Atomic's 1968 Tradewind Twin Renovation

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by Atomic_13

I wrapped up the installation of the bulkheads that make the pocket for the pocket door. My good friend and fly fishing partner, Eric, made the door, including hand carving the trout. He used wood from his family’s barn that was built in 1889. As you can tell he’s a craftsman and good friend.

Attachment 309216

Attachment 309219

Attachment 309217

We reused the original header, sliding track, rollers, and door pull. When reinstalling the door, we made certain the track was true in all directions (it required truing and shimming to make it straight). A homemade table saw taper jig makes perfect uniquely tapered shims. Prior to the installing the rear most bulkhead, a 3/4”x 5’ board was secured on edge to prevent the door from sliding off the track too far back in the pocket. The outer door edge (side with the door pull) now stops just slightly recessed in the pocket when closed.

Attachment 309218

During the install we measured the distance between the floor and track edge on both ends and adjusted the header to ensure this distance was equal. This made the track level with the floor. If the trailer is level side-to-side, the door will not slide on its own. The last step is to install Teflon sliders to prevent the door from rubbing on the bulkhead walls (which are painted white). Eric is working on a custom latch (using braided fly fishing line) to keep the door secured closed en route. The next step is to determine the location of the curbside bulkhead so the door has something flat to close against. I’ll install a rare earth magnet here to keep the door shut if the trailer isn’t level.

I also insulated the fender wells using 1” thick polyisocyanurate foam board. I constructed wood boxes with 1/2 plywood to cover them. These are dimensioned such that they’ll be used as a lower shelve in the street side galley cabinet or part of couch/bed on the curb side. Pink insulation filled the remain airspace above the foam but below the box. The should provide an insulation r value of 8-10 below the bed.

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Atomic _13

Your friend really is a craftsman. That is a beautiful door!

Dan

[ttbikes]

"Regarding the flooring choice, the pros are:
- durable (20 mil coating)
- waterproof
- dimensionally stable (at least more so than many flooring options)
- can be swept/wiped clean
- easy to work with/install (no underlayment needed)
- provides some insulation and sound dampening
- looks nice

The cons are:
- pricey ($4.5/ft2)
- thick (6mm, not an issue for me since I installed this wall to wall - leaving a 1/4” gap on the perimeter)
- heavy (1.5#/ft2)"

I used LVT and have not had a problem with expansion and contraction. I think it takes prolonged sun contact in one place to be a real problem and that does not happen in my trailer. The few places where I had to put a screw in I did the same as you. Mounting something heavy over it might be a problem. I ran it up to cabinet edges leaving a 1/4 gap and picked it up on the other side leaving the same gap.

[Atomic_13]

I wrapped up the pantry, built the box for the side-by-side fridge/freezer (Isotherm Cruze 200 12VDC/110VAC, Danfoss compressor), and installed the closet flange and toilet this weekend.



Once the fridge is installed I’ll span the area between the pantry and fridge to complete the galley. The sink (IKEA 21”x17”), faucet (?), and cooktop (Ramblewood GC2-43P) will be installed here.

Lots of options for galley counter tops (Formica, cork, wood, copper sheet, etc). I have access to the equipment to glue up a thin (103”x28”x1”) butcher block. Alternating maple with walnut treated with food safe (mineral or danish) oil would really look nice. Likely on the heavy side (100#s?) but it would be over the axles. Crazy idea?



I found a perfect sized stock tank for a shower pan. I still need to build a riser box, install a drain, and a Hepvo waterless gas trap. It’s exterior will be enclosed in cedar. Still thinking through how divert water into the pan and not on the pocket door wall. Corrugated metal/plastic?

[Atomic_13]

Quick calculations indicate the butcher block would weigh ~95 lbs and a particleboard/Formica top would weigh ~65 lbs. Leaning towards walnut sapwood which would carry the striated floor pattern to the countertop.

My brother owns a millwork business. He has several 6 head moulders, large glue/clamp stations, and a 50 inch wide belt sander. This should make short work of the project.

[Atomic_13]

Example here:

[dbj216]

Hey, a stock tank for a tub. Just like the cowboys used to use. I assume it is a plastic molded tank.

I wonder. What if you trimmed the top lip off on the two sides of the tank that fit up to the wall so the tank is close to the wall. And then you fabricated a shower wall from a piece of FRP plastic and let it overlap into the tank. The FRP is glued to the walls, and the overlap area could be fastened to the tank. The tank will be boxed in so it isn't going any place.

The shower plan I got for my Trade Wind had a lip around three sides of it where I could overlap the FRP shower wall. I believe I just used shower calking to hold it in place.

Actually the bathtub in my Overlander is close to a stock tank, and it is used as a shower pan. I'm keeping it in the trailer. I did paint it "toilet white". So it looks like everyone else's tub.

