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Old 01-01-2018, 07:33 PM   #155
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2007 22' International CCD
Corona , California
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Yup I’m a bit paranoid about getting hurt. Eye protection is so darn important. Used to work in electronic manufacturing—was the safety officer, and had a lovely collection of safety glasses with big solder splashes stuck to them and bits of flying lead cutoffs causing scratches right in front of eyes in the lenses.

Safety is a good habit to enforce.
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'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
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Old 01-07-2018, 03:37 PM   #156
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1966 24' Tradewind
Kansas City , Missouri
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tail lights

Yesterday I drilled out the rivets holding my tail lights to the shell. I'm going to clean them up and remount them, adding caulk and/or gaskets around the perimeter in the process. One of the rivets did not to be drilled out, as it had come loose and was on the verge of just falling out. It seemed odd to me that the tail lights were mounted with rivets going into dead end holes anyway. I'm thinking of replacing the rivets with #8 x 3/8 stainless steel sheet metal screws, as shown below. Pros? Cons?
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Old 01-07-2018, 05:35 PM   #157
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
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It makes sense to screw the tail light assembly to the shell. A guy needs easy access from time to time. My 86 Limited tail lights are screwed to the shell. I let them get loose (new gasket compression?) and one side started to leak. My lesson was to check the screws now and then to ensure they stay tight.

My 66 tail lights are screwed to the shell with a rubber gasket in between. I think it is a common practice.

David
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Old 01-07-2018, 06:36 PM   #158
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1966 24' Tradewind
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But the screws will be inaccessible once the interior walls are back in. So I intend to put lock washers on them, torque them pretty tight and, for good measure, cover them with Trempro. I figure no one is going to need to get them off for another 50 years and, if they do, they should feel free to curse me in my grave.
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Old 01-07-2018, 07:23 PM   #159
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1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
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Slats, I’m considering using nutserts for 8 or 6-32 stainless screws. This way I can remove the assembly in the future if needed. On the rear of the 55 I overlapped the skin through the tail light areas. I’m hoping that’s not too thick for the nutsert. I have the stuff, just need to try it on scrap first. Aerowood knows a lot more about those than I do. Good luck. Bubba
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Old 01-08-2018, 05:28 PM   #160
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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If someone curses you in the grave, haunt their house. You can flap those angle wings and rub your halo and make a tree fall on their tow vehicle. That'll show 'em.

David
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Old 01-09-2018, 10:57 PM   #161
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Enjoying your thread and curious to see how your interior renovation pans out.
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Old 01-11-2018, 01:29 PM   #162
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1966 24' Tradewind
Kansas City , Missouri
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Glad you're enjoying it. I sometimes think the title to this thread should be retitled "A Keystone Cop's Ongoing Adventure in Attempting to Rebuild an Airstream".

Anyway, I abandoned the idea of screwing in the tail lght assemblies and riveted them back in. One thing I learned was to be careful - in drilling out the old rivet fragments - to not drill all the way through the other side. I of course learned what not to do by doing it. But it was on a lower corner, where it less noticeable to the critical eye and a little aluminum in a tube can make it nearly invisible to one with poor vision, i.e., most Airstreamers of my age. Another thing I learned was that it was mostly unnecessary to take the assemblies off in the first place, although it seemed like a good idea at the time. The last thing I learned is that the folks at the Airstream factory, at least in 1966, were sometimes a tad sloppy and prone to cut a few corners, things that were exposed beneath the removed tail light assemblies.

Having three successive days of temperate weather allowed me to finish getting the new window gaskets in, the tail light assemblies on and the recently rebuilt rock guard back in place. I still used my new Home Depot kerosene heater to keep it toasty inside the Tradewind, though, and anticipate I will be able to devote time to waterproofing, insulation and other interior projects that precede reinstalling the interior walls. We'll see.

Recent progress pics:
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Old 01-11-2018, 06:32 PM   #163
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Hi Slats: Watch out for some of us old codgers who have had cataract surgery and new super lenses installed. Easy peasy. I see better now than I have in 70 years. The best health care dollars I ever spent.

I might spot that little hole in the tail light fixture. But I wouldn't say anything as I would just figure Airstream drilled it too deep some 50 years ago. I have found things in my Overlander that make me wonder if someone was going too fast.

More progress made on your Trade Wind.

