Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

[Atomic_13]

Waterlox is going on the countertop sans complications. Got coat two of three on this evening. The countertop should be ready for it’s final install this weekend.





Waterlox has two issues: 1) it’s expensive and 2) once the can is opened, air can react with the surface and leave a skin on the surface which can get suspended in the finish. Some fill the partial used containers with glass marbles to displace air. I learned about a new product I wanted to share. It’s called Bloxygen (which is an argon gas product).



Argon is 25% heavier than oxygen. When sprayed into your container it pushes the oxygen or moisture up and out, sealing the contents with a heavy blanket of stable gas. Pretty nifty.

Lastly, while I had the fridge out for the countertop work I cut the floor vent and hopefully got it mouse and ant proof.

[rasmuw]

In the chemical industry in the 80's, we used to cover the urethanes with nitrogen. While not heavier than air, I think it accomplished the same objective at a lower cost.

What did you use for the floor vent that wasn't 1/4" screen?

[Atomic_13]

Wayne, I sandwiched aluminum window screen between two pieces of expanded metal lath (used in house stucco installation).

Once cutting the 9”x9” square in the subfloor I drilled two 3” holes in the belly pan below.

I install the three-layer screen on top of the belly pan first by running a bead of Trempro 635 on the belly pan surface (to seal, adhere, minimize galvanic corrosion between the steel lath and aluminum belly pan). I bedded the three-layer metal screen in the caulking bead, then riveted the three-layer metal to the belly pan. The rivets were 3/16 shank diameter, 3/8” shank length, 5/8” flange diameter and are available at Vintage Trailer Supply.

To install the upper screen I ran a bead of Trempro 635 on the cleaned subfloor wood surface, bedded three-layer metal screen in a caulking bead, then stapled and screwed (using 5/8 nylon washers) the metal layers to the subfloor.

Technically, I could have vented my non-propane isotherm fridge inside but I wanted to avoid adding heat to the trailer’s interior during the summer. I’ve been meticulous about minimizing rodent/insect/water access points. I considered replacing the solid panel in the access door with louvered metal but the supplies to my chosen approach were readily available. I intend to rivet some small drip caps in front of (fore) the 3” belly pan holes to minimize water from the road from entering them, but this might not be necessary...

[dbj216]

The counter top looks fabulous. Nothing but the best for your Trade Wind.

We were laughing in one of these threads about all the nasty stuff a guy might to to his trailer galley counter top. For example: clean fish, pack wheel bearings, test paint colors, clean out the clogged sink trap, change the baby, pick ticks off the dog, etc, etc.

You will do these things in style.

David

[Slats]

Originally Posted by Atomic_13

David, regarding the tools used
Power Probe MT Micro Torch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P6WMKK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Produces a very small flame that is faster than a heat gun for the shrink tube but use with caution and don’t catch you trailer on fire! Can also be used for soldering.

I found a micro torch while cleaning out our pantry at home in preparation for painting it. We had long ago purchased this nifty tool for carmelizing creme brulee, but had never gotten around to using it, so I appropriated it for my Airstream tool kit. I think we got it at Williams Sonoma.

[Atomic_13]

Ended up applying six coats of Waterlox (tung oil) to the walnut countertop. I wasn’t expecting a professional finish but ended up being sufficiently impressed with the product. After it cured, I installed the IKEA bar sink and faucet referenced earlier as well as the Ramblewood GC2-43P two-burner cooktop.





Next up are the cabinet doors made from components of “Maid-Rite” washboards and some beautiful Peruvian walnut I sourced (Juglans neotropica, aka nogal). It’s often clearer with fewer defects than its North American cousin, black walnut. It should be perfect for the rails and stiles of the cabinet doors.

[rmkrum]

The finish has some superb depth and shine to it. Really looks nice!
An occasional light scrub with a fine (usually white) Scotchbrite pad and a light coat of Waterlox will maintain the shine and durability. Really looks super!

[ttbikes]

Looks great Brian!

[Slats]

Envy being one of the seven deadly sins, your counter top is leading me into some major league sin.

[rmkrum]

X2 or more!

[Atomic_13]

I jointed and ripped the 4/4 Peruvian walnut down to size for the galley doors and dry fitted the washboard components into the door. Please weigh in regarding what should fill the lower opening below the metal washboard surface? Plane a 1/4 panel of walnut? Lexan with grain or dried hops secured behind it? Lots of options... need some ideas.

[DavidsonOverlander]

Originally Posted by Atomic_13

I jointed and ripped the 4/4 Peruvian walnut down to size for the galley doors and dry fitted the washboard components into the door. Please weigh in regarding what should fill the lower opening below the metal washboard surface? Plane a 1/4 panel of walnut? Lexan with grain or dried hops secured behind it? Lots of options... need some ideas.