David

[ALUMINUMINUM]

Airstream's '67/'68 bath design, placing the tub perpendicular to the trailer center-line allows a six-footer to shower with a few fingers of head-room. Your plastic tank achieves the same. A coopered looking tub surround would suit the Manly theme.

I read earlier that you consider exposed, on-wall, copper plumbing. Google Images shows hundreds of “Clawfoot Tub Curtain”,the common solution to an oval tub.

https://www.google.com/search?q=claw...w=1152&bih=750

Picture below is an odd example of sweated copper taken from that search, most are commercial chrome. Suspended or supported 1” K copper should bend easily, might even incorporate the shower head. There's stainless waterpipe.

I made a curtain rod from 1” stainless boat-rail. It was easy to fit to trailer's compound curvature and bulk-head with common nautical rail components.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...on-147648.html

Sounds like wood is your plan. Your friend's work is tempting, Is he making your cabinets? Most will agree with the romance and beauty of oiled wood, but considering functional reality, wood countertops would be too much responsibility for me.

Stainless steel would be my practical counter-top, impervious to Manly activities like rebuilding carburetors, dressing wounds, soldering, fish reel repair, cleaning weapons, chemical solvents, animal fluids, dry ice, hot pans, adhesives... Wood takes care, stainless survives mindlessness.

The story would be that it's a re-purposed autopsy table.


.

[dbj216]

Aluminuminum: Your description of "manly" activities on a stainless steel countertop is superb! I might add that packing trailer wheel bearings is easier on a stainless countertop versus a wood one.

David

[Atomic_13]

After a busy summer of being mostly on the road or at work, I took a week off to make some progress on the TradeWind.

But before diving into an update regarding the renovation, I’m pretty excited about my new tow vehicle. We have a new driver in the family, so our vehicles needed passed down the line. This was a perfect opportunity to pass on my Tacoma to my son and upgrade to a more substantial truck designed for towing. My Tacoma would have struggled in the Rockies, which is where we’ll spend a lot of time with the Airstream. After much research and consideration, I found a sweet deal on a 2019 F250 (Lariat, CrewCab, 4x4, 6.7L Power Stroke). I looked long and hard at F150s but with all the extra people and associated adventure gear we plan to bring along, the payload on the F150s ended up being a deal breaker for me. Boy, how things have changed since I last purchased a truck in 2009 (technology, features, and their costs have skyrocketed).



I started the past week installing LED dome and reading lights. I sourced these from Vintage Trailer Supply and am really happy with the them. I can tell you it felt pretty good when I flipped the switches and all worked as planned. I also installed a switch bank near the door that turns on the LED scare light, an LED light that shines from under the trailer on topp of the the step, and the third switch delivers power to the exterior LED running lights (for rally’s). I’m hopefully by making the trailer completely LED, I’ll minimize power consumption.




Here is some handy tools for the above job:



Following the lighting, I replaced my fantastic fan since it was leaking. The old shell was cracked by the tapered head screws so I used stainless machine screws with washers this go around.



I decided against a forced air furnace for the trailer and instead installed a Dickinson P12000 LP stove. These are designed for sailboats and the reviews online are quite favorable. I’m optimistic it will sufficiently heat the trailer and really appreciate that all the combustion is isolated outside of the trailer so water vapor doesn’t lead to concentration on cold mornings. I also purchased a Olympian Catalytic Heater - Wave 6 for the bathroom. It still needs installed but on very cold nights we could crack a window and run this in addition to the Dickinson.





Lastly, I installed a Isotherm Cruise 200 freezer/fridge. I still need to cut a hole in the subfloor to vent the area behind the fridge. I’m not all that excited to provide an access point for ants, etc. I’ll have to read up on methods to allow cool air to enter behind the fridge to cool off the compressor. Perhaps I should louver the access panel instead.



Next up is to install the catalytic heater in the rear bathroom, the walnut butcher block top for the galley, and then the sink and cooktop will be on deck.

[Atomic_13]

Here is how the heater attaches to the cabinet.



I placed the heater on an angled wall which for my layout and heater location had several benefits:

1) Improved firebox window viewing.
2) Improved the flow of heated air by placing the heater closer to the trailer center, rather than wedged on the wall between the deep refrigerator box and the dinette.
3) Created a void between the heater and the refrigerator which will be insulated. Evidently these heaters don’t warm the rear wall all that bad but it can’t hurt to minimize heat transfer to the refrigerator.
4) Provided a bit more clearance for those entering the street side dinette seat.

This boxed area will be capped with a residual section of the walnut counter top but will sit 2” lower than the galley counter top. I’m installing a school bus fan on this small counter top section to move heated air from here to the rest of the trailer. The sidewall has a removable panel to allow access to the various 12VDC and AV cables that exit the wall in this location.