David
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Old 01-13-2018, 10:04 AM   #164
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1964 24' Tradewind
Lawrence , Kansas
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Looking good!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slats View Post
Glad you're enjoying it. I sometimes think the title to this thread should be retitled "A Keystone Cop's Ongoing Adventure in Attempting to Rebuild an Airstream".

Anyway, I abandoned the idea of screwing in the tail lght assemblies and riveted them back in. One thing I learned was to be careful - in drilling out the old rivet fragments - to not drill all the way through the other side. I of course learned what not to do by doing it. But it was on a lower corner, where it less noticeable to the critical eye and a little aluminum in a tube can make it nearly invisible to one with poor vision, i.e., most Airstreamers of my age. Another thing I learned was that it was mostly unnecessary to take the assemblies off in the first place, although it seemed like a good idea at the time. The last thing I learned is that the folks at the Airstream factory, at least in 1966, were sometimes a tad sloppy and prone to cut a few corners, things that were exposed beneath the removed tail light assemblies.

Having three successive days of temperate weather allowed me to finish getting the new window gaskets in, the tail light assemblies on and the recently rebuilt rock guard back in place. I still used my new Home Depot kerosene heater to keep it toasty inside the Tradewind, though, and anticipate I will be able to devote time to waterproofing, insulation and other interior projects that precede reinstalling the interior walls. We'll see.

Recent progress pics:
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Old 01-17-2018, 02:33 PM   #165
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Looking good!


Slats

Very nice work that you are doing.

You are fortunate to have the insulated (and so very clean) enclosed space to work on your Airstream. It just snowed 3” here. Glad that I have a kitchen pass to go to Florida next week for some kayaking and tent camping.

Dan
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Old 01-17-2018, 06:43 PM   #166
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1966 24' Tradewind
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Thanks, Dan. Enjoy the outdoors.

By the way, I need to replace my rusted window glass clips. I've seen posts where folks recommend a good WD-40 soaking to get them off. Another penetrating oil, Kriol, was also mentioned, but the web site for that product says they don't sell to consumers, only businesses. Also, when installing the new clips, what's the best way to make sure they stay put? Silicone? Double-sided tape?
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Old 01-17-2018, 07:08 PM   #167
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Slats, you can order Kano Kroil oil on Amazon. the Kano is the best. On our 66 I placed a couple of drops on the clip and the next day gently tapped the clip to break loose the rust. Don’t remember whether I used structural silicone or parbond. I would think “structural” silicone would suffice. The Kroil is great on any stuck metal parts. Good luck, Bubba
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Old 01-18-2018, 10:41 PM   #168
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Did someone mention codgers?? What I saw in the first image of post #162 was a poultry feeder, and wondered “why's he feeding chickens in his Airstream?”. Click click, Oh, it's a kerosene heater.


I've been a student of the Philips Corning windows since 2010. What's remarkable about the 1966 type I, is how securely the glass is siliconed into the single extrusion glass-bar/head-rail. The '67/'68 glass is adhered with foam tape into a two-piece clamp-bar. The foam deteriorates and the glass falls out.


I've read that the original chemically tempered are not as strong as the heat tempered, thicker, “replacement glass” available today. The edges of the Chemically Tempered glass are its Achilles Heel.. Which may be one of the reasons why they were eventually edged in stainless. In the Olden Days, the 1966 Factory Replacement glass came with a glass bar already glued on. I'm thinking that Philips Corning evolved versions II and III to address replacement glass issues. All three years used the same glass with the Philips Corning Chemically Tempered BUGS displayed lower left.


They're frail, silly mechanisms, but the flush exterior fit is aesthetically unequaled. Very smooth look.


If you soak, tap, and gently wriggle for a few days, hours, minutes, the clips slide off. The glass can shatter if you pry on its edge with a screwdriver. At one time there were three differently sized clips being sold to fit; bare glass original, replacement glass, stainless edged glass. Can be spring steel, or stainless.


I didn't buy new clips, I cleaned, prepped, and painted the originals. “Good enough for who it's for”...
I bought a couple VTS window closure mechanisms and used their guts to rebuild the originals because I didn't like the VTS logo on the shiny new ones. My original covers are stainless steel with a Philips Corning stamp. I used my original cranks too because the VTS winder knobs don't match originals.


Microblinds fit between the glass and screen.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f454...nt-111812.html


It's a fun and rewarding hobby, eh?

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