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Old 06-16-2019, 07:31 AM   #321
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Atomic: You are using so many "advanced" processes and techniques in your Trade Wind. The bath vanity top is stunning. The dinette table is unique. I thought the bubbles may add an interesting feature to admire while eating Cheerios in the morning. And the gaucho bed supports are excellent. You have strength there to sit on the side of the bed and ponder the day's activities. I used simple red oak on the son's pull out bed for the support legs. It is not near as nice as yours, but works goot enuf.

You do great work.

David
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Old 06-16-2019, 02:27 PM   #322
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Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

Dale - it was a pleasure meeting Terry and always nice to talking trailers with you.

David, you are too modest regarding your work. Though, I appreciate your comments and support. I’d like to give credit to my father and grandfather (who turns 102 this November). They taught me much of what I know regarding these skills.

Happy Father’s Day to them and all of the “dads” on our forum.

Here is the vanity top after four coats of Waterlox. You’ll note I saved and have been finishing a half-round from the sink cutout for a matching toilet paper holder. [emoji4]

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Old 06-16-2019, 06:25 PM   #323
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A matching toilet paper holder almost sounds anal retentive. Butt I dunno.
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Old 06-16-2019, 07:17 PM   #324
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Being anal retentive in the bathroom is a health issue. Get the exlax. David
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Old 06-16-2019, 09:14 PM   #325
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Crappy jokes, fellas. Fitting for dad’s day.
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Old 06-16-2019, 10:02 PM   #326
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I haven't mentioned it in awhile Atomic, but nice freaking work.

Gorgeous.
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Old 06-17-2019, 03:57 PM   #327
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Hi. Been following your rebuild since the beginning and really great to see it in the “final” stretch now.

I’m rebuilding a ‘69 Tradewind (its off the frame as we speak) and your blog has provided a lot of encouragement and motivation. Just wanted to say - incredible job and thank you for sharing your journey.
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Old 06-17-2019, 06:44 PM   #328
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Greetings from Colorado and welcome to Airstream Forums. Atomic and several others have shared their projects gaining some solutions to problems and offering nifty approaches to new designs. There is a lot to learn from Atomic's thread.

My son has a 69 Globetrotter 21', two model sizes smaller than your Trade Wind. 69 was the first year of the new body style, and some say the beginning of the "lightweight" construction techniques used during the 70s. There seems to be more problems with the 70s trailers than other vintages. I think some of it is due to the lightweight construction and desire to lower tongue weights. I think the mid sixties trailers are some of the more desirable vintage Airstreams.

Sounds like your trailer is in major pieces. You might want to start a thread (blog) in the Airstream Knowledgebase and post some pictures of the demolition and problems found on your trailer. Then you can document all the fun you will have putting the thing back together.

David
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Old 06-18-2019, 12:24 PM   #329
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Thanks, J. Morgan!

MiTWind69, glad to know the thread has been helpful. I've followed along/read several others who have done the same and found them informative and inspiring. Good luck on your 69 TW. Don't forget it's a marathon not a sprint and the renovation should be as much fun as using the trailer when it's done. I'd echo David's suggestion to invest the time documenting your progress here on the forums. You'll receive advice and can also share your good ideas with others.
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Old 06-19-2019, 08:08 AM   #330
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Atomic_13/ dbj216,
I will give your suggestions serious consideration. Bought the ‘69 in 2016 and progress has been in fits & starts. Think I’m at a point where there should be consistent progress.

Can’t wait to see the next installment of your renovation!
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Old 06-19-2019, 09:29 AM   #331
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Fits & Starts! What a great title for an Airstream rehab book!


Drag your Tradewind down from Kalamazoo to KC's Roasterie Coffee plant this fall to see Atomic_13's progress in the flesh, err, aluminum. You can share in-person stories with a bunch of us afflicted with the same peculiar form of mental illness.
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Old 06-20-2019, 07:48 PM   #332
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Do you mean metal illness, like aluminum? David
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Old 06-20-2019, 09:31 PM   #333
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Aluminiumitis is the term you are looking for...[emoji39]
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Old 06-20-2019, 11:11 PM   #334
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Made some progress on the bathroom vanity. The counter top has been finished with 7 coats of Waterlox. Two 18x22x6 full extension drawers sit below the countertop on the left. The bottom door below the drawers provides access to the water heater and I believe it could be replaced via this access door (if needed).

Functionally, the sliding doors on the right work well but aesthetically I’m not sold on my design. We’ll store towels, shampoo, and toilet paper in the upper shelf. The lower area will house cleaning supplies. I’ll use these sliding doors for a while and redo it if I feel compelled at some point later. For now, as David says: “good enough”.

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One conundrum that I believe has been resolved was where to stow/dry bath towels. I mounted a 4 towel rack above and left of the vanity counter top. I’ve heard Turkish towels work well and dry fast. So long as they are shorter than 54” they should fit on the lowest rack without touching the countertop. The rack rods swivel outward to promote airflow and access.