P.S. My apologies for the atrocious grammar of my prior post. I shouldn’t write late at night after a hard week of physical labor.

[TouringDan]

Definitely a very unique installation of your heater and fridge. I hope that it works as well as it looks, cuz it looks fantastic!

Dan

[dbj216]

Welcome back on the Trade Wind job. You are inspiring me to get back at the Overlander. Your "appliances" are certainly high tech and different from the standard RV fare that I use.

Congratulations on your new Super Duty. We got one 5 years ago and it has performed very well with no defects or problems noted. We tow the wife's 34' Limited (8000 lbs) up and down Colorado mountain crossings with no problems. It is about 30% more efficient than our former V10 gas van. Your new truck is a significant upgrade over our 2013.

I did not recognize the tools you bought for your LED installation. Can you elaborate a bit for me.

David

[Atomic_13]

David, regarding the tools used, I’m using heat shrink marine crimp connectors on my 12VDC wires to stabilize the connections for bumpy rides. As you know, this trailer will see some use on unpaved roads to access fly fishing spots and for boondocking.

These connectors require just the right amount of crimping power and then an application of heat. Once heat is applied to the connector it shrinks, activates an air/waterproof sealant, and adheres the wire to the connector. It makes for a excellent, long lasting connection superior to wire nuts or soldering. Here are the tools used:





Wirefy Heat Shrink Wire Connectors - Electrical Terminals Kit - Marine Automotive Crimp Connector Assortment
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07124B886..._AQ1SBbZE30SRR

HydraLink Sealed Multiple Wire Closed End and In-Line Butt Connectors
https://www.cableorganizer.com/hydra...re-connectors/

Step Down Butt Splices
https://www.cableorganizer.com/step-...ce-connectors/

Klein Tools 11063W Wire Cutter and Stripper, for 8-20 AWG Solid and 10-22 AWG Stranded Electrical Wire
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BC39YFQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

A speedy wire stripper the cuts the wire and strips the insulated jacket in one simple squeeze.

Titan Tools 11950 Ratcheting Wire Terminal Crimping Set
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N43O0UJ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This set allows the proper crimp to be applied to most solderless terminals, including insulated, closed end, heat shrink, and spark plug terminals. The ratcheting crimper minimizes over-crimping a connector. The array of crimping dies included in this set make it possible to select the correct die for the style of terminal.

Power Probe MT Micro Torch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P6WMKK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Produces a very small flame that is faster than a heat gun for the shrink tube but use with caution and don’t catch you trailer on fire! Can also be used for soldering.

[Bubba L]

Didn’t realize they had step down butt splices. Will be ordering today. Thanks for the information. The proper crimps, heat shrink, etc is the way to go. Thanks for the posts. Good luck, Bubba

[ttbikes]

Thanks for the post. Been wondering about those connectors

[dbj216]

Thanks for the tool descriptions. I've been doing it the old way with crimp butt connectors and electrical tape. Not near as good as yours.

David

[Atomic_13]

I enjoyed my first longer distance tow of the TradeWind with my F250. It towed great and was smooth sailing.



The trip was to visit my brothers at his shop. He helped me make and install the walnut countertops. We glued up 5/4 walnut and passed it through a wide belt sander until it was 1.125” thick. Following that we used his 4’x8’ CNC router to cut it to 28” deep by 104” long and radius and bullnose the exposed corners/edges.



Triangular cleats we used to attach the countertop to poplar wall mounting supports that were secured to the inner skins/cabinetry. To allow for wood expansion and contraction with fluctuations in relative humidity I drilled oversized holes in the mounting cleats. Screws and washers were used to secure the countertop through the cleats. As the wood changes size the oversized holes will allow for countertop movement.



Now that the countertop is secured I’ll dissemble them and treat all sides with multiple coats of mineral oil and beeswax. I’m still thinking about finish options so if you have other suggestions please feel free to weigh in. I want something that I can reapply if the tops get scratched, etc.



The finish will hopefully darken the walnut to more closely match the floor.

[Hittenstiehl]

You are doing really incredible work.

We have saved several of your pictures. Really appreciated the hints on fastening the electrical. They say it's an earthquake on wheels as it goes down the road so why have a wire nut come loose behind a wall from all the vibrations.

Were loving seeing the Dickinson heater. I remember first seeing that on the " first she had to take a boat ride thread" and have been enamored with it since. You did a really nice job with your roof stack.

That wooden kitchen counter look very nice and such a nice work space. Maybe just some tongue (sp) oil would do it.

[rasmuw]

For the butcher block island we installed in our home, Boos Oil (with beeswax) was recommended. Make sure that whatever you use that it is food grade.

[steinVT]

For our restoration we decided to go Retro, but if I do another, I think I would look a lot like yours. It is very clean and sleek. You do very nice work.

And I think I need to talk to my brother about upgrading his shop.

Mark