Dale and Terry get a '66 Tradewind

[Jeremy9107]

Enjoying your thread and curious to see how your interior renovation pans out.

[Slats]

Glad you're enjoying it. I sometimes think the title to this thread should be retitled "A Keystone Cop's Ongoing Adventure in Attempting to Rebuild an Airstream".

Anyway, I abandoned the idea of screwing in the tail lght assemblies and riveted them back in. One thing I learned was to be careful - in drilling out the old rivet fragments - to not drill all the way through the other side. I of course learned what not to do by doing it. But it was on a lower corner, where it less noticeable to the critical eye and a little aluminum in a tube can make it nearly invisible to one with poor vision, i.e., most Airstreamers of my age. Another thing I learned was that it was mostly unnecessary to take the assemblies off in the first place, although it seemed like a good idea at the time. The last thing I learned is that the folks at the Airstream factory, at least in 1966, were sometimes a tad sloppy and prone to cut a few corners, things that were exposed beneath the removed tail light assemblies.

Having three successive days of temperate weather allowed me to finish getting the new window gaskets in, the tail light assemblies on and the recently rebuilt rock guard back in place. I still used my new Home Depot kerosene heater to keep it toasty inside the Tradewind, though, and anticipate I will be able to devote time to waterproofing, insulation and other interior projects that precede reinstalling the interior walls. We'll see.

Recent progress pics:

[dbj216]

Hi Slats: Watch out for some of us old codgers who have had cataract surgery and new super lenses installed. Easy peasy. I see better now than I have in 70 years. The best health care dollars I ever spent.

I might spot that little hole in the tail light fixture. But I wouldn't say anything as I would just figure Airstream drilled it too deep some 50 years ago. I have found things in my Overlander that make me wonder if someone was going too fast.

More progress made on your Trade Wind.

David

[ttbikes]

Looking good!

Originally Posted by Slats

Glad you're enjoying it. I sometimes think the title to this thread should be retitled "A Keystone Cop's Ongoing Adventure in Attempting to Rebuild an Airstream".

Anyway, I abandoned the idea of screwing in the tail lght assemblies and riveted them back in. One thing I learned was to be careful - in drilling out the old rivet fragments - to not drill all the way through the other side. I of course learned what not to do by doing it. But it was on a lower corner, where it less noticeable to the critical eye and a little aluminum in a tube can make it nearly invisible to one with poor vision, i.e., most Airstreamers of my age. Another thing I learned was that it was mostly unnecessary to take the assemblies off in the first place, although it seemed like a good idea at the time. The last thing I learned is that the folks at the Airstream factory, at least in 1966, were sometimes a tad sloppy and prone to cut a few corners, things that were exposed beneath the removed tail light assemblies.

Having three successive days of temperate weather allowed me to finish getting the new window gaskets in, the tail light assemblies on and the recently rebuilt rock guard back in place. I still used my new Home Depot kerosene heater to keep it toasty inside the Tradewind, though, and anticipate I will be able to devote time to waterproofing, insulation and other interior projects that precede reinstalling the interior walls. We'll see.

Recent progress pics:

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by ttbikes

Looking good!

Slats

Very nice work that you are doing.

You are fortunate to have the insulated (and so very clean) enclosed space to work on your Airstream. It just snowed 3” here. Glad that I have a kitchen pass to go to Florida next week for some kayaking and tent camping.

Dan

[Slats]

Thanks, Dan. Enjoy the outdoors.

By the way, I need to replace my rusted window glass clips. I've seen posts where folks recommend a good WD-40 soaking to get them off. Another penetrating oil, Kriol, was also mentioned, but the web site for that product says they don't sell to consumers, only businesses. Also, when installing the new clips, what's the best way to make sure they stay put? Silicone? Double-sided tape?

[Bubba L]

Slats, you can order Kano Kroil oil on Amazon. the Kano is the best. On our 66 I placed a couple of drops on the clip and the next day gently tapped the clip to break loose the rust. Don’t remember whether I used structural silicone or parbond. I would think “structural” silicone would suffice. The Kroil is great on any stuck metal parts. Good luck, Bubba

[ALUMINUMINUM]

Did someone mention codgers?? What I saw in the first image of post #162 was a poultry feeder, and wondered “why's he feeding chickens in his Airstream?”. Click click, Oh, it's a kerosene heater.


I've been a student of the Philips Corning windows since 2010. What's remarkable about the 1966 type I, is how securely the glass is siliconed into the single extrusion glass-bar/head-rail. The '67/'68 glass is adhered with foam tape into a two-piece clamp-bar. The foam deteriorates and the glass falls out.


I've read that the original chemically tempered are not as strong as the heat tempered, thicker, “replacement glass” available today. The edges of the Chemically Tempered glass are its Achilles Heel.. Which may be one of the reasons why they were eventually edged in stainless. In the Olden Days, the 1966 Factory Replacement glass came with a glass bar already glued on. I'm thinking that Philips Corning evolved versions II and III to address replacement glass issues. All three years used the same glass with the Philips Corning Chemically Tempered BUGS displayed lower left.


They're frail, silly mechanisms, but the flush exterior fit is aesthetically unequaled. Very smooth look.