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I’ll tackle the remaining plumbing next, now that the vanity structure is completed. Following that it is time to give serious thought to the design of the shower. This one has been perplexing me.
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Old 06-21-2019, 06:27 PM   #335
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You should be an Airstream interior designer. The bath vanity looks terrific.

I wonder how high the vanity is. I located mine under the rear window and it was only 29" high. Okay for short people I guess. My Overlander came from the factory under the rear window. Having the vanity in the corner is a good idea. '

David
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Old 06-22-2019, 07:53 AM   #336
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Thanks, David. The bathroom vanity is 34” tall. Seems like a trend in new house construction is to build them around this height.
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Old 06-25-2019, 04:29 AM   #337
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Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

With exception of the hot/cold supply lines for the shower (to be spliced in after the shower is built) I’ve completed the installation of the cold and hot water supply lines inside the trailer using PEX tubing, brass barbed fittings (specific for PEX), and copper crimp rings. All the ABS drain lines and tank vents have been completed as well. Time to check for leaks!

FWIW, I found this schematic online useful when planning:

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The final steps i needed to complete involved installing the stainless steel city water inlet (sourced from Vintage Trailer Supply) on the side of the trailer. This required drilling a 1” hole through the trailer skin. This specific inlet has a small notch to ensure the cap retaining chain is oriented downward. I made this notch with a hacksaw blade. A generous amount of Trempro 635 was used to seal the inlet and three stainless steel screws hold it in place. I was very glad I previously installed a section of 3/4 exterior grade plywood between the outer and inner skins in this area for the screws. This allowed all the inlets (cable/RG6, shore power, and city water) to be mounted securely.

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Inside the trailer I installed an inline back-flow valve (which I believe is a code requirement and threads into the back of the inlet), a common house sediment filter (easy to source replacement filters in any town with a hardware store), and the rear low point drain which was spliced into the main supply line using a T PEX fitting, ball valve, 90 degree PEX fitting, 8” of PEX tubing that passes through the trailer frame, and a rubber grommet where the PEX exits the belly pan.

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When installing the PEX lines I was careful to keep them the flush with the floor of the trailer (avoiding high points that would trap water during the winter). I’ll use a “male garden hose thread to quick connect air compressor fitting” on the city water inlet to blow out the lines when I winterize the plumbing lines with compressed air. What PSI do you all use (40-50 psi)?

Previously, I installed Camco’s antifreeze pickup valve (on the suction side of the water pump) to fill the lines with antifreeze. My water heater (Atwood XT) already came with a bypass valve that separates the 6 gallon tank from the lines. I’ll simply need to remember to drain the tank (and the inline filter) in the fall.

Back to the plumbing installation... After the low point drain, the blue city water inlet line was “Tee’d” into the main PEX supply lines in the trailer with the curved red/blue lines (pictured below) supplying water fore of this point (to the galley sink, street side outdoor shower, and freshwater tank) and the back left PEX line heading aft (to the indoor shower, toilet, bathroom vanity sink, and the water heater).

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Quarter turn valves terminated the PEX lines at all of these locations. Braided hoses connect the supply line to the fixtures (faucets, shower valves, etc).

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I constructed a “no-tool required“ removable box (that will be painted white) to conceal the lower pantry area and prevent anything from bumping into the connections and drain valves but permit filter changes en route. All supply lines were secured to the floor using half talon clamps nailed to the subfloor to prevent them from moving/chafing.

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I previously installed a low point drain up front by the 60 gallon freshwater tank and 12VDC water pump. I would think two drains is sufficient. Please let me know otherwise.

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From the campground hose spigot I will use a valved Y adapter to prevent the hose from kinking (this Y also allows hand washing at the campground post without needing to disconnect the hose), a 40-50 psi pressure regulator, an Apex brand “Zero-G” 50’ hose, and a 90 degree elbow at trailer inlet to prevent the hose from kinking and minimize strain at this connection point.

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Old 06-25-2019, 06:34 AM   #338
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Great job Brian! Always impressed by your work.
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Old 06-25-2019, 10:25 AM   #339
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Thanks, Tim!

Don't be too impressed. I was reviewing the schematic one last time and realized that I don't have my hot water supply line connected to the low point drains. Ack! Time to break out the PEX tools again...

Since the layout of my hot water supply line is on the far side of both low point drains in the floor (i.e. I'd have to route the hot line over the top of the cold line to reach it), I'll simply bridge the hot water supply line to the cold water supply line using two ball valves (fore and aft). This keeps the hot/cold lines at the same level (encouraging nearly complete drainage). When I'm draining the cold water line, I'll open these "bridging" ball valves thereby connecting the two lines together and permitting drainage of both lines at the same time. This will avoid drilling more holes in the floor and belly pan (for separate hot water line low point drains).
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Old 06-26-2019, 07:53 PM   #340
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Very neat plumbing job. I was not careful with my PEX runs and don't have low point drains. I just ran the PEX where I needed it, up to here, down to there. I blow out the lines hot and cold with 40 psi air, and then fill them with RV antifreeze. Seems to work ok. I bypass the water heater and drain it too, including the lower third of the tank the drain plug doesn't reach.

David
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