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Old 04-17-2018, 10:03 PM   #225
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1968 24' Tradewind
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Good news! Itís a relief when things fit back together as planned.
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Old 04-19-2018, 10:08 AM   #226
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Refectix begins

Spent yesterday (a short one) caulking every last possible entry point for water on the front section of the trailer. Even ran beads alongside and at the top and bottom of the ribs, as well as on the rivet teats attaching the ribs to the shell, then blasted the entire front section with water to check for leaks. None appeared, so began installing the Reflectix. Any day that yields tangible results of labor is a good one. I like proceeding from front to back in sections.
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Old 04-19-2018, 08:16 PM   #227
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Well, your scare light is ready for space travel. It isn't going anywhere. And good job testing the front clip for leaks after you have it all sealed up. If it were my lower interior skins, they would not line up well at all. Some guys have all the luck.

It's fun watching it come together again.

David
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Old 04-20-2018, 03:20 PM   #228
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Here's a recent pic of the exterior.
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Old 04-20-2018, 07:31 PM   #229
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What A/c unit to get

I've been looking at the Coleman Mach 8 and wondering whether I should get the 15,000 or 13,500 BTU version. Some say the 13,500 is preferable because a generator can power it, whereas others say it is not sufficient to properly cool the trailer. What do the folks here with Tradewinds think? What about other makes?
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Old 04-20-2018, 07:55 PM   #230
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I think the 13.5 is very adequate. You have new insulation. Our AC units don't run on max power all the time. It is true that Airstreams are very good conductors of heat. The exterior skins get hot. I've measured 130 degrees on them in Colorado at 8000 feet. Makes it tough for an AC to keep up. The trailer's awnings do help quite a bit. And you could paint the roof white like they do the new trailers to help reduce the heat load from the sun.

David
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Old 04-22-2018, 09:32 AM   #231
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Old 04-22-2018, 02:54 PM   #232
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..... a dubious leader.
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Old 04-23-2018, 08:18 AM   #233
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I've been looking at the Coleman Mach 8 and wondering whether I should get the 15,000 or 13,500 BTU version. Some say the 13,500 is preferable because a generator can power it, whereas others say it is not sufficient to properly cool the trailer. What do the folks here with Tradewinds think? What about other makes?
I put in a low profile Dometic 13.5. 95% time it is fine. For the other 5% I am covering windows. Much of the time it is to cold and hard to get temp just right. It is always to loud. We find that shady spots really help and that we also don't use it as much as I thought we would. On the other hand, when you need to get cool it is great to have. My RV guy talked me out of a 15,000. He said it took to much power and was more than I needed. I have heard that the Coleman is not as loud but I can't verify that. One thing to consider is being to cold. It is often to cold for my wife. These air condition can be hard to regulate and are not as refined as your house unit. I believe that awnings would be a great help in regulating the tempiture but I have not installed mine so I can't say for sure. No easy answers on this one.
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Old 04-25-2018, 07:19 PM   #234
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starting on interior wall panels

Got the Roxul in and riveted the lower section of the front wall in place.

Although the rivet holes on the ribs and the wall section had lined up perfectly when I set the wall in place prior to installing the Roxul, that was not the case after installing the Roxul, which was a little puffy (I guess I could have sliced the bats into 1" thick slabs instead of 1 1/2" ones, but to hell with that now). Anyway, I found I had to put holder rivets on each side of the front window and then start the bottom rivets with one in the middle of the c channel, spacing those rivets closer together than the originals in order draw the panel in tight, thereby getting the ends of the panels to match up with the ribs.

Because I'm procrastinating on running the wiring (and waiting on a friend to help move that part forward), I'm just going to insulate and re-rivet the lower sections of the interior walls and then tackle the wiring, followed by installation of the upper/ceiling sections. Anyone want to shoot that plan down?
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Old 04-25-2018, 07:35 PM   #235
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Not me...

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Old 04-25-2018, 09:42 PM   #236
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Way to get after it Dale. Iíd be hesitant to install walls until I have a pretty good idea where the wires will run. Fishing wire between insulation and the lower wall is going be slow. Your call but Iíd work on another item while your electrician friend figures out the wiring plan. For whatís its worth, here is a picture of my lower wall wiring. Yours will likely differ but note all the horizontal lower wall runs.

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Old 04-25-2018, 11:35 PM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slats View Post
I've been looking at the Coleman Mach 8 and wondering whether I should get the 15,000 or 13,500 BTU version. Some say the 13,500 is preferable because a generator can power it, whereas others say it is not sufficient to properly cool the trailer. What do the folks here with Tradewinds think? What about other makes?


Slats

I have heard that the Coleman Mach 8 is quiet. Quiet is good. I would get to the 13.5. On a real hot day, just donít cool the bathroom if the A/C canít keep up.

Dan
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Old 04-26-2018, 07:07 PM   #238
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We have a Coleman Mach, but too old for a number. It isn't quiet. It is a 13.5 btu unit. It has been reliable. We are traveling in bloody hot weather now, like low 90s; but the humidity is quite low here in the desert southwest. The unit won't keep up. It cools the trailer maybe 10 degrees. The sun load is too great. The trailer has like 130 degree skin temps by my infrared. When the sun goes down, it will cool the trailer from 85 to 70.

That said, I believe a 13.5 btu unit would work well in your Trade Wind. It has better insulation than most and it is a smaller unit than our 34'. That famous Kansas City humidity might be a challenge.

David
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