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ttbikes · 02-01-2018, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slats

I'm getting ready to reinstall the elongated front vent frame and my new lexan cover from VTS. Of course, I am missing one of the Hehr lifters. I've done a cursory search for one, but not much luck. Nothing on VTS and scattered old postings for used ones. Anyone here know of a source? Aftermarket replacements?

Things pop up at Silver Trailer Supply. It is always good to check there however, they are in some sort of transition right now. I will look around my shed next time I am out that way. I took out some Hehr vents when I put in Fantastic Fans. The problem will be how worn they are.

dbj216 · 02-01-2018, 07:49 PM

I never did get one of the four Herr two stage helical lifters to totally free up. I believe it was 1969 that Airstream switched to the more traditional "ball screw and nut" type lifters. Yes, you have to crank and crank to get them up, but they are more reliable. They kinda work like a C clamp in reverse.

There would be a lot of messing around to update to the later design, but I bet it could be done by you guys if there is no alternative.

David

Slats · 02-02-2018, 07:41 AM

Well, I found the other Hehr lifter in my disorganized collection of removed parts. As you can see, it needs a little rehabbing. Any suggestions on how to reattach the top tab? I'm thinking of a little spot weld, but don't know if it can take the heat.

I also set the front astrodome in place after cleaning up the frame and the perimeter of the opening for it.

Lastly, for the fun of it, I'm attaching a pic of my shop art wall, with my Einstein on a bike and watermelon clock from my old office.

Bubba L · 02-02-2018, 10:53 AM

I think the lifters were originally peened to prevent the shaft and top tab from spinning. I’ve Seen some that were drilled/tapped with a 6 or 8/32 screw with locktite. Some spun, some didn’t. A spot weld would be great, but don’t know if the alloy would take it. If you find a method that works well, let us know. Good luck. Bubba

dbj216 · 02-02-2018, 06:59 PM

I agree it looks like the bracket was peened or swaged to the shaft. I can't remember if the Herr lifter inner shaft was solid or a hollow tube. What does it look like when you fully extend it on its helix grooves. If it is hollow like a telescope, you might be able to drill it and rig a small fastener with a washer in there. It it is solid, you might be able to drill and tap for a small fastener.

David

Slats · 02-05-2018, 07:41 AM

Dave -

Took your advice. Drilled into what turned out to be solid, but soft, alloy and used self-taping screw. Works great.

ALANSD · 02-05-2018, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slats

Thanks, Dan. Enjoy the outdoors.

By the way, I need to replace my rusted window glass clips. I've seen posts where folks recommend a good WD-40 soaking to get them off. Another penetrating oil, Kriol, was also mentioned, but the web site for that product says they don't sell to consumers, only businesses. Also, when installing the new clips, what's the best way to make sure they stay put? Silicone? Double-sided tape?

i put 3m trim cement in the window clips,then stuck them on and tightened with
a plier

dbj216 · 02-05-2018, 06:29 PM

Maybe the Herr helical lifter are zinc diecast, or what we used to call "pot metal". It's low cost and works well in many applications.

I always liked the action of the Herr vent lifters. The vents opened quickly. I think better than the "ball screw" crank, crank, and crank some more to lift the vent all the way.

I'm glad you could keep them in your classic Trade Wind.

David

Slats · 02-07-2018, 02:37 PM

It's always something. Now that I have my VTS lexan dome for the front skylight and I'm ready to rivet it to the Hehr hinge, I realize I have a 3/8" gap between the hinge and the outer edge of the frame and inside lip of the dome. So I'm thinking I'll get a piece of 3/8" lexan for a shim and proceed.

I now wish I would not have busted up and tossed the old dome. I'd like to see how it was attached at each end. Anyone know? Pics?

Should I put some foam rubber weather strip on top of the frame to get a good air/moisture seal between the frame and the dome? I saw some such on Inland RV's web page, but it just looks like the stuff you can get at any hardware store.

Slats · 02-24-2018, 05:49 PM

Learned the hard way that the the Hehr lifters get riveted to the top, not the sides, of the dome. But the mistakenly-drilled holes in the side were easily filled with rivets, so no harm done. Especially if you turn the dome so that the faux rivets face the rear and are thus invisible from the front.

Getting the Hehr lifters unstuck simply involved a little WD-40 and a minimal amount of patience. They now work great.

When the whole contraption was reassembled and set in place, I put 1/2 " foam weather stripping on top of the frame, which made a perfect seal when I lowered the dome onto it.

