally used a long 1/2 breaker bar which finally broke it loose, not the nut but it twisted the valve body loose from the faucet body. I then took my trusty recipro saw and sawed off the top of the brass body. This did the trick.

Dan
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Old 08-31-2013, 08:45 AM   #40
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Removing the vanity drain

The vanity drain is not a typical bathroom drain, but is actually a standard 2" bar sink drain. I bought a new "commercial" drain at Lowes that has the same basket/sink strainer as the original kitchen sink.

Removing the old drain turned out to be quite easy if you have the correct tools. You need a basin wrench to hold the 2 1/4" nut underneath the vanity and then I used an automotive tool, designed to rotate the emergency brake piston, to loosen the chrome drain from the top. I expected it to be tight as it had not been loosened in 47 years, but it was easy to remove. See the photos below.

Now I can clean, bondo imperfections, sand and prepare the vanity for applying the Porv white coat.

Dan
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Old 08-31-2013, 11:10 AM   #41
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We generally boondock so I like to monitor utilities. We have a "battery minder" to keep track of battery voltage, so why not a water meter to keep track of how much water we have used and have left in the tank.

I bought a water meter, probably overkill but I could not find a cheaper more accurate way to measure water consumption. Cost was under $70 including shipping and I got it from www.watermeters.com. I installed it just after the water pump. I can read it after I pull down the back of the front gaucho. It was a very easy install.

Dan
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:11 PM   #42
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1966 24' Tradewind
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Toilet Console Repair

The toilet console originally had a 4x12 vent in the front and a slot for the flush lever for the original toilet. I replaced the toilet with a Curve porta potty (posts 23-32), so the slot is no longer needed. I wanted to fill in the vent because the batteries are in the area behind the console. I had some fiberglass pieces left over from making the hole in the top of the console larger to accommodate the Curve toilet. I cut these to size and used gorilla glue to secure them to the back of the console to patch the holes (photo 2). I used auto body putty (bondo) to fill in the 1/8" space (photo 3). I used sheet metal screws to hold the patches in place and then removed them and filled the holes with bondo after the glue was hard. I then primed the patches and painted the front of the console white (finally got rid of the 60's and 70's harvest gold (photo 4).

I still need to install the trim at the bottom.

Dan
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