If you soak, tap, and gently wriggle for a few days, hours, minutes, the clips slide off. The glass can shatter if you pry on its edge with a screwdriver. At one time there were three differently sized clips being sold to fit; bare glass original, replacement glass, stainless edged glass. Can be spring steel, or stainless.


I didn't buy new clips, I cleaned, prepped, and painted the originals. “Good enough for who it's for”...
I bought a couple VTS window closure mechanisms and used their guts to rebuild the originals because I didn't like the VTS logo on the shiny new ones. My original covers are stainless steel with a Philips Corning stamp. I used my original cranks too because the VTS winder knobs don't match originals.


Microblinds fit between the glass and screen.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454...nt-111812.html


It's a fun and rewarding hobby, eh?

-

[Slats]

Thanks for that tip on the difference between 1966 windows and the others. I will rest easier with that knowledge.

My clips were just too rusty and pitted to clean up to an acceptable level. Or maybe I'm just mildly anal retentive. Whatever, I bought a few new stainless steel clips from VTS just to experiment. The experiment went well, so now I'll order the rest.

I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to remove the old rusty clips. I just hit them with WD-40 and removed them 15 minutes later by gripping the perpendicular extrusions with channel locks and gently rocking them back and forth (well, maybe up and down a bit as well). Too late to cancel the Kano Kroil order from Amazon, but I'm sure I'll find a use for it when it comes. I did find myself thinking that the PB Blaster sitting on my shelf would also have sufficed.

As for installing the new clips, because I had read complaints here about them being too wide for the glass, I just put the bottom 1/8 " or so in a vise and gave them a good squeeze while sticking a wide-bladed screw driver down into the top to keep it from squeezing shut. They wound up being a great fit. I was careful to squeeze, remove to check fit, squeeze again, remove again to check fit, etc., in order not to ruin them with the initial squeeze. Here's a shot of one window with its new gasket and clips and a close-up of a clip.

[dbj216]

Looks great. I just left the old rusty, pitted and crummy ones on my trailer. I didn't know how to get them off (I do now) and I was concerned I would break the window glass. They remind me of how the whole trailer looked when I started. I guess I need to be a little fussier.

David

[Slats]

It got up to 65 degrees today in Pleasant Hill and I made some headway on removing the old rear vent/fan and setting the new one in place. What's the best caulk to seal this when I tighten it down? Trempro 635?

[rasmuw]

Originally Posted by Slats

It got up to 65 degrees today in Pleasant Hill and I made some headway on removing the old rear vent/fan and setting the new one in place. What's the best caulk to seal this when I tighten it down? Trempro 635?

I used silicone, but I'm not saying it's the best. I've got some small leaks now from the screw heads. I was a little stingy with the silicone on top.

You must use the gasket for Fan-Tastic fans. Somewhere on the Air Forum you will find advice to seal the base directly to the aluminum. I did that and every plastic base cracked, I believe due to the different expansion coefficients of the plastic and aluminum. Three new fans later and three gaskets, and the plastic is still in good shape.

[Dingo Girl]

Originally Posted by dbj216

Looks great. I just left the old rusty, pitted and crummy ones on my trailer. I didn't know how to get them off (I do now) and I was concerned I would break the window glass. They remind me of how the whole trailer looked when I started. I guess I need to be a little fussier.

David

David I left mine too. Except for the 2 windows I replaced. Scared ill break the glass trying to get the clips off.

[dbj216]

I'd seal them with Sikaflex (sp). There is a recommended sealant thread in these Forums that describes the types of sealants and the best application.

Here is a link to it:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...ry-116214.html

Stay up all night and study it. There may be a quiz on sealants tomorrow.

David

[ttbikes]

Originally Posted by dbj216

I'd seal them with Sikaflex (sp). There is a recommended sealant thread in these Forums that describes the types of sealants and the best application.

Here is a link to it:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...ry-116214.html

Stay up all night and study it. There may be a quiz on sealants tomorrow.

David

I agree here. This is a good tread on sealants. Try to stay away for silicone on aluminum.

[Slats]

When I installed my new fan/vent, I noticed the curbside side did not set as flush with the top of the trailer as the street side side. That is because when the trailer was manufactured, they cut the opening for the original vent off center. See the picture from post #171 above, showing the fan/vent from underneath, which shows it closer to the rib on the left than to the rib on the right. Must have been a Friday. Or is there some esotoric reason beyond my ken as to why this would be?

[rmkrum]

I'd bet on Friday, or a sloppy measuring job, or sloppy cutting...or all three...

[Dingo Girl]

If I'm going to screw something up it will be on a Monday. Fridays are great!

[Slats]

I'm getting ready to reinstall the elongated front vent frame and my new lexan cover from VTS. Of course, I am missing one of the Hehr lifters. I've done a cursory search for one, but not much luck. Nothing on VTS and scattered old postings for used ones. Anyone here know of a source? Aftermarket replacements?

[Bubba L]

The original Hehr Ledoux lifters are hard to find. Inland Rv do carry those, but pricey. Colin Hyde discusses those on the latest broadcast of the VAP. He was saying that the replacements take a lot of handle turns to move the lid. Maybe best bet is Classifieds or EBay. Good luck. Bubba