After I secured the skylight frame to the shell with clecos, I drilled out the five rivets holding the curbside longitudinal rib next to it in place in order to remove the rib and free up room for my bucking bar, then riveted the skylight frame to the shell and reinstalled the rib. Because it was late in the day and I was tired, I didn't take a pic of the finished riveting job, only a bleary one of the clecos preceding it.

ttbikes · 02-25-2018, 07:12 AM

Nice work!

TouringDan · 02-25-2018, 08:40 AM

Nice work on the Hehr vents and thanks for all the photos. I need to repair one or two of my Hehr lift operators and find a replacement cap for one of my vents. I want to keep my three vents original.

Dan

ALANSD · 03-03-2018, 03:41 PM

I had to give up on my hehrlifters for the front astrodome. I put in a new inland rv cover and the lifters are not a great fit still. But it sure looks nice.

Slats · 03-03-2018, 08:01 PM

Today was the day to replace all the compartment cover gaskets, the screen door weatherstrip and the door gasket. For some odd reason, I had never noticed that the door is cockeyed until I went to replace the gasket. The hinge was obviously removed at some time in the past and put back on with pop rivets. Over time, the door migrated to the right, so that there is an unhealthy gap between the door frame and the door in the upper left corner and a corresponding lack of any gap on the right side, with matching problems at the bottom, per the below pics.

I am thinking I will drill all the pop rivets out except for the bottom one, swivel the hinge and door a smidge to the left and then re-rivet it to the shell and door frame with buck rivets. But I fear that the rivet holes will have too much slop, leaving me with the same problem. What do folks think about stick welding the old door frame rivet holes shut and re-drilling new ones?

I'm open to any and all suggestions.

goransons · 03-03-2018, 10:40 PM

The minute you put heat to the door skin it will warp like nothing you've ever seen! Are you sure the hinge pin hasn't worn into the cast hinge enough to cause the issue? If you do have to remove the door and move it over, why not redrill, but add an extra rivet in each area of the hinge into a fresh hole to keep things keyed in. You can always flush rivet in a backer plate inside the door so you get some fresh meat that way too.

Slats · 03-04-2018, 12:48 AM

Thanks for the insightful feedback.

I don't think it is a hinge pin wear problem, as there doesn't seem to be enough play in the hinge to account for the ill fit of the door in the frame. But I dunno, maybe it doesn't take much play to translate into the gap I'm seeing. If it is a wear problem, does that mean replacing the hinge?

If it's not the hinge, the idea of moving it and drilling new holes through it and frame sounds like the way to go.

By the way, I've been following your restoration thread with great interest and admiration.

dbj216 · 03-04-2018, 07:05 PM

My Trade Wind hinge was quite worn. I might have had 3/8" movement when lifting the door from the bottom right corner. My door was also a bit bent and not fitting just perfectly. Still is as far as I know. I never restored the hinge.

The door frame is cast aluminum on these trailers. I like the idea of a backer plate for riveting. I've also used the next size up rivet to accommodate an oversized hole.

I think it was Aerowood in his thread who removed and disassembled the hinge, and then line bored the hinge pin hole some .010 oversized, and then made a new, slightly bigger hinge pin. The door hinge on these trailers is a massive thing of beauty. My 75 Overlander has the standard two hinge arrangement. I'm not sure what year the big single hinge went away.

David

Slats · 03-05-2018, 06:45 AM

Two hinges make sense.

One massive one, though a thing of beauty, recalls to mind the quintessential rub between architects and the engineers and contractors tasked with grounding their flights of fancy. Da Vinci may have had a knack for blending art and science, but he also started a lot of stuff he never finished.

So, its off to the hardware store for this disciple of function over form.

dbj216 · 03-05-2018, 06:53 PM

Good plan. I'll take function over beauty any day of the week. In fact my wife says I have no right side of the brain activity at all. No appreciation of artistic endeavors at all. Oh well, someone one has to paint the house while other artistic folks paint pictures.

David

rmkrum · 03-05-2018, 09:39 PM

Our division of labor is DW does the design stuff, and I do the engineer and build part. I have long been aware that this is the best way to build and decorate our homes, and I’m sure it extends to Airstreams.

In our rather long marriage, this include building two homes starting with paper (I do the AutoCad computer stuff) to building and decorating. The current owners of these are absolutely infatuated with them. Not bad for a housewife/registered nurse, and a Computer-engineering type[emoji3]

As I’ve often said, I’m not an architect, nor do I play one on Television, but DW is inherently artistic, and the two of us together are quite good at designing homes...as long as I run the computer[emoji3]