Attachment 326524

How about a walnut panel with ripples routered (routed?) into it to match the pattern in the washboard?

[Venturewest]

Brian, I have finally taken the time to read through most of your thread. I am absolutely in awe of your Airstream. I knew you had started with a new frame, but I never realized the level of detail you put into every aspect of the renovation. I guess I also never realized that our Tradewinds were almost identical to start with. Your Tradewind is stunning in every way. You are an artist and a craftsman. The thought and consideration you put into every detail is more than evident. If there is another Airstream nicer than this one, anywhere, I would love to see it. I look forward to gleaning as much info as I can from your thread as I progress through some of the same procedures.

The time you put into this thread is noted and appreciated. You have taken much time to thoroughly document the process. Your writing is outstanding.

Do you have any of your original interior parts still laying around? I am looking for the original sink.

Thanks! Ron

[Hittenstiehl]

Atomic can you describe a little bit better where that is going and what its purpose is going to be at sounds to me like it's a cabinet door.

PS that Dickinson against the white cabinets and those dark counters is out-of-this-world gorgeous I concur with the comments of envy I am on a second sin now, that's lust.

[Atomic_13]

Thanks, all.

Hittenstiehl, it will indeed be a door below the kitchen countertop. Four in total separated by a column of drawers (two doors on each side).

Ron, I unfortunately no longer have the original sink.

[Venturewest]

Originally Posted by Atomic_13

I jointed and ripped the 4/4 Peruvian walnut down to size for the galley doors and dry fitted the washboard components into the door. Please weigh in regarding what should fill the lower opening below the metal washboard surface? Plane a 1/4 panel of walnut? Lexan with grain or dried hops secured behind it? Lots of options... need some ideas.

Attachment 326524

I think a panel of walnut would be fitting so as not to complete with washboard.
It would be really neat to incorporate a fly box somewhere though, perhaps behind lexan in a different location.

[Atomic_13]

Another idea I had was to use rice paper sandwiched between two sheets of Lexan. Think of a shoji screen (Japanese room divider). I've seen some really cool watercolor applied to rice paper. Perhaps I could paint four simple watercolor pieces that capture elements of prior backcountry trips (think streams, aspens, trout, mountains, etc). I would want to keep them subtle. It would be easy to backlight these four panels with dimmable LEDs which could light the path to the bathroom at night. During the day, they wouldn't be all that noticeable and would create the open space typically seen between the legs of washboards but still hide the cabinet contents.

[ALUMINUMINUM]

Originally Posted by Atomic_13

Another idea I had was to use rice paper sandwiched between two sheets of Lexan. Think of a shoji screen (Japanese room divider). I've seen some really cool watercolor applied to rice paper. Perhaps I could paint four simple watercolor pieces that capture elements of prior backcountry trips (think streams, aspens, trout, mountains, etc). I would want to keep them subtle. It would be easy to backlight these four panels with dimmable LEDs which could light the path to the bathroom at night. During the day, they wouldn't be all that noticeable and would create the open space typically seen between the legs of washboards but still hide the cabinet contents.

I'm in agreement with this idea. I do think it is important not to distract from the washboard's character, so a light colored, benign, panel of wood, paper (Shogi), cloth (Pendleton), tin (punched or not).

I thought punched tin (old pie safe), but that might be too competitive with washboard. It would be fun to punch tin... There's really nice scraps of Pendleton fabric on eBay. I consider cloth, because that's what washboards do...

Outdoor rated plasticized Shoji paper is probably strong enough by itself and has a nice translucency, It's plain or patterned, if you can settle for someone else's Art. My Shoji screen pocket door has survived a lot of "touching and poking admiration". It has held up way better than expected. There is a special tape to install. In Japan, Shoji paper is seasonally repaired.

If you can resist over-powering the washboard theme with your own rice paper artwork, the rice paper theme could shade lighting elsewhere and tie the lighting together.


Lookin' GOOD!!

[Atomic_13]

Aluminumum - that is some impressive handiwork. I really like the backlighting on the bathroom door. Thanks for the continued support and input.

After much consideration, I opted to apply chalkboard contact paper to the front lower door panels and some frosted window plastic (river stones) behind the panels. We’ll add some modest chalk silhouettes of aspen and pine trees to the four chalk boards. Perhaps our kids can change the chalk artwork to capture the spirit of our upcoming trips.

The lower stiles will be removable to we can modify the lower panel as our preferences shift.

[dbj216]

Wow! What a unique cabinet door. Beautiful. And the chalk board lower panel is a great idea. You should become an Airstream interior design consultant!

David